Gallery Update
Comments and criticism welcome, as I pretty much built this chassis on "internet speak".
The next step will be to put in the radiator mounts and place it, then mock up the engine and tranny and add a few more crossmembers...one for the tranny mount and another behind that..to square up the chassis.
Chassis specs say I should be at 44 inches wide, but time and years had taken it's toll on the old '36...so a little squeezing here and a little spreading there is still needed
) I am, I modified a set of VW strut compressers I had to get the coilshocks together.So I've decided I'll leave the caliper and brackets off for now as well as the sway bar and rack and just mount the spindles and rotors so I can put some wheels on it and some weight to see what's up...everything has to come off for paint anyways, so no use putting too much together now.
I should be able to update my gallery later tonight with some pics of the partially complete frontend...it is kinda cool seeing it come together

So the CO's are in, etc, decided to go ahead and mount up the sway bar so I can get some holes drilled and tapped...may as well mount the calipers too...since it looks like it'll be easy to pull everything off with just a few bolts...might be a bit of cussing to put it back togther, but this way I won'nt lose any parts

Okay, beer break number two is over, time to get back to work!
Some time ago I read a guys recommendation regarding boxing. He suggested backsetting the plate a little to give a bit of rail for wires, lines etc. What are your thoughts about that?
on a '42-up, the frame is made much better and 1/8thinch should be fine...in fact I probably would have used 1/8thinch at the time, regardless of trying to make it stronger...but my plasma cutter was on the fritz and I had to use the torch to cut out the boxing plates...I do better with a torch on thicker material than thin...but probably would have just zipped it out all with the Plasma cutter had it been working, and just went with 1/8th in.
In regards to insetting the plates, I did that behind the IFS plates that Heidts supplied, the way the x-member was designed, it required the plates to be on the outside of the rails.
In retrospect, I should have marked them where the X-member went, then bent them "in" to sit on the inside part of the rails to give good/better clearance for lines and such, plus welding would have been easier and all done by the Mig......I had to Tig the boxing plates that Heidts supplied to ensure a neater looking fit, I Migged them initially, but after grinding them down I picked up a few "parting" lines,...so hence the Tig'ing.
But yes, all my babbling aside, inset the plates, it really makes it easier to weld them in...go for about a 1/4inch inset...seemd to work best for me.



