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They used D1VE blocks from 71 until 78 and the D3VE heads were used from 73 until the switch to FI in 87 (some did have F5 casting number but from what all appearences are identical to D3 heads)
I've got E6TE heds in my '85 carb'd 460...
I think the carb'd motorhomes got a E7 casting before the final nail in the coffin...
They used D1VE blocks from 71 until 78 and the D3VE heads were used from 73 until the switch to FI in 87 (some did have F5 casting number but from what all appearences are identical to D3 heads)
Monster,
what year did they switch from internal to external balance? I got to cleaning on the block I got out of the 79 F150 with the D3 heads, and found its an internal balance D1VE block. Now I really don't know what I have to work with when it comes time to stroke the thing.
The external balanced blocks will have a spacer behind the balancer that looks like a hatchet. The internal balance is just a smooth spacer. The D9 and up blocks were external balance
you change all the rules when you put a new crank in because the balance is in the crankshaft. All the current stroker cranks are setup to be used in any of the production blocks just fine but most are setup to be externally balanced easiest, you can get them to balance internally but without doing some machining to the throws it takes a fair amount of Mallory so isn't cheap. I balanced mine internal and it cost $500 to get it to balance (had I gone external would have been about $150)
Some of the places selling the newer forged stroker cranks can do the job of lightening the crank to get it to balance internal easier, and if you can give them the bob weight can do the balance for you and I would say let them if reputable.
Biggest thing to remember is what spacer is behind the Dampener when you do the balance job make sure it's the right one and get the right flexplate/flywheel also.
Biggest thing to remember is what spacer is behind the Dampener when you do the balance job make sure it's the right one and get the right flexplate/flywheel also.
Thats where it concerns me, as I found when pulling the motor apart, that there was no hatchet style spacer behing the balancer. Just about a 4" long rounded collar that was keyed the same as the balancer and went through the timing cover.
Your current spacer is for an internal balance engine. Your aftermarket stroker kits can be internal or external. I prefer the internal, I don't like the extra weight slinging around on ends of the crank, but I am turning 7000 rpm.
A street build that is mostly below 6000 rpm an external would be fine. There are several choices.
Oh, this isn't going to be a street truck, it's for my dedicated off road only mud racer that will be running wot from the time I hit the hole until I reach the other side!
I don't know what is in the works as for the stroker. This year is just a stock bottom end with ported heads, bigger valves, Lunati cam/lifters, Victor Jr intake, Holley 850 DP, and Mallory ignition.
Next year, I want to pull the motor, have it punched out and stroked. I'd like to shoot for the 800hp mark and I know it can be done pretty easily with the D1ve block. I just need to figure the right parts combination and start gathering this year for next winter project.
Karl, at 800hp you don't want one of the cast stroker cranks so call Adney Brown at performancecrankshaftsinnc tell him what stroke your looking for, tell him that you want to internally balance it, and if you give him the bob weight he can even balance it for you. It will cost a little bit more but he can cut the crank throws down and lighten the crank and reduce the amount of mallory needed (actually probably won't cost more in the end) he also checks the tolerances etc, and I would trust him to do my crankshaft work.
shop phone 586 549 7557 lounge phone 313 873 6588
Karl, at 800hp you don't want one of the cast stroker cranks so call Adney Brown at performancecrankshaftsinnc tell him what stroke your looking for, tell him that you want to internally balance it, and if you give him the bob weight he can even balance it for you. It will cost a little bit more but he can cut the crank throws down and lighten the crank and reduce the amount of mallory needed (actually probably won't cost more in the end) he also checks the tolerances etc, and I would trust him to do my crankshaft work.
shop phone 586 549 7557 lounge phone 313 873 6588
Sweet! I'll make sure to file that number into the rolodex. What do I gotta do to sweet talk you into making a road trip out to VA this summer for one of the mud races? There have been a few of the chevys guys already talking smack about my little ranger even making it through the hole. Guess we'll have to wait and see......
well now that the snow is over, this week i am going to start looking into my spare motor. going to start with the timing chain and water pump. is there any way to tell what year it really is since they used the block and heads for so long?
if you don't have the actual emissions tag on the valve cover, not really. You can go find the actual casting dates and try to deduce and probably be within a year or two. But the other thing is there really isn't any difference internally on the engines from 73-78 so it's really not a big deal to know exactly what year.
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