I have a hunch that there are a bunch of strong opinions on this one ... I want to hear them before I make my move.

I found a bargain on a 59 f250 with 86k that seems to have spent most of it's life in a barn. Remarkably little rust. No eaten through areas that I can find yet. The po couldn't get it to start ... runs fine now. And did a real po of a paint job. My next task is to tear down the brakes to see that it will stop once I get it to go. (Made a bit trickier by the liberal application of paint to the lug studs.) Once that is done I would like to spot repair the dings and rust damage peicemeal.

What I have in mind is take the fender off, fix it, put it back on, move on tho the next spot. I can't afford what I would have to buy my wife to allow me to strip it down all at once. (Did I mention that she boought the truck for our 20th annniversity -- what a girl.) And I will get a lot more fun out of a long project than a short intense one. This would be even more fun if I can drive it around while I work.

My current concept is to remove the bumpers and grill and take them to a local place that does blasting with a variety of media and also nice finishes (even powdercoat if I want). And take the rest of the truck in for an inexpensive coating. Either primer or something that will make a good base coat for the eventual real paint job.

Then I can take my time with the spots.

The real question is how to approach each spot. Low budget high pressure sandblasting seems like a bad idea. Driving each peice 50 miles each way to the quality sandblaster doesn't have much appeal either. I'm prepared to cut out and patch real bad spots. I think that there are few enough other places that I could sand them down by hand or clean them ( no flake left and 90% rust gone ) and use a rust converter. Then there are the spot sandblasters...

The other easy question is what metal stock do I keep on hand for patches?

Ok let the opinions roll. Remember everyone's opinion matters... (Really I mean look how much time I waste everyday listening to Mrs. Clinton's...)

 

I did my truck as a rolling resto for about 2-1/2 years before deciding to tear it down for the big redo, so I am familiar with your idea. Driving the truck as long as you can is a great idea and keeps the enthusiasm up.

I can't say without seeing the conditions what the best repair method might be, but media blasting, followed by an epoxy primer is generally considered the best overall method for body repair. The epoxy will last as long as the area needs to wait and is weather proof. It can be sanded and covered with final paint, or filled over with filler, or wire brushed away when weld repairs are in order.

The commute you have makes that method problematic, so you may opt for the one I used most everywhere. I just used a bevel-faced wire brush on an angle grinder to remove 6 layers of paint, primer and mucho bondo down to bare metal, then worked from there. This is the method I had to use for my entire cab. It is messy and time cinsuming, but effective. I did many weld repairs and a lot of custom mods with this as my basic area prep method. I was able to get loose stuff like running boards, hood, doors and fenders media blasted by a local guy, but he didn't offer epoxy coating.

I like the rust convertors a lot. There is one that I have bookmarked on my home computer that looked very promising. It is a phosphate that is in rattle can and is sprayed on bare metal and lasts that way for a very long time with no rust. It can be welded on without any further treatment. Sounded good to me, although I didn't find it until I was well beyond needing it. I'll post the link when I get home.

Good luck.

 

Might want to think about just taking the truck in and have it all blasted and epoxy primed...then, as you're fixing, you can patch as needed...it's a higher initial investment, but would save lots of time/gas in the long run.

 

As far as rust converters I have heard good things about a product called "Picklex 20". Converts rust and protects bare metal. Can be painted over with Epoxy Primer (not compatible with self etch primer). You can weld through it as well.

 

Depending on what there is to deal with usually the fastest and most thorough method that I`ve found so far was to sandblast the deeply rust embedded areas. Because of your traveling distance involved in having it done I would consider the possibility of investing even in a small home sandblasting unit if you have a sufficient sized compressor to operate it. Other wise RJ`s mention of using a wire wheel will have to suffice.

 

There is a product called POR15 that does a nice job stopping rust and it makes a very durable cover/paint. The main thing once you get down to bare metal is to make sure you put an etching primer over it. If it is not etching it will not stick to bare metal. The other thing is to make sure that what every you put on it is a sealer. If you put normal primer on bare metal and let it set out it will rust like it had nothing on it. Go to a store that sells automotive paint and ask their profesional some questions -They should be able to fix you up and give you some good advice

 

all good suggestions but if you use epoxy primer be sure it is of the etching variety, it makes a better bond where there may be rust or traces of anything else

 

Picklex 20 was the product I was referring to. Sounds like good stuff.