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Ok you guys convinced me. I am going to drop this block of this week to the machine shop. I need some good recomendations for this rebuild. It looks like I will have to have the cylinders bored out at least .020 over to clean them up real good. The shop will let me know for sure. But what I want is some good specs for putting it back together. Nothing to fancy or to costly. The heads I have, look like 2V {D5AE-A2A} I'll have the shop rework these also. What would be a good cam, pistons, timing gear, oil pump, to put into this. I do not have a intake manifold yet. But the guy at my shop, says he has several two barrels he can sell me real cheap. The same goes for the exhaust manifold. I have kind of taken it that the original exhaust manifold may be ok for know. What about brand names for gaskets, engine kits or just parts in general.
So if any of you can help I would be very thankfull.
Thanks
P.S. By the way I tell most of my chevy buddies that the only time their chevys run real good are when they are being towed by my ford!
Any of the comp or crane cams should do just fine. Definitely go with a Cloyes "True" double roller timing set. There's only one gasket company in my estimation that's worth anything and that would be Fel-Pro. Make sure to spend the extra $$ and get the re-useable valve cover gaskets. Edlebrock has a great intake manifold for the 400. However, Offenhauser has a better one for about $100 more. Holley 4bbls are about a dime a dozen and unlike chevy's they're actually worth something. I highly reccomend them! Stick with the stock exhaust manifolds. Beleive me, I wish I had. (See gallery) And if you can afford it, Roller rockers (pedestal-type from Ford-Racing) and an MSD ignition system will definitely enhance power and economy. BTW stick with stock compression and get the bottom-end components balanced together for reliability. Those are my opinions anyway.
Looks like Jethro pretty much got you covered. i like headers but they can lead to vapor lock problems in the summer. I'd go .030 over on the bore, no more without sonic checking. A little more compression would help if you're buying pistons anyway.
Thanks for the start. Just talked to the guy at the shop. he said he will end about .040 over. But he all so said the block was in great shape beside the piting in the cylinders. What is BTW?
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 26-Jun-02 AT 02:14 PM (EST)]FYI (for your information) BTW means: "by the way" To use this in context would be something like: The only reason why I had previously mentioned sticking with stock compression is; "no matter how much horsepower you have the gas prices will not change because of it. Especially considering our current relationship with the middle east. BTW the Asian market, whose market is the basis for the United States market, crashed today.
Jeg's, Summit, P.A.W., Etc. Make sure that you don't order everything from just one supplier. The products may be exactly the same, but the prices are usually very different.
Thanks for updating me on the high tech terms.
Haven't used these forums much, and most of my building has been on smaller engines. several v-6's and some 300 straight six's.
This will be my first " bigger block". So any help is greatly apprecaited
The paw website is http://www.pawengineparts.com/ but it is useless. All it has is an order form and a catalog order option, along with a table of links to the manufacturers they carry. You can't browse any products or buy anything except the Catalog there so don't waste your time. BTW, PAW only seems to be cheaper on a few parts but they carry a lot more than Jegs or Summit. Good luck.
The 4 bbl intakes that have been listed are designed to suit 2v heads.
However, even manifolds dresigned to fit 4v heads generally will go fine with 2v heads.
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