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ok so the pedal went to the floor and i looked at it and it is definantly the rear dirvers side brake line that has broke and pours like a river when you put the pedal down.
im pretty good with cars and i really dont think im stupid but since i was 1 block from work and there is a service station there i dropped it off and said the brake line is busted.
so they call me later tell me all teh needs to be replaced is the brake line (just like i thought) but since the pedal went to the floor that the master cyclinder needs to be replaced becasue "sediment is in there now.
i call BS on this, the brake lines come out the bottom of the master cyclinder, i think im going to haver the car towed home and fix the line myslef, since they wpont unless they fix the master cyclinder
Usually the wheel cylinder needs to be replaced because the bleeder is rusted on.
I wouldn't replace the master until after the line is replaced. Sounds like a money
grab to me.
You may need to replace the rear wheel cylinder if the bleeder screw is rusted in. $11.00 at NAPA. I did mine last summer. You will need to bleed the master as it dumped it's fluid but there should be no reason to replace it.
i think he meant the WHEEL cylinder. where the brake line goes into the drum. i probably doesnt NEED to be replaced but is a good idea.
no the guy meant master cyclinder, he told "sediment" would now be in there.
well if that is the case at most i would think i would have to flush out the lines with fresh fluid.
thanks for the help an info on bleeding the master would be good
im not a mechanic but i have built this from the ground up so im not stupid, but i figured i would ask incase i missed something as i never dealt with a master cyclinder really.
(its a 89 notch i know ts hard to tell at this point)
no the guy meant master cyclinder, he told "sediment" would now be in there.
well if that is the case at most i would think i would have to flush out the lines with fresh fluid.
thanks for the help an info on bleeding the master would be good
Some masters come with a bleeder screw just like on the wheel cylinder. If not, then bleed the brakes like normal to get fluid in the lines. Then, use the front and rear brake line connections like a bleeder screw.
Once you have pressure (after bleeding the rear), have someone pump up the brakes. Then, slowly loosen the front connection to the master. Keep doing this until you no longer see bubbles. Repeat with the rear. Then, bleed the system again, from the farthest to the closest. By the time you are done, you will have completely flushed the system as well. You should now be good for another two years (the recommended flush cycle).
Sounds cool. Be sure to take pic's through the process. We would love to see them.
here your more then welcome to browse at some pics, the pics of the car with an engine is before teh winter tear down, the pic i posted is pretty much where im at on it.
Man, I wish my water pump looked that nice. Mine has rust all over it. It squeels and leaks but without a garage, it will be late june before it stops raining out here in Oregon before I can replace mine. It's a good thing that antifreeze is cheap.
Back on topic--a good garage is gonna pressure bleed the brakes anyway--that should clean the "sediment" out.--I have NEVER had to replace a master after a broken line--and I have been running these FORD trucks for 25 years.(lots of broke lines!!) The guy is ripping you of !!!!
Gary
yeah sounds like a ripoff to me-just replace the line and bleed it-sometimes if the master cylinder is corroded if you lose the fluid and it bottoms out it may decrease the life of the master cylinder-or it may crap out as soon as it happens-but that is determined after you bleed the system-"the rubber gets damaged by the corrosion and lets fluid leak by"-just to clarify what I was refering to
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