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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

Ranger Shifter Removal, Help Please

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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 10:57 PM
  #16  
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jpj64
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Hank
Well here’s an update, I removed the two bolts that attach the cross member to transmission, and then loosened the bolts that go through the bushings on each side.

Loosened the bolts on drive shaft, and removed all wires etc. from transmission.
I’m having trouble removing those steel bolts out of the aluminum block and transmission. Letting them soak for a while in WD40, I don’t want to strip them out.

Today 02-25-08
Well the WD40 didn’t help. Anyway I struggled and got all the bolts except the top one on the driver’s side which I had to lower the transmission tail shaft and used 2-1/2’ of extensions using five 3” wobble extensions on the socket end with a short 13mm socket.
Transmission is out of truck, forecast calls for rain tomorrow. Hope to get back to work Wednesday. I didn’t get the pilot bearing out, I tried putting grease in it and driving a socket into also filled with grease that didn’t work for me. There must be trick to trade on this one, got any suggestions?

Thanks for all your help.
Johnny
 
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 07:51 AM
  #17  
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Hank85713
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my pilot can be driven out by removing the flywheel and then using a drift. It will drive out either way. Are you gonna have the fly wheel refaced?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 08:11 AM
  #18  
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Hank
The fly wheel really looks good to me does tht mean I should d0 it anyway?

btw, I never did get your PM.

Thanks,
Johnny
 
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 08:49 AM
  #19  
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Hank
I’m wondering about putting anti-seize compound on those transmission bolts when I’m reinstalling them, what do you think?

I tried to e-mail myself; the rules say fifteen days and fifty posts.

Thanks,
Johnny
 
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 12:34 PM
  #20  
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Hank85713
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OK I dont know what happened on the email. I just sent you another so maybe it will work this time?

The resurface would not hurt, its like when you do your brakes and just true up everything. If this is the 1st clutch I would just for GP's. But actually its your call.

The antisieze wont hurt anything. Put everything back with some on it. what did you figure out on the rear crossmember?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 04:21 PM
  #21  
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Hank
I removed the two bolts that attached the cross member to transmission, and then loosened the bolts that go through the bushings on each side.

BTW, that front member you were talking about! On mine it has rivets and bolts???

I’m going to take out the fly wheel and have it resurfaced tomorrow.

I picked up all new parts for clutch today except the master, from auto zone they had to order it, will receive in two days. I guess I can do everything else and then do the master and bleed the system.

I really appreciate all of your help thanks a lot.
Johnny
 
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 09:31 AM
  #22  
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Hank
I was going to try and send you a picture of my cross member, but while I was shopping at auto zone online I found the picture of mine.

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

I modified my profile, and I sent an instant message to myself, it worked, try it.
Johnny
 
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 11:30 AM
  #23  
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so it is held by bolts! see if you can PM me and I will respond to it.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 01:52 PM
  #24  
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Hank
The instant message will not work for me any more. I guess I'll have to wait a week or so.

Anyway if I had the fly wheel back from the shop I would be busy today.
Thanks to you
Johnny
 
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 01:41 PM
  #25  
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well how has the situation improved as far as rebuild? Have you had any luck with the PM portion yet? I will try again
 
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 01:43 PM
  #26  
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Hank85713
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JP check your message settings this is the message I am getting;

jpj64 has chosen not to receive private messages or may not be allowed to receive private messages. Therefore you may not send your message to him/her.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 04:23 PM
  #27  
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Hank,
All is going well.

I have the transmission out and cleaned up.

I had a little trouble finding those steel Dorman cup plugs P/N 555-108 or Dana P/N 219-3052. to replace the rubber rail plugs. I found them at O’REILLY’S.

I read somewhere the other day that if I refaced the fly wheel that I should use new bolts with lock tight, also on the new pressure plate.
Is this common practice?

The weather is beautiful, but did not do anything else on truck. The wife had other ideas!! When you’re retired you seem to go with the flow.

Btw, my profile is not the problem it’s the system.
Message
Email and PM privileges are not enabled for your account. You must be a member of this site for at least 15 days and have at least 50 posts before you can use the email form to contact other members.
This is due to abuse of the system by spammers and scammers.

I guess it had a glitch the other day, I put my AIM in my profile and sent myself an instant message because it only worked that once.

Thanks,
Johnny
 
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 04:29 PM
  #28  
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jpj64
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Originally Posted by Hank85713
well how has the situation improved as far as rebuild? Have you had any luck with the PM portion yet? I will try again
Hank<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

I forgot to tell you. I'm also waiting for those studs to come in Monday, for the transmission alignment.<o></o>

Johnny<o></o>
 
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Old Mar 9, 2008 | 04:07 PM
  #29  
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jpj64
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Originally Posted by Hank85713
well how has the situation improved as far as rebuild? Have you had any luck with the PM portion yet? I will try again
Hank,
I'm through with putting my transmission in but I can't remember where that "D" plug wire goes could you help me with a location, I must be blind.

Also I have the master off, that wasn't to bad, but I took out the fender well to get to it, going to bench bleed tomorrow and install. Wish me luck on that. I have read the horror stories on these threads about bleeding.

Thanks
Johnny
 
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 12:05 AM
  #30  
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Hank85713
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not sure on the wires, there are some for the backup lights, the ones for the VSS also as I recall. Mine had one set up on the right side, the other were down by the speedo plug in.

Best I can do sorry.

Thea easiest I found for the bleeding of the master is the way I described a while back. once you have it installed remove the piston to get the air out.| I think its posted on the tech items at the beginning of the page.
 
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