Stud gun? Dent Puller?
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Darksider
Joined: May 2003
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From: Burlington, CT
Stud gun? Dent Puller?
Im looking for a stud gun to pull some dents on my truck. Does anyone recommend a brand and where to buy it? cost would be good to know as well. Thanks RT
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Cape Girardeau, Missouri
Autobodytoolmart.com has them................................. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/c-49...cessories.aspx
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Westminster,Md
I've used the Uni-spotter, with pleasing results,
the Uni-spotter "mini-puller" is a great tool also, worth the extra few bucks,very precise control, shrinking tip helps.
Expect to give up 4 to 5 hundred smackers for the complete kit; U-pay may have some, offerings.The Uni-spotter 'stinger' kit, well worth the price IMHO.Will easily pay for itself after a few repairs,...No I am NOT a salesman.
the Uni-spotter "mini-puller" is a great tool also, worth the extra few bucks,very precise control, shrinking tip helps.
Expect to give up 4 to 5 hundred smackers for the complete kit; U-pay may have some, offerings.The Uni-spotter 'stinger' kit, well worth the price IMHO.Will easily pay for itself after a few repairs,...No I am NOT a salesman.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Cape Girardeau, Missouri
I personally have a uni spotter brand gun. I've had it for at least 15 years and used in a full time body shop on a daily basis with zero problems. I also have an Eagle dent puller that uses only a sharpened to a point bolt that welds to the panel, pull out the dent, then just twist the handle to remove the bolt. Some of the guys in my shop prefer the unispotter stud gun, the others prefer the Eagle. The Eagle is more costly to buy, but basically nothing to buy afterwards. The stud gun is cheaper to buy, but you have to buy the studs as they are not reusale after you cut them off. You also have to be careful to not drop or throw the studs on the floor or you will certainly sooner or later have a flat tire.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: peyton, colorado
I'm a cheap skate, and I don't have that many dents that aren't accessable from both sides, so I have a different method. I bend nails into a "J", then tack weld the head to the dent. Hook the J onto a similar J on my cheap pos dent puller and wack away. I cut the tack welds with a dremel cut off wheel so I can make a very small, precision cut, then grind smooth.
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From: Moro Bay, AR
Originally Posted by rhopper
I'm a cheap skate, and I don't have that many dents that aren't accessable from both sides, so I have a different method. I bend nails into a "J", then tack weld the head to the dent. Hook the J onto a similar J on my cheap pos dent puller and wack away. I cut the tack welds with a dremel cut off wheel so I can make a very small, precision cut, then grind smooth.
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Darksider
Joined: May 2003
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From: Burlington, CT
Originally Posted by rhopper
I'm a cheap skate, and I don't have that many dents that aren't accessable from both sides, so I have a different method. I bend nails into a "J", then tack weld the head to the dent. Hook the J onto a similar J on my cheap pos dent puller and wack away. I cut the tack welds with a dremel cut off wheel so I can make a very small, precision cut, then grind smooth.
I like how you think! I wish i tried that my self. I might just do so tonight.
I just seen it used on tv and could use it to pull small dents and so on. Im no body man by trade just building my truck. I might never need it again just did not know what they cost and how well they really work. Just because you see it on tv does not mean its good. Thanks to all that replied!
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
IMHO Unless you have had a lot of practice, you can do a lot more damage than good with a stud gun. Novices use too few studs and/or in the wrong places then stretch the metal into lumps and bumps that are even more difficult to deal with. There are very very few places you can't get at the back of a panel to bump out a dent.
I'd suggest spending the money on a set of torpedo mallets, body hammer and dollies, and a shrinking disk instead.
I'd suggest spending the money on a set of torpedo mallets, body hammer and dollies, and a shrinking disk instead.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Auburndale, Florida
Glad to hear that the Harbor Freight stud gun is a workable tool as I've been wanting one for those once in a while places and haven't wanted to spend the sheckles on one of the other brands (I'm not cheap I'm "conservative"). But to Axe's point most of the time I've been able to get a dolly or spoon (or something made on the spur of the moment) to most of the places I need to pull or whack - I'd just be nice to have a new toy to play with!
OilLeaks
OilLeaks
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
Originally Posted by rhopper
I'm a cheap skate, and I don't have that many dents that aren't accessable from both sides, so I have a different method. I bend nails into a "J", then tack weld the head to the dent. Hook the J onto a similar J on my cheap pos dent puller and wack away. I cut the tack welds with a dremel cut off wheel so I can make a very small, precision cut, then grind smooth.
Thanks for the tip
Bobby
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
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From: Northshore, MN
old trucks and modern cars are two different beasts. I agree with AX, that most spots on an old truck are accessible from both sides. On a newer car, with all the wiring and plastic on the inside, makes it quicker to use the stud gun. Again, think body shops as production shops. I had thought about the uni-spotter, but instead I may go with the HF one until I wear it out. One benefit with the uni-spotter is that it has an available tip to weld on the little trim piece clips, shaped like a nail head typical on 1970's Ford trucks.
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