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The only other issue is the distributor. Since cam position determines which stroke the piston is on (e.g., power stroke or intake stroke), you may have to rotate the distributor after you line up the cam and crank sprockets.
Don't mess with the distributor until after you get it all back together. Then, turn the crank to the TDC marker and pull the distributor cap.
If the rotor is pointing to the cap #1 terminal, you're good to go. Otherwise, rotate the distributor 180 degrees to get the rotor pointing to the #1 terminal.
Set your cam timing straight up. The production units retarded the cam timing in the crank sprocket. At least in the motors I have taken apart. Check the oem crank sprochet with the multi keyway unit.
It is quite common for the OEM setup to skip a tooth due to the use of nylon cam gears. If an aftermarket setup is used they can wear to the point of skipping a tooth.
Use a name brand double roller set,(Cloyes, Edelbrock,etc), that way "straight up" will be "straight up" and go from there depending on usage and cam choice.
Correct, set it at "0", -or as we say "straight up"!
If you compare the OEM type crank sprocket with the good name brand aftermarket sprocket you can see they had everything set up at -4. Just put the gears together and line up dots, and keyways, until they all line up. The aftermarket sprocket will be in the -4 position.
Then your OEM timing set had been changed out to a straight up set somewhere in it's life. Put the new set in straight up, it will advance the cam versus the old worn one anyway. If your engine has many many miles you still may want to consider a rebuild. You have many options then.
When Ford introduced the M-blocks (351M/400) in trucks in 1977, they went back the the original wider chain and sprockets and did away with the retarded cam timing set that they used in cars starting in 1973.
If your engine was an original truck engine, it didn't have retarded cam timing.
Just use the 0 position on the aftermarket timing set.