I'm building a 400m engine, bottom up. This is my first Ford engine, and this forum is VERY helpful. Basically, I've been buying parts as the they come up for cheap on Ebay. I bought a set of parts from one guy that included a new cam. It's a Crane 278 and it has a duration of 278 and lift of .539". I hope it's not too much for a torque engine for a 79 Bronco. What's y'alls opinions.

Also, I want to get some roller rockers and have contemplated the cheaper (probably chinese) CAT items. What's peoples experience here (not just telling me they're crap... I want facts here) This isn't going to be revving high, so I don't need race quality parts, just good low wearing parts. Also, what about SS vs Alum for my application?

 

Cam's not to much for the 400.. As for

Also, I want to get some roller rockers and have contemplated the cheaper (probably chinese) CAT items. What's peoples experience here (not just telling me they're crap... I want facts here) This isn't going to be revving high, so I don't need race quality parts, just good low wearing parts. Also, what about SS vs Alum for my application?

OK here's my experiences with Cat product...
I picked up a set off Ebay for the same reason you did .. "Cheap"
Just trying to save a buck ...
OK when I got them I didn't really notice the size of the roller bearing in them till one let go on my 435 stroker motor. The spring clip broke and ##### the bearing out, the roller fell off the valve stem and it landed on the aluminum part of the rocker. It still ran but I knew something broke cuz I could hear the clacking of the .050 valve lash.
When I replaced them with a set of Cranes Roller Rockers I had on my other 426 Stroker motor, That's when I seen that the size of the bearing was 2X bigger and I learned that day it pays to go with the good stuff from the beginning.
I still buy parts off Ebay But I make sure the good ones to begin with Or I get them from Jeg's or Summit......

 

Seems like crane makes a roller conversion for the stock rockers that replaced the fulcrum. It's not much cheaper than full on rollers though. I'm still thinking about that mod, right not I'm concentrating on other things.

Good luck, you will enjoy the looks of surprise on peoples faces when you tell them it's a 400.

 

Uh, .539 lift is a bit much for the stock pedestal style 5/16ths bolts, If you have not done it already, have the heads machined for screw-in studs and guideplates(hardened exhaust valve seats a plus!). Don't go cheap here, if you are going to run this cam. You also need a set of valve springs, something around a comp cams #972-16(call them to verify), and more than likely you will also need to machine down the valve guides to allow for teflon seals, more for retainer clearance than sealing ability, but the teflon seals also last forever. Make sure that you are running good valves, with that much lift you are putting quite a bit of strain on them, old valves in new engines do not last that long.......Get the good roller rockers and round out the heads........
Probably forgetting something.........

 

I've got it machined for the 7/16" studs, and bought Speed Pro SS valves. I'm not sure about the seals being machined (I bought the head with the machining done). I'll have to compare them to the stock ones I guess, when I pull them off. Do they use exactly the same seal, just machined down?

 

It is good that the work was done already. Do verify that the hardened seats were put in, it is real easy to tell by yourself.

No, the stock umbrella seal is different than the teflon seal. The valve guide outside diameter and height is machined down to a smaller size(the guide inside diameter remains the same), and the teflon seal clamps over the remaining guide by means of spring loaded clamp(use a socket to push them on). The teflon seals last alot longer than the crummy umbrella seals, which are toast pretty early on.

 

I have heard that it is good to stick with the stock umbrella seals for the exhaust valves and go with the teflon seals on the intakes. Otherwise the exhaust valve stems will not get enough lube.

278 on the cam is a mite big for low end torque but you will certainly get HP!!!!


Thanks for using FTE!





[font color=red]As a Moderator I do not "Subscribe" to most topics,
please send email/pm if you need a reply -Thanks![/font]
-

 

why does every body spend the money to convert to an adjustable valve train? the stock valve train is more than adequate for any hydraulic cam not using anti-pump up lifters. just shim them and forget them. as far as to much lift and not strong enough i run a .555 lift cam and turn 6900 rpm's on my circle track car and never had a valve train problem. the bolt has plety of support from the fulcrum.just my opinion spent the money somewhere else

 

Some people do waste their money on an adjustable valve train. I've run the stock 5/16 bolts for years, but maybe I've been lucky.

It's good insurance to convert to 7/16" or 3/8" screw in studs when the heads are rebuilt. (what's the going price?) You may decide on a bigger cam later.

 

I picked up a set of pedestal mount roller rockers. They weren't cheap but they weren't a whole lot more than buying a new set of std steel rockers and fulcrums. They arent adjustable except by shims but then I intend to set them and forget them. I also don't have to worry about the polylock nut backing off or guide plates and hard pushrods. Why would I want to take a giant step backwards to Cheby style wobble rockers when I have a stable valvetrain that the Cheby boys pay BIG bucks for.

Thanks for using FTE!





[font color=red]As a Moderator I do not "Subscribe" to most topics,
please send email/pm if you need a reply -Thanks![/font]
-

 

Hello again....
The personal reason I have for switching to the adjustable rocker setup is durability with larger lift cams. I have seen 3 clevelands with broken 5/16ths bolts where the cam lifts ranged from .510 to .590. It is simply insurance on the durability issue.

Adjustablility. It is kinda hard to run thru the rockers and set a 1/4 turn preload with the pedestal setup. Yes, you can shim the stock rockers, but hey, it takes me longer, and I would like to finish before bedtime. I know that there are the pedestal roller rockers that have the adjustment bolt over the pushrod cup, but then I get back to the durability thing.....(nag, nag....)

I think the best setup to run over all of these would be a shaft-mounted roller rocker system, as I think the chevy style wobble rockers are a little silly to use the pushrod as a centering device.
Hey, maybe drill out the pedestal mount roller rocker fulcrum and head stand for a 3/8ths bolt?
thanks for letting me ramble.....

 

one other thing to remember is NOT to use the aluminum fulcrums and don,t over tork the bolt . all the fulcrums are the same between the windsors ,429/460,351/400

 

Back to the subject....

Has anyone had experience with the CAT rocker arms. I'm leaning toward their stainless ones. If I was building a high rev engine, I may not, but I do want them to last.

As far as the rocker stud question, it's a mute point. The heads I bought have 7/16" studs (with no hardened seats btw), but that's what I"m using.

Keith