Fuel leak
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Fuel leak
The drain valve for the fuel filter housing was leaking, so I went and bought a new one. That one still leaked, so I took it back and swaped it. Well, the next one still leaked. I got mad and tightened the crap out of it. Well, it quit leaking. I drove it up the road to see. It was fine at first then seemed to loose power. When I got back home, the entire valley was full of diesel. It wasn't the drain valve this time, it was the return line that goes back to the tank. The threaded part which connects it to the housing is broke back up in the fitting and it too tight to get out. When I pulled the line away, diesel emptied out from around the drain valve. I'm going to replace the broken part and lines, but does anyone have a clue how to get the drain valve to stop leaking?
1999 F350 7.3 CC DRW
1999 F350 7.3 CC DRW
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Junior User
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Originally Posted by rbaker6336
I have a feeling you didn't get the housing completely clean
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Blairsville,Ga
Originally Posted by Turbodiesel600
Yeah, it is completely clean. Turns out the filter housing is warped. How does that happen? The guy at the Ford place said it is going to cost between $500 to $600 to replace. I think I am going to see what I can do on my own. Any suggestions?
online store have housing from $290 to $340 but that's still a bunch
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Originally Posted by rbaker6336
think before I spent that much on a stock filter I would do a delete and install a frame mount
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: La La Land
It's a fuel heating element. Unless you are VERY cold, you can run without it. I know it gets cold in Georgia, but not regularly.
It would be very different if you lived in Northern Minnesota.
The suggestion of a fully-regulated fuel system is a good one, faced with the situation you're in.
Pop
It would be very different if you lived in Northern Minnesota.
The suggestion of a fully-regulated fuel system is a good one, faced with the situation you're in.
Pop
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: La La Land
There are a number of them are sold by our forum sponsors. Most are a little different, but accomplish the same thing.
Just make sure that there is a REGULATOR in any you choose. You MUST have a fuel-pressure regulator in your system.
I have no doubts that a number of users will give you their opinions on the ones they chose, with the pro's and con's.
I know you probably need your truck back on the road ASAP, just don't hurry this decision, as it's an important one.
Pop
Just make sure that there is a REGULATOR in any you choose. You MUST have a fuel-pressure regulator in your system.
I have no doubts that a number of users will give you their opinions on the ones they chose, with the pro's and con's.
I know you probably need your truck back on the road ASAP, just don't hurry this decision, as it's an important one.
Pop
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Melbourne, Ky
The filter housing retails for around $500.00. If you have a buddy that has a resale number like a garage, he can probably get it for around $250.00 to $300.00, and you can change it yourself. It's not that hard to do. While you have it apart, you will want to change, or at least inspect the 2 hoses from the fuel pump. Check the inside, that's where they come apart and plug up. Not just any type of hose will do. You will want to get it from Ford or International. There is a lot of heat around them and regular fuel line won't hold up. By the way, the heat shield on them, just pulls off.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Millbrook Alabama
Hey Turbodiesel600, I have a spare fuel bowl housing if you need it. You will have to transfer the drain, and the brass fittings from your old one to this one, but its not warped. It is yours if you want it, no charge, just help someone else out when they are in need.
BUT, as Marv said if I was going through the trouble of pulling my old one off, I would just get a regulated return kit with a fuel bowl delete. the RR works better than fuel bowl and will help to remove some of the air in the fuel.
Look here for a great kit http://www.itpdiesel.com/store.php?c...on=show_detail
BUT, as Marv said if I was going through the trouble of pulling my old one off, I would just get a regulated return kit with a fuel bowl delete. the RR works better than fuel bowl and will help to remove some of the air in the fuel.
Look here for a great kit http://www.itpdiesel.com/store.php?c...on=show_detail
Elder User
Joined: May 2007
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From: Rialto, Ca.
Originally Posted by bdrummonds
I have a spare fuel bowl housing if you need it. You will have to transfer the drain, and the brass fittings from your old one to this one, but its not warped. It is yours if you want it, no charge, just help someone else out when they are in need.
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Well, I had to try one more thing before I forked out a few hundred dollars. I took a piece of chemical resistant, rubber like gasket, and made a gasket to fit between the drain valve and the filter housing. It was about an eight of an inch thick. I made it to match up with both of the holes. I bolted it all back together, cranked it up, and NO LEAK!!! Did that Saturday and still not havng a problem. Figured I would share since it worked.
Thank yall for your advice. Bdrummonds, that was a very generous offer. I really appreciate it. Not many folks would do that any more. Just another reason I love this place.
Thank yall for your advice. Bdrummonds, that was a very generous offer. I really appreciate it. Not many folks would do that any more. Just another reason I love this place.
Originally Posted by bdrummonds
I have a spare fuel bowl housing if you need it. You will have to transfer the drain, and the brass fittings from your old one to this one, but its not warped. It is yours if you want it, no charge, just help someone else out when they are in need.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
Originally Posted by Turbodiesel600
Well, I had to try one more thing before I forked out a few hundred dollars. I took a piece of chemical resistant, rubber like gasket, and made a gasket to fit between the drain valve and the filter housing. It was about an eight of an inch thick. I made it to match up with both of the holes. I bolted it all back together, cranked it up, and NO LEAK!!! Did that Saturday and still not havng a problem. Figured I would share since it worked.
Thank yall for your advice. Bdrummonds, that was a very generous offer. I really appreciate it. Not many folks would do that any more. Just another reason I love this place.
Thank yall for your advice. Bdrummonds, that was a very generous offer. I really appreciate it. Not many folks would do that any more. Just another reason I love this place.
