hi Kionga,

propane is approx. half of the price off gas, that's why my lincolns drive on propane.
2 of them have a bi-fuel with an Impco 300A on them, wich is a bit loss in power.
The 3rd wich i'm prepping now with (soon other heads) edelbrock intake, and a Impco 425 Gas carb. Ignition is completely replaced bt a MSD distributor, SS-Blaster coil, 9mm wires, and a MSD-6A Cd box.
Propane however, is in the netherlands a mix of 40/60 butane/propane in winter, and 60/40 in summer. So no 100% propane.

Now, i'm talking with some guys and they suggest to put a rebuild and trengthened AOD in it. It seems to have a lock up converter (didn't know that, is important to me!)
I always thought the C6 is a beast, and the AOD ain't a better tranny...
Some people tell me different now...
What's advice?

thanks.

ps. in the fuuuuuuture i want to get a posi-lock or something like that in my rear axle. Also want some serious power out of my 400
Anybody got some advice on headers? No answer from Sanderson's yet if the FC3's will fit my application.
Wanna see some pictures of current space i have for them?
Compression needs to be uppe'd however.

 

Get a Detroit True-Trac for your rear axle. It's a gear driven posi; no clutches to wear out. Silent operation (no "clacking" noise when you turn a corner). Similar to the Torsen units made several years ago.



http://www.nationaldrivetrain.com/sh...ml/page44.html

As for the computer controller for the E4OD, Baumann makes a stand alone unit (no ECM or engine computer required). This allows you to add the E4OD to your existing NON-computer controlled vehicle.

http://www.becontrols.com/products/electronicscat.htm

 

I think that with your present rear ratio, you do not need or want an OD unit, but if you want to do burnouts with that Lincoln, then a 3.50 or 3.73:1 raio will be needed. Then you will need an OD unit to get the good mileage, but since OD units add friction, the mileage will not be quite as good as you can get with the present setup.

I have a Torsen posi unit on my '53, along with Sandeson FC-3 headers.

 

okay.
So, for my understanding, without numbers, the best thing i can do, is gear the rear a bit lower, and get an overdrive, so that when driving in overdrive i have approx. the same ratio as i have now, but have 3 gears downward, instead of currently 2, so i can jump off faster.
Correct said?

Or would i try to get in the middle of both: first gear being lower as current, and overdrive a tad higher as current, for fuel economy.
Then, for instance when towing, i can shut off the od, and still have a fair economy, right?
How about the AOD? i hear so many negative stories over it?
The AO4D seems to be better, but also larger and electronic. Now the electronics ain't a problem, but i'm not sure it would fit in my tunnel...

The truetrack sounds good indeed, and not too expensive also.
Can i install it myself, or do i need to have it done by a specialist?
Are there more people here with expirience with those?

thanks.

 

Here is a link to Lentech Transmission. They sell beefed up AOD transmissions, and adapters. You can buy ($$$) a bulletproof AOD and adapter to mate to a 400. It will work without electronics, and will fit your tunnel.

You should contact Lentech for details.

http://www.lentechautomatics.com/rwdmodels.html#

 

Hello Steph.
That is the problem with trying to run dual fuel set-ups; a compromise that does no justice for either fuel. I know nothing about the Impco 300A carby, but do you need to run gas with it? The problem with using a normal carby in a dual fuel set-up concerns the gaskets. Because the gaskets in a gas carby are moistened by the liquid gas they remain supple and form a good seal. However, if you try to run propane or propane/butane only with the same sort of carby then the gaskets dry out and crack, hence leaks occur. Therefore you need to run gasoline every so often to keep the gaskets in working order. I understand the Impco carbies do not need to be periodically maintained with gasoline?
A tip is to run on only propane/butane, get your distributor recurved for this fuel, prepare your heads to run on propane/butane and tune accordingly. Not only will you get more power and torque, you will also get more economy.
That is why I run on dedicated propane/butane on all my vehicles with the 400.
If you want to use an AOD then go for an increased numerically diff ratio. You will save fuel in stop-start traffic, gain more bottom end and obtain a rev range similar to your present diff on the highway.
Hope this helps.
Craig

 

Kionga,

The Impco 300A is a gas mixer wich goes on top of your carburetor, thus using the valves of the carb. As the carb itself is a (small) restriction, the result will not be 100% optimal, and it shows itself as a decrease in power, and some more fuel consumption.
That's why i converted this car to propane only. I have a new holley 640cfm wich i intend to take with me (i'll try and adjust it first) when i go on large trips, such as vacation. There are some county's in europe where propane is very hard to get, and when i come up empty, i'm able to switch to gas in half an hour.

I contacted nationaldrivetrain for the true-trac, wich is very nice.
Now, i'm calcul;ating, and need some help.
Paul told me he had a nice truetrac that will just fit in, and has a ratio of 3.00:1 (wich is what the advices say over here, right?)
Currently i have 2.47:1, so it has approx. 20% more RPM's to make for the same speed. Still correct?

