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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 04:04 PM
  #1  
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carl boehm
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Weird Transmission ...

So I've got this '94 exploder ... V-6 ... auto ... almost 3 years ago I put a re-manufactured tranny into it from Hanser's in Billings. Never had a problem with it. I recently moved from Missoula to Laramie and on the trip down the transmission seemed to "downshift" and the RPM's were up about 500. Everything worked and shifted fine ... until yesterday AM. Took the girlfriend out for breakfast and when I went to leave I put it into OD gear and it acts like it's slipping and won't move ... I shifted into regular drive and no problem. It works fine. But if you shift into OD after moving the car ... it just slips back to nothing. Oil warm is just below the hash marks on the dipstick and doesn't smell burn't. Anybody have any idea what is happening here ?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 09:18 PM
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Carl here ... I've been reading any related posts about transmissions this afternoon and evening. So far I have learned that maybe when driving down to Laramie and the "downshift" happened that maybe it was an unlocking of the torqe convertor? Maybe since the RPM's have been about 500 RPM higher this could be the case ? What would be the next step to check ? Why would this tranny work in D and not (D) ? Does anybody have anything to say ?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 11:37 PM
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Bear River
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You say the fluid is just below the hashmarks? My stick doesn't have hashmarks but rather two dots, but shouldn't the fluid be in the hashmarked area? Low fluid can cause the symptoms you are experiencing. Replace the fluid, replace the filter, and refill to the proper level and see if that doesn't improve things. 500 rpms higher does sound like an unlocked torque converter. Also if the fluid is in fact low, check the transmission modulator, the diaphragm may have ruptured.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 07:53 AM
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Thanks Bear River ... after looking at many of the posts I tried to e-mail you but couldn't ... My 2 dots are just below the hash marks on my stick. I'm going to clean the mass air sensor this AM and then plan on changing the filter and fluid as you describe to many people ... "the soft flush". What would I do to get the torque to lock as it always is running higher RPM in 4th (OD). I can't immagine the tranny is shot as it only has 36,200 (just out of warrenty) miles. I had forgotten about the modulator ... used to be a common cure for tranny problems in the "old Days" of my mechanic life. I'll check that also ... I'll post how this goes ...
 
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 10:04 AM
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You may have lost the OD band, the Tang has a habit of coming off.

Seem to remember (been a long time and I am getting old) that it can be accessed through the tailstock, (no need to drop tranny, just T/C).
 
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 10:14 AM
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Arrow

that may be why it runs higher rpm and seemed to shift fine ... any Idea why it won't move in (D) shifter select but does just fine in D ?? I'n doing the Mass Air right now ... came in to warm up. It's still winter at 7,200ft and no heated garage. Found the air filter cover off from the last Oil change ... maybe that could be a problem ??? I looked quick for the Vac Modulator before comming in to warm ... where is it located ?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by carl boehm
I looked quick for the Vac Modulator before comming in to warm ... where is it located ?
It is on the Passenger side of the tranny body, above the exhaust pipe, you may have a heat shield there as well(many have fallen off), you will see a vacuam hose on the nipple(pull it off and check for fluid).

Note: if you pull the modulator, do not loss the pin, you will need it for the replacement.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 06:28 PM
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Cool

... Well I'm here to report ... I did a cleaning on the Mass Air Sensor, put the new Air cleaner in and got it bolted down tight topped off the fluid. I couldn't get to the vac Modulator so that will wait until it's warmer .. or I notice a loss of fluid. Truck still won't move in (D) but if I start in D, let it get to 3rd gear and then shift to (D) it will stay. But if it kicks or drops to 2nd it slips in (D) so I must drop it into D to continue. I didn't get to the freeway yet to see where my RPM's are yet. Thought I'd drive it a couple days to make sure it will still move and won't leave me stranded before I try that. I'd still like to hear from anyone with experience or solutions ... Thanks
 
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 07:21 PM
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Question

Ok so today I was Brave and Jumped onto the freeway for the drive to work ... Still no go in (D) but D was fine. After getting up to about 50 I shifted the lever to (D) and away we went ... my RPM'S are even back to Normal now. On the way back home tonite ... same thing. Why won't it go 1st gear in one drive selector but 1st gear works just fine in the other drive selector ?????????
 
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 07:38 PM
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Probably a leaky gasket in the valve body, not enough pressure from stop.

You will never know unless you have a tech put a gauge on the tranny and run a pressure test.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 12:02 AM
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I agree, there is probably an internal fluid leak in the valve body. Mine had a rare problem where the fluid would leak from the 1st gear circuit into the overdrive and engaged the overdrive gear on top of 1st. Made it feel almost as though it was starting out in 2nd. In drive everything was normal because the overdrive circuit was disabled.

Likewise you can get other strange behaviors when the valve body is worn. You can try a pressure boost valve. It can sometimes resolve some shift and engagement problems. Without more troubleshooting its hard to say what might be wrong. But you will probably end up rebuilding or replacing the valve body.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 07:36 AM
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Thanks Guy's ... it's starting to make some sense althought Mine doesn't move at all in OD gear but I can see what you are talking about. Do you think that it's worth doing an oil and filter change before tearing into the Valve Body or maybe take it to get tested 1st. I'm afraid I will get a standard "needs a rebuild" answer. What if I change oil and filter and take my chances that will do the trick? I've seen thread's about checking the valve body for warpage. Lots of directions where to go and I really don't have the bucks to mess with any of it right now. Again thanks for the comments ...
 
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 12:19 PM
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Carl,

It's not going to cost you much at all to pull the valve body yourself and look for some obvious issues. Just a day of your time.

There are plenty of threads (and a sticky) on the valve body removal (and it's upgrade).

Give it a shot.

CMOS
 
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