Drive shaft vibration
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Drive shaft vibration
I read in here that universal u-bolts should only be torqued to 15-20 lbs and since I over tightened mine and I have a vibration at 42mph I decided to change them.
The universals that were in there were "spicer" with out zerks and were almost dry.
I have also read that the driveshaft is supposed to be put back in the same allignment. Why does this matter when it's not put in in any specific way at the factory ? And what if you were replacing it with new shaft ?
This is what it looks like when I have to much time on my hands
The universals that were in there were "spicer" with out zerks and were almost dry.
I have also read that the driveshaft is supposed to be put back in the same allignment. Why does this matter when it's not put in in any specific way at the factory ? And what if you were replacing it with new shaft ?
This is what it looks like when I have to much time on my hands
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Southern Oregon USA
What is meant by alignment is the yoke time or phasing. You want the yokes to be installed at the same clocking. Notice how the yoke on the slip joint is installed the same as the weld on yoke at the rear end? It also applies to the carrier bearing yoke and the yoke at the transmission. It is also important to mark the driveline and removeable yokes/ slip joints if you ever take them apart. You can create driveline vibrations by having them 180* out of time, as the driveline is balanced as an assembly.
Hope that makes sense,
Jason
Hope that makes sense,
Jason
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So by what your saying this short shaft is out 45 degrees. But it seems like it had a missing toothe like the steering wheels and could only be put on one way.
<a href="http://s262.photobucket.com/albums/ii99/mfix78/?action=view¤t=ds001.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii99/mfix78/ds001.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s262.photobucket.com/albums/ii99/mfix78/?action=view¤t=ds001.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii99/mfix78/ds001.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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Rcrawler, you were right about the spline. Either I did it or PO did it. I have a tendancy to mark and reinstall the way it was.
Does it look right now or do I have it 90 degrees out?
And I do appreciate all the help and information
Does it look right now or do I have it 90 degrees out?
And I do appreciate all the help and information
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: arkadelphia, ar
So am I correct, every yoke needs to be at a 90 degree to the one before it? If there is still vibration, it could be 180 off.
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From: Southern Oregon USA
Originally Posted by ramarado
So am I correct, every yoke needs to be at a 90 degree to the one before it? If there is still vibration, it could be 180 off.
The last picture is a good example of what the right way looks like. Basically, you want both yokes on each driveline section to be clocked in the same location.
Jason
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From: Eldorado Ca. USA
[re-edited] have there been some picture changes going on?? the first pic I thought was way off, now it looks right? It must be saturday night, and I must be a looser for being up on the PC, instead of in bed snuggling with the little woman....
The first pic looks fine to me
Either way, it has been my experience that if you look very closely around the end of the slip yoke, you will see a tiny arrow stamped into the metal. On the tube of the driveshaft, right before the weld, or on the shaft of the spline, there will be another arrow. They need to point at each other. If you have to, strip the paint off of it to find them. They are balanced(or should have been) and installing it wrong will throw it off. That is what the washer welded to the tube is for, assuming you have one.
The first pic looks fine to me
Either way, it has been my experience that if you look very closely around the end of the slip yoke, you will see a tiny arrow stamped into the metal. On the tube of the driveshaft, right before the weld, or on the shaft of the spline, there will be another arrow. They need to point at each other. If you have to, strip the paint off of it to find them. They are balanced(or should have been) and installing it wrong will throw it off. That is what the washer welded to the tube is for, assuming you have one.
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From: Southern Oregon USA
The first picture was an optical illusion to me. It looks fine to me. But the longer I stared at it, it almost looked a spline off.
The second picture was obvious.
I don't know if I would go as far as calling you a loser for being up staring at a driveline instead of cuddling with your woman, but... I'll let it go at that. Cause I'm sitting here too.
I have an excuse tho. My wife has the flu, and I'm going no where near that.
Jason
The second picture was obvious.
I don't know if I would go as far as calling you a loser for being up staring at a driveline instead of cuddling with your woman, but... I'll let it go at that. Cause I'm sitting here too.
I have an excuse tho. My wife has the flu, and I'm going no where near that.Jason
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Driveshaft vibration?
Y'all know of course that a two piece driveshaft (like the one pictured) has a center support.
Inside that support is a sealed bearing...also called a carrier bearing.
When that bearing wears, you'll get a driveline vibration.
D9TZ-4800-A .. Driveshaft Center Support Kit ~ Comes with the bearing, the rubber support, bracket and shims.
Fits all the F100/150's (1953/96) and most of the F250's.
The bearings inside diameter is 1.37"
This kit is available from Ford, and autoparts stores.
Y'all know of course that a two piece driveshaft (like the one pictured) has a center support.
Inside that support is a sealed bearing...also called a carrier bearing.
When that bearing wears, you'll get a driveline vibration.
D9TZ-4800-A .. Driveshaft Center Support Kit ~ Comes with the bearing, the rubber support, bracket and shims.
Fits all the F100/150's (1953/96) and most of the F250's.
The bearings inside diameter is 1.37"
This kit is available from Ford, and autoparts stores.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Terre Haute, Indiana
An old timer that I used to work for 25 years ago would build a driveshaft and if it had vibration he would drill a small hole in the tube and pour 1/2 to 3/4 quart of tranny fluid in the driveshaft and weld the hole shut and grind it smooth.
He told me that the centrifugal force would use the fluid to balance it.
Pretty crude I thought.
He told me that the centrifugal force would use the fluid to balance it.
Pretty crude I thought.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Eldorado Ca. USA
That concept is how folks balance large tires. Add a pound of equal(not the sugar substitiute) add a dozen or so golf *****, or steel shot. All that will magically balance your tires, so why would it not magically balance a driveshaft. Today it would cost you about $50-200 to balance a driveshaft on a fancy machine. In yesteryear, it would cost $10 in labor to do the mod you mentioned. The old tips and tricks are being forgotten by the dozen, todays mechanics dont have the kind of common sense and knowledge of yesterdays mechanics.