Now, the gear ratio of a stock C6 is: 2.46:1 / 1.46:1 / 1:1
The gear ratio of a stock AOD is: 2.40:1 / 1.47:1 / 1:1 / 0.67:1

so, for instance, when the engine is running 1000RPM's, we drive on a highway, so in highest gear:

C6: axle 1000RPm, Wheels: stock 2.47:1 =405RPM // truetrack 3:1 = 333 Rpm
AOD: axle 1493Rpm, Wheels: stock 2.47:1 = 605 Rpm // Truetrack 3:1 =497 Rpm

now 3 things:
1) how do i correct the odometer, cruisecontrol, etc.
2) Am i getting a lot more noise and wear, vibrations, etc. due to a (much) higher spinning axle underneath my car?
3) when i don't change the tranny (for now), the rear wheels spin less rpm with the 3:1 ratio, obvious. But what will it do to economy?
I calculated that my highway RPM of 2100 will increase to 2550Rpm!
When switching to the AOD (wich has a lock-up converter, that pleases me!) will my economy increase due to the lock up converter to justify the swap? ( i also hear that the C6 needs a lot of horses for itself...)

Does anyone have expirience with the AOD? I read a lot of bad stories about it, but i also read that it's upgradable to a very very strong tranny... What's wisdom?

Sorry for all these questions, but this is new to me, and i want to make a good dicision.


oh, PS.
When i choose the AOD, i can switch off the OD when i want to tow something heavy, and i'll remain the 1:1 ratio of the 3rd gear (wich is equal to the C6 3rd gear) and in combination with the 3:1 differential, a increase in towing capacity due 20% less rev's...

 

how much are they selling an aod for? an aod has 4 front gears right?

 

$730: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AOD-M...em350026693630

$1700: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AOD-A...em200200281342

$1200: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...em170194277253

$1200: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AOD-A...em200201026570

$700: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...em170195337899


So i think it's safe to say that a good strong rebuild AOD will be for sale for $800-1000

 

hmmm not so bad....

 

the cruse control needs no adjustment. it simply maintains whatever
speed (according to the speedo) you were going when you enabled it. it doesn't care about rpm or drive ratio or if your speedo is not accurate.

as for the odometer/speedometer, you need a new speedo gear of
the correct ratio when you change your final drive ratio. This is a simple
swap done at the transmission end of the speedo cable (at least on a C6 - not sure about the AOD...)

whatever driveline shop you have do the work should be able to calculate and install the correct speedo gear drive...

 

ok.
searched and read a lot by now.
It's quite an operation as far as i understand.
The AOD, AODE/4R70W are only for small blocks available, wich is my biggest problem. There are some adapterplates though, wich cost a fortune again.
Then, as the AODE/4R70W is much stronger as the "known as weak" AOD, i'd like to go for the best option.
So, a 4R70W cost' approx. $1750
Adapterplate $500
Computer: $700
Driveshaft adaption $300 (estimated)
Set's me back almost $3500 (calculating small things with it)
That's more as what it's worth to me for now.
So, if there are no better options, i think i let the idea go...
Not sure on those differential gears though, as i will be running higher rpm at highway cruise...

hmmm...
life is hard sometimes...

going to read about tthe A4OD, and see if i can make that fit...(and what it cost')

 

hmmm what about something home made, a bellhousing is just that, a support, beside what are you bulding ? fior 400hp and maybe more an weak aod is worth...

 

You can get a Bulletproof AOD and adapter from Lentech for less than that and it need no electronics.

 

The cost of fuel was not the only cost factor we suggested "Yugo" & "Skota" for . Its the total cost you should consider. Now you are catchin on!

The AODE & 4R70W are just upgrades to the AOD with electronic shifting. The upgrade parts for the AOD are, for the most part, parts from those and non-electric shifting is retained. The supercoupe guys are pumping a lot of HP and TQ through them and surviving. Any tranny you use can give problems from time to time when pushed, even the mighty C6. One mod for the AOD/AODE/4R70W that is highly reccomended for longevity is doing away with the lock-up converter with its 2 piece shaft and using a regular "slip" converter to absorb the impact of harsh shifts---plus some other things. DanLee gave you the best solution for the AOD, Lentech.

Yep, you are gonna drop some green for all this stuff. Still is valid that you could by a lot of extra gasolin for the price, and just go engine work with lower gears.

I have an E4OD case that I cleaned and painted preparing to rebuild it (one of these days--yea right ) I will try to take a pic of it along side a AOD for reference, provided one of you guys give me a bump start on how to post in the thumbnails. I dont think it will be an easy fit even with some bodywork equiptment. Those tunnels are usually only big enough to accomidate the tranny combos offered in the body style, of which the C6 was the biggest.