Hey guys, I just picked up an '85 f-150, and the clutch kicked the bucket 5 miles down the road. Turned out it had what looked like the original clutch. Well, after the new clutch, it has a very hard time shifting into 1'st and reverse. Any ideas? The shop told me that it was probably the syncro's, but it shifted fine for that first 5 miles I had it. Possibly just the shift linkage? Also, anyone know what the 4 spd. manual with the larger (11" i think) clutch is?

 

is it hydraulic clutch or cable? check for problems with either of those first.
1st and reverse do share the same synchro i believe.

if the shop is worried at all about customer service, they should definatly take a look at it for you and check their work just to make sure.

 

Its a hydro clutch, and I'll make sure Its up on fluid. However, the shop's 500 miles away, so I can't quite take it back How hard are the syncro's to replace?

 

Other than 1st and reverse, how are the rest to shift into? The new clutch master cylinders come with an adjustable rod, whereas most of the stock ones were not adjustable. I fought that for awhile on my 85 bronco.

 

More than likely, you have the Borg-Warner T18. If it is, only 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears are fully synchronized helically cut gears. 1st and reverse gears are spur cut gears and are not synchronized and harder to engage. Which basically means that you have to be at a complete stop to shift into 1st and reverse, ie. can't downshift into 1st. And also, spur cut gears are noisier than helically cut so it will sound louder in 1st and reverse.

 

so 1'st gear I can get in going maybe 2-3 mph, but no faster. I pretty much start in second, because It's getting really hard to get into 1'st and reverse with the truck running. 1'st doesn't normally grind, but reverse grinds quite a bit for some reason too.

As for the rest of the gears, they are ok. If i double clutch it they go in a bit easier.

 

The adjustable pushrod is available separately.
Did the '85's have the firewall flex/tear problem too? I dunno, my '87 is a later body style.
If they did.... Ford sells a "kit" w/ 3 bolts, a triangular plate and longer studs for the m/c.
Have someone step on the clutch while you watch the master cylinder, you might be surprised!

Oh, have you tried re-bleeding the slave?

 

I'll be quite honest with you guys, I know less than nothing about clutches. I have no clue where the clutch master cylinder is (all I've seen is where you put the fluid in, and they didn't replace that) If that is the master cylinder, it doesn't move when the clutch is pressed in.

 

Yes it is.
Ok, next see if if the slave cylinder (under the truck, on the side of the bellhousing) is pushing out on the clutch release arm when someone pushes on the pedal.

 

An '85 should have the hydro clutch. Check to make sure the clutch pedal is depressing the clutch cylinder all the way. I recently had to readjust the clutch pedal for the same reason! The petal should snap back to the stop after you take your foot off it. If not then an adjustment will fix your problem. My truck ground and fought every shift untill I got that petal set. Now she's a 2 finger shifter!

Good luck, DEAN

 

The pedal does snap back, but it feels like I should be able to push it another inch or so for the clutch to fully disengage. I'll check for the clutch cylinder being actuated in a minute.

 

So the actuator moves an inch or so, but I have no way of knowing how much its supposed to move.

 

Take it to another shop, or get someone familiar with clutches to look at it for you. It sounds like the clutch is not disengaging all the way, and if you drive it a lot like this, it's not good for the tranny.

 

I suppose I only need to get it into 1'st maybe a dozen more times before I'm done with the truck...well the motor/tranny anways. Maybe I'll take it apart and school myself when I'm at home, but for now, no time/money = no fix I guess.

 

Looking at your shift lever, does the "1" in the H pattern engraved more towards the dash then the "3"? If so, you have a NP435 with granny low and you really don't need to start in first gear any way. They are notoriously difficult to get into first and reverse because of the straight cut gears as someone has already mentioned.

If the "1" and "3" are engraved inline on your shifter ****, then it's most likely a T18.

Did they replace the pilot bushing when they did the clutch? If not and the input shaft is hanging up, it won't stop completely when you push the clutch in and it will be harder to get into first and reverse.