How often would you get the plugs re-torqued and what kind of plugs & wires are you guys runnin'?
2000 F250 V10 CC SB 2wd 4.30.

 

I think the torque interval is like 30k miles. I always figured if your going to the trouble to pull all the COP/Boots off you might as well change the plugs....just my thinking.

Motorcraft or Autolite single platinum plugs seem to work the best in the V10.

 

i changed mine and checked them after the first tank of gas. all of mine were good to go!

next change i'll torque them down and let them go.

the Autolite Platinum 103's are the same as the MC version, and they are the same company, just different package!! so instead of paying $4.00 per plug at the dealer, pay $4.00 for 2 at wally world!!

 

Jason, I was checking at WW the other day and they had AP103, single Platinum. Is that what you went with? They didn't have APP103's. What torque did you go with?

 

yep i was directed to the AP103's.........the dealer told me the double plats weren't needed! and the OEM MC plugs were the same as AP103's, and he told me not to mention same company!!

i torqued them down to 14ft/lbs or 168in/lbs, and i re-checked them after about 300 miles and none of them loosened up.

 

Hi Jason, do you use any of thet "never seize" or whatever it's called on the spark plug threads?

Willis

 

i did not use any anti-sieze. i read one post where a guys plugs were loose after a 1000 miles or so and he used anti-sieze. on his next change he didn't use it, cleaned the old stuff off and didn't put any on the next change, and they stayed tight!

 

Allied Signal does manufacture the Motorcraft plugs,but they ARE NOT THE SAME as Autolites. Ford has very strict specs for their plugs,Autolite is not held to these specs.
Always use Anti-sieze...In approx 600K miles of driving modulars-I've never had a plug loosen,I've never had a plug blowout,and I've never had a stuck,stripped plug because I use Anti-seize. I also NEVER attempt to torque the plugs-the oddball angles you're working with and multiple extensions are asking for trouble attempting to torque plugs-tightening them down good without overdoing it is the key,and using a torque wrench and relying on it to "click" when it's right will get you damaged or stripped threads.
JL

 

The anti-seize agent is used to prevent a chemical reaction from forming between the mating parts of two metals - especially between two dissimilar metals such as steel (plugs) and aluminum alloy (heads). This oxidation will breakdown the properties of both metals, but more rapidly in the aluminum alloy, causing the threads to gall.
The correct application on these plugs is just enough to coat the threads - and that's it - no more.

The only time this process doesn't take place is in a vacuum - like in outer space - which there's only one person here that drives their truck in outer space (as far as I know) ....and he's wa-a-a-ay out there.... I won't call names, but y'all know who he is...

 

^^^Good stuff.

You also can't get an accurate torque measurment on dry threads. Even with a lubricant on the threads there is still quite a bit of friction to overcome. Don't use alot of anti-seize, jub a dab will do ya. best to put it on the bottom of the threads nearest the ground bar so the anti-seize coated all the threads as you screw it in.

I use a rubber hose to start all the spark plugs, it gives a better feel and eliminates cross threading.

 

Hi John, we bought our MH with 102K mi on it. It was supposed to be up to scratch on maintenance, tires plugs filters all the goodies. Cost $700 for the inspection and work. At 110K #3 popped and took the coil with it. We were 1300 miles from home. Some one didn't do something right, and I sure don't want to go through that again. I've been researching this since last Nov. and what I'm finding is that the #3 plug on the E series and the #5 on the F series are the most common blowout failures. On the E series the #3 plug is the most difficult to get at and I suspect it's a similar situation for the #5 on the F series.
What to do? I find from information posted on various forums, that there are mechanics who work in Ford dealerships who never use a torque wrench on spark plugs, and there's a group who religously use the torque wrench albeit at 14lb-ft (most popular), and at 30lb-ft and 20 lb-ft. Also divided are those who use the anti seize and those who do not. One person (a newbie) who tightened his plugs (without a torque wrench) stripped all the holes in one head, however I don't believe this will happen with regard to a professional serviceman.
When considering all the information, the number of modular engines on the road divided by the number of thread failures, this type failure is not a common occurance. There seems to be equal success regarding use of torque vs. non torqued and use or non use of anti seize on the threads. So that leaves us with the conclusion that an error is being made when installing a plug that blows out, especially plugs located in the difficult locations. Whether this is tightness, distorting the aluminum threads or seating (dirt, carbon) I don't know, but somewhere there is a reason, and in discussions it will be discovered.
Thanks to all who are participating in this thread.
Willis

 

Sounds like you pretty much covered it.
JL

 

Thanks John. Eegarding Big Orin's post This is new information to me also what dkf has posted and now all certainly has to be considered. Also in the back of my mind is a fact that a junction of two disimilar metals when heated will produce a small voltage (milli volts) which no doubt adds to the pot. In any case the paste no matter how thin the film, would also interupt this action.
Again thanks
Willis

 

*****,
Back when black-oxide plating became the best method of preventing oxidation, the process was not regulated very well, but it was really effective. Parts could be "coated" via a chemical process that would protect the metal from all sorts of applications - even metal-to-metal wearing surfaces. It became a lubricant, in other words.
During the late-80's when the EPA began testing soil and water samples at some of these plating sites, they forced the plating companies to cut down on the process, which ultimately made the process ineffective.
Now there are cheaper means, but at the same time, have far less protection. Any plating process that is used on mating parts, from slides to threads, also acts as a lubricant.
Having said all the above, even though the plugs we get these days do have a "plating", it is so thin that during the installation process, that plating gets rubbed off. That's why it's important to add anti-seize for the extra protection.

The proper torque is also attained when you apply anti-seize. Some engineers will disagree, but they like to talk about "types of thread" and forget about mass production and tool breakdown. In a perfect world where threads are mated, then I could see "true torque" attainable with little or no lubricant. But, when one company taps the hole and another company threads a plug, there's no "total mating" of those parts.

 

Good Post, I didn't know that and it does make a lot of sense. I came across more information, what it's worth right now I'm not too sure. There has been so much partial information about spark plug maintenance that when put together a person has to proceed with caution.

Taken from a chart on this site
http://www.densoiridium.com/installationguide.htm

Spark Plug size 14mm Taper Seat
Cast Iron 7-15 lb-ft
Aluminum 7-15 lb-ft

Then in regard to Ford's 7 to 14 lb-ft, the 7 lb-ft would equate to the 1/2 torque value when using anti seize. I don't know though, 7 seems pretty light.

From another Poster

Click for Deep Spark Plug Socket
Might be something to this why certain plug locations are prone to blowout and a torque wrench becomes valueless.
and shows one half turn for the flat seat plugs and 1/16 turn for taper seat plugs from a finger tight position. Certainly justification for the experienced mechanic who has been doing this all along for ages.

I wonder if we have enough information now, probably not

Willis