Hard Cold Start
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 68
Likes: 1
From: Washington
Hard Cold Start
Hello,
Still running that 2001 F350 with the V10. Recently, I have been experiencing a hard time starting a cold engine.
Engine will turn over but will not start. Only after depressing the gas pedal, will the engine start.
Over the course of a year, the fuel filter, battery, plugs, and air filter were change. The MAF sensor was cleaned a couple months ago.
It's gotta go in here next month for the CC recall.
Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Still running that 2001 F350 with the V10. Recently, I have been experiencing a hard time starting a cold engine.
Engine will turn over but will not start. Only after depressing the gas pedal, will the engine start.
Over the course of a year, the fuel filter, battery, plugs, and air filter were change. The MAF sensor was cleaned a couple months ago.
It's gotta go in here next month for the CC recall.
Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,844
Likes: 6
From: Albuquerque
Could be an IAC (idle air control) issue. This is what replaced the choke on carb engines. It could be cleaned due to carbon build-up...or just replaced. Not a very expensive part. TIP: Make sure to have an extra gasket in place...just in case the current one tears. IMO...it should be replaced...if the IAC is removed.
Here is a link in my gallery for a step-by-step removal and install. Plus part numbers if needed.
ON EDIT: Opps forgot to add the link...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=22274
Hope this helps...
biz
Here is a link in my gallery for a step-by-step removal and install. Plus part numbers if needed.
ON EDIT: Opps forgot to add the link...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=22274
Hope this helps...
biz
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,844
Likes: 6
From: Albuquerque
Absolutely! Make sure to report back on the fix...so it might help the next FTE person with the same issue.biz
Trending Topics
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 140
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by biz4two
Could be an IAC (idle air control) issue. This is what replaced the choke on carb engines. It could be cleaned due to carbon build-up...or just replaced. Not a very expensive part. TIP: Make sure to have an extra gasket in place...just in case the current one tears. IMO...it should be replaced...if the IAC is removed.
Here is a link in my gallery for a step-by-step removal and install. Plus part numbers if needed.
ON EDIT: Opps forgot to add the link...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=22274
Hope this helps...
biz
Here is a link in my gallery for a step-by-step removal and install. Plus part numbers if needed.
ON EDIT: Opps forgot to add the link...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=22274
Hope this helps...
biz
I had the same symtoms, changed the valve and all is good, seems to idle smoother too. I was going to do it myself but it was a tough reach at a tough angle for me so I paid my mechanic to do it. 1 hour labor for a part that goes bad every 100k miles is ok with me.
George
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 68
Likes: 1
From: Washington
***UPDATE***
Called FORD Parts and they wanted $99 for the part.
Figure I just would clean it, just to see if all it needed was a good scrub. Made sure I had some gasket material in the garage.
Some notes:
The same 8mm wrench used to removed the battery connections also remove the two
bolts holding the valve on.
Took some carburetor spray and cleaned out the valve real good and used a popsicle stick to remove additional gunk from within the cavity.
Was careful to tighten the two bolts holding the aluminum valve back into the plastic intake housing.
Total time was 35 mintues. I have one of those steps that affix to the tire to work on the engine. A Godsend for changing plugs and this job as well.
Ran the truck for ten miles on the highway to reset the fuel injection. Smooth idle.
This morning, tried starting the truck and it fired right up.... very SWEET!
Was getting nearly 12mpg in mixed driving. We'll see what it'll do now.
Thanks again Biz!
Called FORD Parts and they wanted $99 for the part.
Figure I just would clean it, just to see if all it needed was a good scrub. Made sure I had some gasket material in the garage.
Some notes:
The same 8mm wrench used to removed the battery connections also remove the two
bolts holding the valve on.
Took some carburetor spray and cleaned out the valve real good and used a popsicle stick to remove additional gunk from within the cavity.
Was careful to tighten the two bolts holding the aluminum valve back into the plastic intake housing.
Total time was 35 mintues. I have one of those steps that affix to the tire to work on the engine. A Godsend for changing plugs and this job as well.
Ran the truck for ten miles on the highway to reset the fuel injection. Smooth idle.
This morning, tried starting the truck and it fired right up.... very SWEET!
Was getting nearly 12mpg in mixed driving. We'll see what it'll do now.
Thanks again Biz!
Success Story!
GREAT...glad it worked out for you. Also...appreciate reporting back on the fix.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mjpmn
1997 - 2006 Expedition & Navigator
7
Aug 10, 2008 05:50 PM
TinCocodrie
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
14
Jun 30, 2008 11:52 AM
user 5873080982
Modular V8 (4.6L, 5.4L)
5
Jan 21, 2004 07:03 PM