Be aware, especially if you don't live where there are strict building codes, that the metal bldg boys have been using every trick in the book to reduce the amount of metal in their buildings. This includes reducing snow load allowances,wind load bracing, etc. I would insist on them giving you their ratings and taking them to a structural engineer for review BEFORE buying!! There was an epidemic of steel buildings that collapsed last winter from these kinds of things.

 

Good luck with the shop project. There are a lot of great ideas on this thread that I wish I would have considered before I built my shop. Don't get me wrong, I've been waiting all my life to finally have what I have but I should have gone with a higher ceiling and bigger is definitely better.

 

Don't mind Havi - He's building Truck Disneyland........

 

I should have paid more attention to lighting and I'm not satisfied with how well the finish is wearing on the floor. I thought I had done a real good job applying the sealer knowing a slick finish would be easier to keep swept up. Problems with it chipping up in places and I can always go back and fix but would have been nice not to have issues. Rather spend my time on my truck than redoing the floor. Same thing on not having enough lighting. Just a few more things you might consider in the planning stages that will save you some time down the road.

mike

 

where / why is it chipping? from rolling lifts/jacks, or tires?

Sam

 

The floor jack and some poorly designed creeper wheels have been pretty hard on it but the biggest damage comes from parking the wifes expo on it when it has been raining and the tires are wet. I'm thinking of just getting a few old floor mats to put down and let the tires rest on those.

 

What sealer did you use? Like an epoxy sealer? I used one, when the cement was fresh, recommended by my concrete guy, and it's great - you can apply it any time, but when fresh is best - it helps harden the surface.

The only way an epoxy or that type will work, is if you rough up the surface and break the surface amines, or something like that. They say you don't have to, but you do. I did a LOT of hardwood flooring on concrete slabs, and we had to use a sealer, to stop the moisture - as a moisture barrier. And any time we didn't grind down the slab a bit first, it would fail, and sometime delaminate.

Just my $02 worth...

R

 

One thing I've seen stressed over and over on this thread is ceiling height and shop size. I don't care how big you build it, you still will not have enough room! So build it as BIG as you can afford! I have a 30 by 40 by 10 and I wished it was 100 by 100 by 16. I also wished I had of bought the BEST lights I could have found besides the cheap 4 foot lights. Also plan on a 200 amp breaker box minimum. and drop you several 220 plugs on each wall. If you plan on any heavy machinery such as lathes or mills go with a minumin 6 inch slab. I did everything right for my shop when I built it but at that time it was a machine shop and I didn't have my trucks, so I never thought about a lift. I'm going to add some on to each side as the funds become avalible because with the truck torn down theres just not enough room and I need someplace for my 51 to set till I can start on it!

 

Or, the alternative, is be happy with what you build. My 28X40 suits my needs perfectly. Most of the tools I want, I have, but I've learned to store what I have, with the best use of the space available. My shelves are built high, so I can store the big stuff underneath (table saw, joiner, horiz. band saw, etc), so the space above them isn't "dead air". Plus, I put everything on wheels, so I can re-configure at will, and use anything I need to use, quickly. The only two things I would have done different, is the height - 10 foot just isn't enough!! But it was until the truck came. So, to do it again, I would build higher. Also, a "couple of 220 plugs" on each wall, isn't enough, either. I have two, but didn't think about one being used for the air compressor. Easily fixed, when I find the time, but I would go 4 on each wall. I agree with the 4 foot fluorescents - if you DO go that route, and live in a cold climate, make sure they are the cold temperature lights. I have the 4 footers, and they are enough, but I did go with the low temp lights.

Insulate, insulate, insulate!! Hot or cold weather, you'll be glad you did. I still have my roof to insulate, but the difference is amazing. In 90 degree weather, my air conditioner (biggest "house" I could find) keeps up pretty well. It should keep up just fine, when I get the ceiling done. I have the insulation, but haven't decided how exactly I want to put it up. I will before next winter, though!! Of course, my overhead radiant heat will be operational by then, as well.





r

 

Gary,

I haven't read every post so this might be a repeat. there is a forum on garages/tools/techniques... these guys build garage-mahals and collect tools like matchbox cars... but they have some great ideas and lots of pics to look at for ideas... lots of knowlegeable garage building folks that can help you out with ideas and what to do/not to do here's the link

The Garage Journal Board - Powered by vBulletin

check out the tool forum also... some of these guys have several 10s of thousands of dollars in snap-on gear... these guys quote s.o. part numbers like I do my kids birthdays... lots of fun to watch them

BTW... I'm just beginning to plan/gather/finance an addition to my humble shop it's 24x25 now and will soon be 24x 40... picking up 300 FREE concrete blocks tomorrow... plan on an extension along the same roof line and eventually take out the soon to be middle wall..replacing it with a full span
I-beam so I'll end up with one bay that is 12x25 and one bay that is 18x25... I'm all giddy just planning it... scrounging and pillaging for parts/pieces. I'll be buying material as I go and when it's complete it will be paid for... wish I could find some free ready mix

enjoy garagejournal.com

later
John

 

Probably not exactly what you are talking about, but around here, you can get on a list for "hot loads" - these are the concrete delivery trucks that have concrete in them, too much for the job, left over, etc, and they need to dump it like right now. If you are home, they'll bring it over, and dump it. If you work nights, or have a couple days off during the week (I have both!!), it can be a big money saver on walkways, etc. You form up the sides, and just form the end, depending on how much they have on the truck (they know pretty much exactly how much). You just have to be around to accept the delivery, and be prepared to work it right then. But, if you are building a sidewalk, it can be a great money-saver!

R

 

I second the garage journal forum, as I have joined it a while back myself. One thing I'll add to the lighting, is go with T4 or T8 flourescents, as T12's will be phased out. I have mostly T12's in my 24x24 "garage waiting to fall over" and they are noisey, flicker alot, and are slow in the cold....but they were cheap $$$, then I bought one 4 tube T8 recessed fixture, which was not cheap, and in hindsight, I wished I had saved the money to just buy the T8 fixtures in the first place.

 

There's a problem using the T8's (or any fluorescent with electronic ballasts). They won't work on a GFCI circuit, and if you have water in the shop you could be required to put the lights on a GFCI. Fortunately mine doesn't have running water yet, so I am converting to T8's as the T12's burn out. Even T8's don't like temp's below 32, they'll light up but it reduces their life pretty dramatically.

 

I'm using radiant tube heat, like Rogers, in my new shop and ceiling fans to push the heat down. I am also installing triple outlet power cords, in a retractable spool, from the ceiling. My current shop had cords handing from the ceiling before I moved in because the previous tenant had a row of machines he used them for. My landlord said he was going to remove them but I told him to leave them in, the best thing I did. Eliminates extension cords and they retract about 6½" above the floor, low enough to grab but high enough I don't walk into them when they're not in use.

 

I built a 24 x 32 gambrel barn with dual floors for my place,and wish it was bigger--almost everyone wants one bigger!!! I am happy,but still need to heat it. I planned on being down south for the bad weather,but sometimes stay up north,and it gets cold.
I have 10' ceiling and wish it was higher.
My top floor is a great getaway from the wife when she finds out I bought more trucks--haha!! So far it is a office/workout room(gets real dusty) and a bedroom. I have room for 3 trucks down below and all my tools,etc.
Will most likely move some day,and will remember my mistakes,and thanks guys for that garage site---it will some good reading.....Bill