Got my gasser SOLD to a new owner on Thursday, so my hunt for a PSD is on full-force now. I found one today that I'm very interested in- 97 F350 crew cab, 4x4, 5 speed, 128K miles, new clutch, new tires, full XLT in really good shape. I've got the dealership down to $11950 out the door for it, which is a pretty good price really. My question is- what are the important things to check over on the truck before committing? I know that checking the turbo for dusting is a biggie, as well as checking the valley for fuel- what else should I be checking? I know there is a checklist somewhere for pre-purchase inspection but I couldn't find it.
Also a quick question- the oil pan had a fair amount of oily goo on it. The water pump is leaking (dealer will replace prior to purchase, I already hit them on that one) which might be the source of some of it, but what other places would be good to check for leaks? They are letting me have the truck for a few hours tomorrow to check it over again- what should I be checking for and where?

 

That is a heck of a price for that truck. Buy it before someone else does.
http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_i...az/index3.html

 

i got my 96 xlt psd for 8300. new clutch, very clean inside, 5spd with 128k on it. been very happy with it and for the price i got on it i have no regrets. that price on the 97 is still really good tho, cant pass it up.

 

61 uni- Baz's page was the first place I went, but it seemed like there was a more extensive list somewhere. I'll dig around and see if I can find it, I was in a hurry earlier.

 

The following is courtisy of Mike, Tenn01PSD350, in the 99-03 forum:
I'm sure there is more but it's a good start.

1. Visual: Body and rust are obvious items, nonspecific.

A. Engine

1) Check for any obvious fluid leaks, especially the engine valley, tranny weep hole area, and around the turbo and pedestal.

2) Check coolant with strips and find out the record of any changes or water pump replacement based on mileage.

3) If possible, do compression check, and Cylinder contribution test.

4) Inspect turbo inlet side vanes, should be straight and not dusted or jagged. Try to move the shaft in and out and up and down. Any real noticeable movement by hand is bad. Open and inspect air cleaner assembly for an idea of how it was maintained.

5) If possible, have fuel pressure tested at engine to check pump.

6) Check all intake /intercooler boots for residue or leaks and correct before trying to determine engine condition.

7) Look at oil pan for notorious rusting, make sure not beyond repaint type repair.

8) Know whether you're getting forged or PMRs. 99-mid 01 = forged, anything later is possible or for sure PMR. Not an issue until you exceed 400HP.

B. Transmission, driveline and 4x4 system.

1) Look for any obvious leaks.

2) With the system in 2wd, grasp and rotate both front drive axles and ensure they rotate freely. Go to the hubs, ESOF and manual should rotate from lock/auto to free with no problems.

3) Grab rear driveshaft and push up and down along it's length checking for worn u-joints or bearings.

4) Check front and rear differential levels. (An indicator of maintenance) Level should be at or w/in 1/2 inch of check plug.

2. Test drive. If you have never owned a 7.3 PSD, try to get a 7.3 owner to test drive it. I did this with a friend who bought his new. Invaluable evalation because you have no idea. A stock PSD may feel like a slug to the gasser uninitiated but it can pull a house off of it's foundation. So here we go.
A. Drive more than one PSD truck that you are considering. Whether Auto or Stick, it will give you an idea of the overall condition of the one you want to buy. Cost = 0. Learning curve = super high. Dealers have a ready supply.

B. Startup. Turn key and watch wait to start light. The colder it is the longer it will take but should take no longer than 15-20 seconds on even cold days. Start engine. Should crank readily and turn the tach while cranking (although mine does not). Should start within 2-5 seconds of cranking. The colder it is the longer it will take but if longer than 5 seconds there may be a problem. Even in colder weather. If it does not not start easily on the second try, suspect problems, possibly in the glow plugs or GP relays. If it does not crank readily, or seems to drag, suspect batteries first, starter next, then cables.

C. Driving. Check all operational items. Don't be rushed. This is a major investment and you want to get it right. Even small items like the cruise will set you back.

1) Auto tranny: will feel like it takes the throttle to get moving with a stocker. The higher the mileage, the worse this will be. The shift should be smooth but slippy with a stocker. Long to engage. Convertor lockup will be almost imperceptable, but there. Will lock up at about 45 to 60m depending on throttle in OD. Should drop out of OD with input to brake or reduction of speed.

