I’d appreciate your advice on whether I should change cams or not.
I have a stock, 37k mile 71 boss mustang (manifolds, dual point, factory aluminum intake and autolite carb, heads with stock rockers). I am getting ready to pull the cleve out for an engine compartment detail, and an engine detail, and am considering changing cams.

Basically, I’ve only had this car for six months, but it doesn’t seem overly ‘boss fast’ to me. Kind of flat. [] I’ve got good oil pressure, smooth (clackity) idle (with accurately adjusted valves), good operating temp. , no smoke or engine noises. I pulled the intake and valve covers (to bead blast them - they’re back on) and it was super clean in the lifter galley and head surface. Maybe it’s because I’ve never had a 3.91ed car before, but it just doesn’t shred the tires like I think it’s capable of. (BTW, I’ve been running 93 octane with Vogal products lead additive (supposed to bring the octane up to around 100 or so).

Before I yank out the motor, I plan to do a compression test. Once out, I also plan to pull the oil pan to check all clearances, and possibly the heads to look at the cylinder walls.
And I thought this would be the time to change the cam. What do you guys think? If I do, I definitely want to keep the mechanical grind, and don’t mind making the change. I’d just hate to do it if it’s not necessary.

If you think it would be a good idea, can you guys recommend anything that would be an improvement over the stock grind, and still allow me to use my stock valve springs? Thanks!

 

I am buy far and away from a "purest" but with only 37K on one of the most sought after modles of the boss engines I wouldn't change a thing. As a matter of fact just bead blasting and cleaning up parts without careful attention to detail (making sure not to remove factory ink/paint numbers ect) could mean a reduction in value to a purest if you try to resell it. I've seen guys gigged at car shows for such minor things has one shade off on color of the valve covers and water necks that faced the wrong direction.

The bottom line is though do what makes you happy. After all you bought it for your enjoyment and not for the "other guy".

 

Wayne - I'm with you. My goal with this car is to keep it 100% original (within my financial means of course), but to definitely enjoy the heck out of it. There's nothing I like better than a stock (appearing) muscle car ripping up the asphalt. However, to me, an internal change, like a cam, would/could not hurt the value. And to me, bead blasting a grimy intake/valve covers can only increase the value. Great thing about boss 351s, you don't have to go through the smog/parts inavailability like boss 302/429ers deal with.

Just an aside: Although the odometer shows 37k, the engine compartment/engine is NOT 100% correct. It has been repainted along the way, and I need to do some rust repair on the top of the inner fender aprons. But it is going back the way it's supposed to be - I can assure you that. Thanks for your post.

 

Go to
http://www.vintage-mustang.com/forums/postlist.phpCat=1&Board=forum
The guys there would love to hear from you, and maybe able to help you figure out the problem and keep it original. They have several MCA judges on tap, who can tell you exactly how to not cost your car points.

Stryder
:-X11

 

Stryder - thanks. I'm a VMF burnout... not enough technical whizzes for the cleveland engine internals for this question though. Please, any thoughts are greatly appreciated on the my cam question. Thanks!

 

Well, I look at internal changes like this. If you want to make an imporvement, then go for it. Myself, I have a '70 428CJ Mach with 88k. The motor is heavily modified on the inside. I removed the original cam, rockers,heads, intake and put them on "ice" I put in a nice resposive full roller set up, and purchased another set of CJ heads that had been previously ported/polished and even a Sidewinder intake. The best part of the intake, is you can paint it to match the engine and most people wont even know its aluminum because of the Ford casting #s. The only noticable upgrade, is a set of headers. So go ahead an feed your Boss some beef, and store the original parts in case you decide to go back or sell the car.

Stryder
:-X11

 

I see no issue with changing out the cam. Most clevelands like the dual grinds, find a nice one that appeals to you and use it.
I also like the single plane intakes, but that may be a departure that you dont want.

 

I agree with stryder, replce the orgins with aftermarket things and keep all the orginals making sure that they're package up so no harm comes to them and mod away but don't do anything that could wreck the orginal block.


82' Flareside: zoom zoom doesn't even begin to describe it
2/4 Drop
Soon to have 325hp 351 Clevo
(maybe more,in a 3600lb truck)
Backed by a C6 with a 2000 rpm stall and a 3.50 9 incher
American Racing AR-23 (series 23) wheels
Upgraded interior
Soon to have a kick @$$ stereo