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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 11:32 PM
  #1  
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Shasta69
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Hard Cold Start

Hello,

Still running that 2001 F350 with the V10. Recently, I have been experiencing a hard time starting a cold engine.

Engine will turn over but will not start. Only after depressing the gas pedal, will the engine start.

Over the course of a year, the fuel filter, battery, plugs, and air filter were change. The MAF sensor was cleaned a couple months ago.


It's gotta go in here next month for the CC recall.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 12:50 AM
  #2  
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3000 FPS
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From: S CAL
The only thing that is moved with the throttle is the throttle position sensor. Does it idle smooth once started at one even RPM.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 08:06 AM
  #3  
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After the cold start, the engine runs and idles fine, like as if nothing has ever happened.

Hot starts are uneffected.

Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 03:05 PM
  #4  
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Anyone?

Still doing that same problem on cold mornings.

Warm mornings uneffected.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 03:24 PM
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Could be an IAC (idle air control) issue. This is what replaced the choke on carb engines. It could be cleaned due to carbon build-up...or just replaced. Not a very expensive part. TIP: Make sure to have an extra gasket in place...just in case the current one tears. IMO...it should be replaced...if the IAC is removed.

Here is a link in my gallery for a step-by-step removal and install. Plus part numbers if needed.

ON EDIT: Opps forgot to add the link...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=22274



Hope this helps...

biz
 
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 07:04 PM
  #6  
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Whoa Biz4two!

Thanks on what to look for AND the provided link and part number.

I have the next weekend off and will change this out.

Thanks for the assist. Makes sense.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 10:23 PM
  #7  
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Absolutely! Make sure to report back on the fix...so it might help the next FTE person with the same issue.


biz
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 10:35 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by biz4two
Could be an IAC (idle air control) issue. This is what replaced the choke on carb engines. It could be cleaned due to carbon build-up...or just replaced. Not a very expensive part. TIP: Make sure to have an extra gasket in place...just in case the current one tears. IMO...it should be replaced...if the IAC is removed.

Here is a link in my gallery for a step-by-step removal and install. Plus part numbers if needed.

ON EDIT: Opps forgot to add the link...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=22274



Hope this helps...

biz

I had the same symtoms, changed the valve and all is good, seems to idle smoother too. I was going to do it myself but it was a tough reach at a tough angle for me so I paid my mechanic to do it. 1 hour labor for a part that goes bad every 100k miles is ok with me.
George
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 10:48 AM
  #9  
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***UPDATE***
Called FORD Parts and they wanted $99 for the part.

Figure I just would clean it, just to see if all it needed was a good scrub. Made sure I had some gasket material in the garage.

Some notes:
The same 8mm wrench used to removed the battery connections also remove the two
bolts holding the valve on.

Took some carburetor spray and cleaned out the valve real good and used a popsicle stick to remove additional gunk from within the cavity.

Was careful to tighten the two bolts holding the aluminum valve back into the plastic intake housing.

Total time was 35 mintues. I have one of those steps that affix to the tire to work on the engine. A Godsend for changing plugs and this job as well.

Ran the truck for ten miles on the highway to reset the fuel injection. Smooth idle.

This morning, tried starting the truck and it fired right up.... very SWEET!

Was getting nearly 12mpg in mixed driving. We'll see what it'll do now.

Thanks again Biz!
 
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 10:01 PM
  #10  
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Thumbs up Success Story!

GREAT...glad it worked out for you. Also...appreciate reporting back on the fix.

Hope your mpg's go up too.


biz
 
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