Have you looked the frame(s) over for cracks, rusted/thinned out areas, etc...?

If you need the spindles and hubs, I'd look into a disc brake kit from Speedway, CPP, etc..., a toyota PS box since you would need to modify/buy aftermarket steering column, and buy new springs anyway, since originals are pretty old by now. Expect new kingpins/bushings, draglink for Toy. PS box, etc... It all adds up in the end, but to use the truck for towing, I'd start with upgrading the braking system, and swap a 57-72 9" rear in.

 

why is it better for straight axle and towing? ifs to soft? what about putting the axle on top of the springs? and putting wider springs in the rear?

 

You really ought to read thru the "IFS options" thread (sticky at top of forum), it explains all the factors.

You can't put the front axle on top of the springs, it just doesn't work in a lot of ways. Wider springs in the rear would require a fair amount of work, not clear there would be a benefit.

 

Hi, I live in Kansas City. I'm stripping my 50F-1 of all suspension (complete). I see you live in MO. You haven't put your city/state in the right side of your replys. You can have (free)the entire suspension as soon as it warms up. Email me at n67ec20@hotmail.com if you want it. Have a great day,chuck

 

You have to remember the context when your truck was new. There was nothing "glamorous" about owning a pickup truck in 1952. They were strictly a work vehicle for poor farmers and tradesmen that were worked hard and most rural roads were nothing more than dirt paths. The trucks were poorly maintained, and used and abused until they quit.
They were simple vehicles with little concern for creature comforts, heck, even the heater was an option back then. The suspension was tough and high so they did not get hung up hauling a load of hay or building materials across a field. Seldom were they driven much above 30 mph or more than a few miles from home, hardly ever washed except by a rainstorm, and wax was used on moustaches, Sunday shoes, and wooden floors, not to make paint shiny. They were a purpose built vehicle and served that purpose well, that's why so many still exist today.
The best advice I and most other's here cn give you is to first sit down with a pen and paper and make a list of characteristics and uses you want your truck to have, and then re-sort them by importance to you. Next honestly assess your skills, tools, budget, time frame, and place to work on your truck.
The more changes and updates you make, the more costly, time consuming, skills and tools and space will the project become/require.
A realistic rule of thumb for someone able to do the majority of the work themselves and with a large enough shop (typically more than a cosmetic update requires at least an average two car garage that will be taken up totally for the duration of the build) is that it will cost $15-20K and 3-5 years of steady spare time work. Yes, there are exceptions to every rule, but there is usually some trade off to move much outside this rule.
The more you want the finished project to be used as a working truck the less changes you should/need to make from it's original design.

 

thanks alot for that peice of information. i have kinda decided what route i would like to go with it

 

AX has given you the best advice. You need to start with a plan.

I am setting my 49 up to tow up to 5000#. 72 9 inch rear and a Jag XJ IFS.

 

As always, great advise AX.

 

If we read very carefully the reply from AX, it becomes real clear that the text should be saved and just re-inserted every time the question comes up. Kind of a mini sticky. I guess it could just be saved in a word file just to see how many times we could use it , just for kicks I suppose.
Chuck, more great wisdom and well written also.

 

i still think im going to leave the straight axle in the front for simplicity and the fact that its a hot rod. im sure a good set of springs and shocks and asway bar and it would drive fine.