NO I don't know the number for the KB pistons, Like I said earlier in this post Stoking in the matter of money .. if you got it to spend go for it, if not I'd go with just putting 351C pistons on your 400 Rods and have the small end bushed , Throw on a set of Aussie 2V heads and a good set of headers with a 750 Holley on top a good aftermarket intake, Cam is of your choice just remember roller is better, and roller anywhere in the valve train will give you more ponies, and a good roller timing gear set..this set-up will give you all the H.P. most street trucks will ever need.Hell this set-up would even be a good Drag Racing set-up for one of those old Maverics or Fairmonts looking to be a sleeper....

 

So anyone building a stroker 400 yet ..IN this thread there 3 good combo to be had .
1. The 351C piston on stock 400 rods bushed pins..with the right C.H. you can have a High Compression 400.
2. 240 6 cyl. rod is 6.79 off grind crank to 4.18 add KB235 pistons, and doing your own valve reliefs. And decking the block to get your Compression you want.
3. 300 rods and stock height 351m pistons? The pistons should go right on the rods and the deck clearance ought to be pretty close. All you have to do is narrow the rod big ends. offset grind the crank to 4.18".



ShaZam

 

I have a few questions about these builds.

1. We know the 400 rods need a bushing to reduce the small end from .975 to .912" so we can use 351C pistons. The stock 400 pistons have a large .057" deck clearance from the factory. We need a taller piston, a longer rod or a shorter block to reduce the deck clearance if we want to take advantage of any quench benefits. Which way works best?

2. The KB235 piston has a 1.261" compression height and a .927 pin.
The 240 rod has a .912" small end so it needs to be enlarged.
10.297
-1.261 piston KB 235
-6.795 rod 240 I 6
-2.090 crank throw (1/2 stroke 4.18")
---------------------------------
=0.151" deck clearance

Did I get these numbers right? It looks like a lot of DC.

3. The 300 rods are 6.208". I have no info on the small end.
10.297
-1.947 351M piston
-6.208 300 rod
-2.090 crank throw
---------------------------------
=0.052" deck clearance

This still looks like too much DC, but my bigger concern is whether the crank counter weights will clear the piston with such a short rod.
The 351M pistons are heavy because of the tall compression height and I don't think there is a very good selection from the aftermarket.

Please correct my numbers if I have anything wrong.

 

Well I guess the real question here is , just how much can you deck the block before you weaking it ...
I know on my 435 stroker the block was decked .022 and I think my 426 stroker had .015 taken off it to make them zero deck.

How much deck should there be to make the quench work on the Aussie heads with flat top piston.

 

"just how much can you deck the block before you weaking it ..."

I prefer to leave it alone as long as it's straight. Why spend $100+ on machine work unless you have to. If you take off more than .020-.030" total between the block or head, you may have to machine the intake manifold also.

"How much deck should there be to make the quench work on the Aussie heads with flat top piston."

Close to 0 deck is about right. I posted some quench info before. Scroll down to #15. https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID12/1046.html

 

:7

Well this is helping out lots, maybe I'll get off my duff now and build one.

 

here's another one...

Keith Black #285 pistons - FT, 1-relief, 2cc, 1.44 CH
240 rods
4.13 stroke
about 12.5:1 compression

or how about this:

Keith Black #148 pistons - reverse dome, 1-relief, 13cc, 1.67 CH
400rods
4.030 stroke
zero-deck block (about .03 off)
about 10.8:1 compression

okay, on that one i was trying to get zero deck with the d-cup pistons and stock rods, without taking too much off the block. the most oversize autozone lists for 400 rod bearings is .030...

just for argument's sake, lets say you found some bearings that came in other sizes and the stock 10.297 deck was perfect & didn't need to be touched. in that case, a 4.094 stroke would give zero deck with the KB d-cups... so where are the .090 rod bearings?

oh - i looked at the KB235 chevy pistons (for 4.18 stroke & 240 rod) and they look like the top ring is too close to cut much of a valve relief...

man, i wish they made the #285 (or the 235!) with the d-cup...

 

I already figured out the low buck stroker combo. It's almost a bolt in.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID12/1068.html

I should check with KB to find out if they could make the 3434H with a D cup. This 426 stroker makes 10.75:1 with KB flat tops and stock open chamber heads.

 

 

Shazam-just thought I'd dig this one up for the uneducated-good reading Huh?

 

I have took .035 off the block and .072 off the heads, on a 351m. Had to run 351w push rods, with screwin suds. About 9.3 to 1 it has to have 91oct. or it pings. With a 265deh comp cam, it pops when it fires. Stock bottem end, and I turn it 5500 rpm.

 

aight i know im kinda postin in a old thread but.... im lookin for all forged bottom end and was lookin to make a 408 from my 351m however i like the sound of somethin lil bigger like in the 427 rande or so. and im lookin to put an 8-71 at 15 psi. and this will be a strip car with limited street time. and dont worry bout the money part i can work stuff out.

 

If you want an all forged bottom end you'd be better off with Tim Meyer's stroker kit and make it a 434. His 4 bolt main caps would be a wise investment also.
What heads are you using?

 

Look at the top of the forum page. Stroker options are now available from sponsor TMI.

 

oo sry as you can tell im new to this forum lol but i was lookin at the edelbrock aluminum heads