ceramic's are the only way to go


they will sweek when cold but they will out last and perform any other
i got mine from rockauto cheaper than i could get middle of the road pads at the autoparts store

 

I just did my rear breaks first time ever i did disc breaks . They where easy to do.
i got mine Napa parts 55.00 . Got new rotors 65.00 .
They had three prices for pad 30 45 55 . 55 were ceramics i dont know if all of them are ceramics.

 

If you have the money, I would highly recommend the HAWK LTS or Severe Duty Pads with a Power Slot Cryo Treated combo.......i can slam the brakes on at 100mph in my dually and narry any wobble, fade or anything......they work very well and continue to do so....

 

I use Bendix Titanium metallics on everything I own. I've gotten good service life,excellent stopping power,and only moderate dust with them.
I'm on the 2nd set on the company truck now,and they average approx 70K miles before they need changed out.
JL

 

What grit paper and how do you know when the glazing is gone?

 

I just got new brake pads from Napa(The expensive ones). They didn't come with the anti rattle metal clips.(Also known as a retractor clip) Ford Dealer says they don't sell them seperate. They come with the pads. I had one missing on my old ones. Pad got down too far and I think it rubbed off the metal clip. Getting these clips seem to be a problem right now. I suggest if your doing pads. Make sure they come with these clips. getting them after seems to be a problem.

 

On my last brake service I had the rotors turned and I used NAPA's ceramic pads. They were my first ceramic pads. I have been very happy with them. Much improvement over stock. They ran me about $90 for the pads.

 

I use Wagner Thermoquiet's, great pad and not that expensive IIRC.
As long as the rotor has no scoring, or a large ridge around it you do not have to turn it.
You can run a piece of sandpaper over it until the entire rotor has light scratches on it giving the pad a surface to seat into.

 

Rockauto ROCKS!!! I always price compare when I shop online and since I first found them about 6 months ago Rockauto is always cheapest on everything for some reason. I bought a box of 10 plugs for my boat engines, rear wheel hub assemblies and Akebono (sp.) ceramic brake pads for the Volvo SUV, just received a Motorcraft oil filter for the SD today, etc. and each time they are simply cheapest and easiest to deal with. After you order something they'll send you an online discount code for another 5% as I recall for future orders.

 

I used the NAPA ceramics on mine they were about $65.00. I turned my rotors before installing the ceramics an the truck now stops on a dime. I will not hesitate on buying another set when the go. An added benefit of the ceramics is no more brake dust on the wheels either.

 

Okay. I finally found some anti-rattle clips. You can get the following motorcraft part number (BRPK5777) for 2005 and up... Its a package for the rear. I am sure it is the same for the front as well. As suggested RockAuto has them... When researching I found that site as well. Nice site. Thanks for the suggestion.
MOTORCRAFT Part # BRPK5777

 

I used the ART slotted cryo rotors with ceramic pads made by centrix (i think) and they are awesome. I have had them for 15k so far.

 

Always turning rotors is a myth invented by brake shops to make more money!

These are mostly the same (lazy and/or incompetent) shops that automatically take the rotors down by the same amount every time instead of carefully inspecting the rotor and using a runout gauge to determine the minimum amount of metal to take off.

Auto manufacturers don't challenge the myth because it avoids the potential liability for some idiot who doesn't turn a scored or warped rotor, and their own dealers are among the worst shops advocating this usually unnecessary money-maker. Of course the rotor manufacturers love this myth because it vastly increases the sale of new rotors to replace ones that get turned twice and are too thin to turn again.

 

Oh really?

The problem with not turning the rotors is what you don't see with the naked eye. I assume because you know this is a myth you have done the process yourself? You have instituted the techniques you mentioned?

Turning the rotors with a pad change isn't a myth, it makes for the BEST brake job. Just like cleaning and lubricating the sliders with the proper lubricant, and the shims with the proper lubricant. EVERYTIME. There are no shortcuts when it comes to brakes. PLEASE!

Sandpaper?

Really?

Glazing is a process where the binders (glue) in the pad material are over heated and are deposited on the surface of the rotor. This is rare with today's pad technology.

However, during the seating process, a layer of pad material is deposited into the surface of the rotor. The best job is to have this layer evenly transferred onto the surface of the rotor.

Many factors affect how this happens. Most importantly is the surface and consistency of the rotor. Can you assure that the sandpaper will leave you with an even surface for the friction material to transfer to? How about minimum thickness variation (also known as parallelism). Taper? Dishing? Runout? Do you measure your rotor for these factors when you DON'T machine them?

The majority of the time there is some abnormal wear that over time can build up. When the pads wear out, it's a perfect time to restore the rotor surface to a true, even, flat, parallel surface.

Your pads come out of the box flat, smooth and even, shouldn't your rotors match?

In my opinion, and I don't know this for fact, but I think that is why companies like BMW and Mercedes among others design their rotors to wear beyond minimum specs during the life of the pad. They WANT you to change them. Not even machine them on a commercial lathe, but replace them too!

There are several good bedding procedures out there, however, in this area I have found that a few days of reasonable driving can do a good job of it. It is very difficult in this congested area to find a place to do a proper initial bedding procedure. Some areas, or if you have the time to drive somewhere to do it you can.

Unfortunately you are right, there are many shops out there that don't take the pride and time in their work to do a top notch job like I do.

 

what kind of driving do you do if you run it fast any high pro brake pad is good before i cut any rotors i would mike them to see if cutting them , they would still be in specs because if you cut them and run them hot and get them wet and cool them down to fast they will worp i put all new brake pads rotors and use caliper lube for the pins that way you dont have to mess with them for a while.