2) Standard: give input

3) Ride: if it is bouncing down the road, you can look to having some problems to take care of. These can be tire balance. Tires, or some unexplained seemingly incurable symptom that you may have to live with which is unacceptable and not common, but does happen. Some say it is an out of balance driveline but there is no universal cure.

4) Exhaust drone. Only happens with aftermarket exhaust due to what I believe is harmonics resonating in the thinner walled aftermarket systems. Not a big solution at present but not a performance issue.

5) Performance. There is no hesitation in the PSD 7.3 when all is in working order. Any hesitation is an indicator of a problem. By design, if all is in order, at throttle tip in, it simply responds. No excuse such as mileage considerations. This = repair bill.

 

Thanks Cuda Jim, that's the one I was looking for. (I just found it in the articles section too!) Another question for the experts out there- this morning while the truck was cold I noticed 3 things-
1. When letting off the gas, the truck would make a jake brake type sound, I'm guessing this was EBPV malfunction?
2. Also noticed that it never quite got up to operating temp after ~1 hour of driving around. Water pump is leaking (and dealer said they will replace), possible bad T-stat or something else?
3. Lastly, quite a bit of white smoke on a cold start, which I'm guessing is GPR problems, correct?

 

I saw the thing that says new clutch

Make them show you the new clutch papers.

Both my fords have had P/O's claim new clutch, and both were origiginal ford clutches, or poorly installed replacements.

 

1. Probably, does it go away by mashing the throttle?

2. Make sure the dealer installs a new thermostat when they do the leaky water pump. Get a 203F stat if you can.

3. A little white smoke is normal when starting cold. If it's getting difficult to start and blows lots of smoke + chugs a lot after it fires then the GP or GPR need attention. Ask the dealer to install new ones, can't hurt.

 

1. Yes

2. I'll mention the 203 T-stat if I can get a deal I'll be able to live with on the truck.

3. Is it normal for there to be white smoke for say, 5 minutes or so after starting? The salesman had it fired up this morning when I arrived and it was puffing white smoke (no idea how long it had ran). As soon as I started driving it it went away. They did mention the PO had done some glow plug/GPR work not too long ago and somewhere they have an extra GPR that the PO left for the truck.

As far as the clutch, it was done by the PO and definitely has a stiff pedal! I wasn't able to pull the inspection cover but I doubt anyone would put another dual mass in there. Even so, at least it's new and should last a while.

A few more things I forgot to mention- what's a typical RPM for a 5 speed at 75 mph? This one turned about 2220 at 75 (it has the factory AIC so I could read RPM very accurately).
Also forgot the first time, when you press on the go pedal there is a slight bit of free travel, and you can hear a "click" in the sensor before it starts to go- I remember reading somewhere a long time ago that this is an easy fix, is that true?
The dealer also told me they'd knock $1000 off if I wanted to take the truck as-is and fix stuff (like the water pump) myself but I figured better to spend the $1000 and let them go through and fix anything that might be wrong and save me the wrench time. Should I just try to get them to take the $1000 off and worry about the mechanical stuff myself?

 

How many things are they going to be fixing for $1000? if the WP is the only thing I would take the 1K off and run!

 

BTW the free travel in the pedal is normal and easy to fix with some fine tuning of the throttle pedal sensors.

 

The white smoke can be normal if it's left ideling. It needs heat to get rid of the unburnt fuel.
White smoke = unburnt fuel
black smoke = too much fuel
blue = oil burning

I'd shoot for $1000 off and they fix it too, all they can do is say no. But that's just me.

 

The truck hasn't been through a mechanical inspection yet, I sniffed it out just as it was coming out of the detail shop- the Armor All they used wasn't even dry when I pulled up! What they told me was that for the $1000 they would fix anything they find wrong with it, which so far includes: water pump and coolant flush, oil change, and a new rear window. What they'll actually fix is another story of course I'm at my folks house right now, 8 hours from home and we are leaving tomorrow morning some time. I may just go back in tomorrow morning with a lowball "as-is" offer and see if they'll take it and hit the road. If I let them fix it, I have to try and figure out a way to get back next weekend to pick it up which will be a huge PITA.

 

I would try to get the front end jacked up while you have the truck for inspection to see if it need ball joints or tie rod ends. With you list already and add ball joints to it I would just let them fix it!

 

I'm always for, let them fix it and get a warrenty with them.
Water pumps are not fun, but doable yourself.

Stiff clutch does NOT mean its a new clutch. I have a m5od 5 speed and my clutch is "stiff."