Ok, well I went out this evening and replaced my broken fuel injection line. After struggling to replace it, I finally got it. I went to start it up and after it got the air out of the lines it fired up. However, it is still running way to rough. It feels like not all of the cylinders are firing properly. I then put it in reverse to back out of my parking space and it stalled out. I restarted and put it in drive. As I started moving forward with no where near enough power I could hear all kinds of rattling and clanking. It felt like it was going to shake itself apart it was vibrating so bad. I then turned around in the parking lot and tried to park back in my spot. As I was pulling up the slight incline it stalled out. I started it again and as soon as it shifted into gear it stalled again. Am I missing a simple problem or are these signs of a major problem? Help me please fellas!

 

No need to panic right away. I've been reading thru alot of the pages lately and came across a similar posting, turned out to be a bad injector for that fellow.

 

i would bleed the lines again, all of them. sounds like ya still have air.

 

Really? So simply air in the lines is enough to make it run like its about to take a big ol' ***** and die? I certainly hope thats all it is...

 

I forgot to add:

Could any of these problems be related to water in the fuel?

 

Alright well I wanna get this topic back up towards the top so I can get my beast fixed...Could this possibly be one or more bad injectors? If so how do I go about replacing them and what kind of cost am I looking at?

 

Check your glow plugs first. If only a few are working, you'll be mis-firing when the engine is cold.
Then try bleeding ALL the lines again. An air bubble will wreak havok on your fuel system.
Next have Friend make sure there is no leaking fuel spraying out of the injectors, pump or anything.
Check your fuel filter. If it's clogged, your enginge can't get any fuel.
Check your air filter for the same reason.
If none of the above work, you may have to have a mechanic check your lift pump, if it goes, the main injector pump will follow quickly. Lift pump = $500, pump assembly > $1,500.
If everything else checks out, maybe the timing is out. Also, if it's really cold where you are, the glow plugs may not be doing enough pre heating, you may need a block heater as well.
Water in the fuel may contribute to faulty starting and rough idling, check your water separator, it's backed on to the fuel filter, but that shouldn't be an issue.
Hope that helps.

 

Ok, how do I check the glow plugs? What is the lift pump and what are some signs of that going? Pretty sure the IP is not leaking, none of my injector seals are leaking, and I'll have to double check all of my lines when its light out. How do I check the fuel filter without taking it off and replacing it, or is that the only way? What would cause it to continually/repeatedly stall out? You guys are definately helping, so keep that knowledge flowing!

 

Trust me, if its your glow plugs, it wouldn't start at all. But just to go through the motions, here's an easy way to check them. Connect the gator end of a test light to the positive side of battery post. With ignition off, probe each glow plug where the connector attaches. If the light comes on, plug is almost always good. If it is dim or completely out, then you can replace. They're very simple and easy. I've had all the ford diesels... 6.9, 7.3, 7.3 with a turbo, and the powerstrokes. The older girls will simply not start without heat to atleast half the engine. They may idle rough at 1st, but will not continue this way for more than 10 seconds.
My idea with your problem is air in fuel. Either before or after the injection pump. If before, you could simply have a hole in supply line or fuel filter. This has happened to me with a tiny hole in filter at the top where it attaches to header. No signs of a leak, not wet or anything. Your lift pump is almost never a factor, but, I believe it was on the lower left side of front cover right beside the vacuum pump. Disconnect the supply line at top center of injection pump. Crank engine over, if fuel comes out... I mean a large amount of fuel, not a dribble, then lift pump is fine. If you have air aft the injection pump, bleed your lines. This should be done while engine is idling. You should here a drop in rpm as you loosen each line at the injector. Use a helper to keep her running if you have to. If it still won't run right, atleast you now you know which cylinder is not getting fuel. From there, could be a plugged or sticking injector, or the high pressure pump itself. Hope my rambling helps!

 

Yeah, that actually helps alot. I'll be out this weekend workin on the ol' work horse. If I was to replace an injector, what kind of cost am I looking at. How bout to replace all 8? I know I'm asking alot of questions, but please bear with me. I'm trying to learn myslef how to do more stuff on my truck. How difficult is it to replace injectors and are there any special tools required?

 

I never got that deep on the fords. On a B model CAT motor, you're looking at $400 to $1500 a piece depending on the horses you want. About a days work there as well. But thats a whole lot more motor...14.6 L. My guess would be around a hundred a piece on the navistars, you might check ebay for an idea of where the price range is at. Oh and get a haynes shop manual. There's alot of good toilet reading in there....

 

8 New injectors can be had for under 300 dollars, I was just looking at MWFI.com, 35 dollars each if I remember right.

 

wow, now thats cheap!

 

I've found some remanufactured Delphi injectors on ebay, a set of 8 for less than 150. They say no core charge, what does that mean? Are remanufactured ones worth it, or should I get new ones?

 

i just bought a new set from mfwi and they were $24 each.