Bio has a higher gel & cloud point that Dino. How cold is it there? If the fuel is clouding it may be hard on the fuel pump. Have you narrowed down the improved starting to after the engine warms up, or after the outside temperature warms up?

If it's cold enough in the mornings, then I guess it would be possible the thicker fuel is causing the slower start, and the afternoon temperatures are warm enough to not affect the bio. You could do an uneducated, informal test on the bio by draining some into a glass jar and leaving it out overnight. Drain a second jar and leave it inside to keep it warm. If the one outside seems a lot thicker or appears clouded, then I'd suggest topping off with Dino, or adding more anti-gel treatment before you kill your fuel pump.

What percentage Bio are you using?

 

yes the starting problem only happens when the truck sits overnight or long periods but once it starts and runs i can turn it off and it will start right up no problrm the fuel im using is made by a guy here in town i dont know what mixture hes using he told me it was more of a european mixture b temps here are in the 50 degree mark and warms up to about 75

 

Bio can gel/cloud in the low 40's depending on feedstock (the gel & cloud points are very close together). If it's WVO then I have no idea on those points. If it's still slower to start after being off for several hours in the afternoon I think you can rule out the fuel issue.

Having the bad battery and replacing it already kind of throws a wrench into the diagnostics. Because I don't always trust the auto parts stores, who tested the starter 4 times? Was it the same store that tested the batteries the first time (still connected) and said they were good? I had an alternator on a work truck that we had tested at 2 different stores. Both said it tested good, but the dummy light came on in the truck and it always had to be jumped. We replaced the alternator anyway and it solved the problem.

I'd still double check the cable ends and grounds for corrosion (including the relay you mentioned earlier) and just for grins check the oil level in the HPOP before you try to start it cold next time. I'll look at my service manual and see if I can come up with any other ideas until one of the smart guys comes along.

 

well i jus replaced the gpr with a used spare and replaced the starter relay also so i will see in the morn. when i go to work man this sucks im going huntin monday and i need my problem solved asap thx f350-6 your always a help when i need it

 

Glad to help when I can. Here's some more info for you to read up on. With your other post it sounds like you've already been looking into the glow plug relay.

Chart 3
Starting Concerns: Hard Start/Long Crank/Erratic Start/Erratic Crank, Stall After Start, No Start/Normal Crank
Stalls/Quits: Idle
Note: Perform the following preliminary checks:

Check engine oil level.
Confirm correct dipstick part number.
Check for sufficient clean fuel.
Check for an intake restriction.


SYSTEM/COMPONENT REFERENCE (Section 5 Pinpoint Test unless noted)
Check High-Pressure Oil Pump Reservoir Level Make sure oil level is within 25.4 mm (1 inch) of inspection plug.
Attempt To Start Engine REFILL high-pressure oil pump reservoir. ATTEMPT to start engine. If engine starts and then stalls after about 15 seconds, the lubrication system is not supplying enough oil to the high-pressure oil pump. GO to Chart 14. If not, PERFORM KOEO Self Test.
Check Fuel Pump Pressure GO to Section 4A or Section 4B , Diagnostic Subroutines, Performance Diagnostic Procedures. PERFORM Fuel Pump Pressure Test.
Perform KOEO On-Demand Self Test GO to the appropriate pinpoint test if fault is indicated.
Perform KOEO Injector Electrical Self Test GO to the appropriate pinpoint test if fault is indicated.
Repeat KOEO Injector Electrical Self Test. REPEAT KOEO Injector Self Test. DISCONNECT and RECONNECT injector wiring at valve cover gaskets, one at a time. If the KOEO Injector Electrical Self Test runs, REMOVE valve cover and INSPECT the disconnected valve cover wiring harness for a pinched or grounded injector wire. If not, GO to Pinpoint Test NC and CHECK IDM power and ground. GO to NA29 to locate short to ground at IDM or in injector circuits.
Check Parameter Identification (PIDs) GO to Section 4A or Section 4B , Diagnostic Subroutines, Hard Start/No Start Diagnostics. PERFORM Steps 9A, 9B, 9C or 9D. If a fault is indicated, GO to the appropriate pinpoint test.
Check Glow Plug Relay Circuit CAUTION:Confirm resistance to ground is above 10,000 ohms before attaching to starter relay.

CHECK voltage between glow plug relay circuit 38 (BK/OG) and chassis ground. If battery voltage is not present, INSTALL a new relay feeder wire fusible link 299 (DB).
Check Glow Plug Relay GO to Pinpoint Test KC .
Check Glow Plugs GO to Pinpoint Test KC .
Check Glow Plug Connectors GO to Pinpoint Test KC .

 

well after replacing the starter relay gpr relay and topping it off with dino same story this is really starting to **** me off!!

 

I apologize if this is a dumb question but, how do you know that used gpr was any good?

 

well the only reason i changed it was because the 2 post on the relay were hot to touch and started making really loud noise so i changed it out and noise stopped and post werent hot anymore this was not my problem jus threw this in the post!

 

I re-read the post and we are dealing with cold start issues here, unless I missed something.

The GPR could very well indeed be the problem, since it looks like that has not been ruled out yet. It may not be the GPR directly, perhaps some faulty wiring.. but you said the truck starts great when its warm..

Just thought it might be worth looking into.

Edit I see from other posts your GPR issue...my point is that you may have replaced the hot GPR with a defective one...if the one you put on was used.

 

im not having cold start issue im having dragging start issue whether its cold or warm today it was high 70s and when i got off work my starter draggs again as i go to start after 5 trys it fires right up and when i get home i turn off and start it up and it fires like theres no issue it only does it when the truck sits for a long period

 

What part of Arizona are you in? Maybe there's a member close by that has a scanner where you can monitor and test a few things. The way it's acting sounds like either an oil or electrical problem.

Smokin did make a good point that new does not always equal good. Have you checked volt readings on both sides of the new GPR? You could also try swapping it with the AIH relay (right next to the GPR) to see if that helps. Have you tried ohming the glow plugs to rule them out?

 

im in phoenix i called a diesel mechanic today and he told me sounds like a electrical issue and the shop does not work on electrical so i dont know of anyohter mechanics around here other than the stealership!!

 

Well you can check the GPR with a multi meter and the glow plugs with an ohm meter for free. That would be a good place to start. The GPR is energized between 0 - 120 seconds so a cold engine and morning temps would be the best time to check. One side should have power all the time. The other side should have power briefly after the key is turned on. Check those volt readings. They should be the same or very close. There is also a ground wire going to the PCM on one of the smaller posts I think. I'll have to look into that.

To check the glow plugs you need to find the 9 - pin connector that goes into each valve cover. The pins are aligned as follows:

G G I I C I I G G

G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common

The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM. Do Not pierce the wires to test.

Test between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms.

To check glow plugs Test between "G" and battery ground. Should be between 0.6 and 2.0 Ohms

 

ill have to test tommorow since its dark and need to get a meter will let u know what i find thx again