Problems with Tranny #3, '94 XLT
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Problems with Tranny #3, '94 XLT
I have a '94 XLT. I am on the third trasmission in 5 years. The first was probably due to overheating when towing (did not have tow package). So the Ford dealer replaced it and installed a cooler. Then I started having symptoms, it would not down shift when stopped at a light, so they replaced it again, no charge. Now, when its cold, it will not shift out of first unless I manually go through the gears. After I do that once, it will be fine the rest of the ride.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Are you getting the fluid replaced? I don't trust rebuilt transmission. When mine went out, I had a reputable shop rebuild my transmission. That way, they have complete control over what parts were replaced, and to make sure everything is in order. My rebuild cost a LOT more than a ready made rebuild, but they actually beefed mine up.
Failure to engine in first gear is a possible indication of old fluid or low fluid. Get new fluid before your tranny gets toasted. When the fluid is cold, it, like other materials, contracts. If the fluid is borderline low anyway you will have problems. What i think is happening is that the fluid is low, so the tranny slips because it can't fully engage the bands. That superheats the fluid and causes it to expand. When it expands, the bands engage. But this superheating cooks the fluid and also scorches the bands. If ignored, this condition will ruin the rest of the tranny. The fluid should be replaced at least every 30,000 miles, more often if you tow or do a lot of stop and go.
Failure to engine in first gear is a possible indication of old fluid or low fluid. Get new fluid before your tranny gets toasted. When the fluid is cold, it, like other materials, contracts. If the fluid is borderline low anyway you will have problems. What i think is happening is that the fluid is low, so the tranny slips because it can't fully engage the bands. That superheats the fluid and causes it to expand. When it expands, the bands engage. But this superheating cooks the fluid and also scorches the bands. If ignored, this condition will ruin the rest of the tranny. The fluid should be replaced at least every 30,000 miles, more often if you tow or do a lot of stop and go.
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I only have about 8k on it since the last tranny replacement. I still have a lot of warranty time, but to take it back for something I can do. The fluid should not be old. Also, I had this symptom when I first got it back, but it went away. I need to double check the oil level when hot and parked level. Last check it looked fine.
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Originally Posted by aquanaut20
The coolers collect debris when the tranny is damaged, if they are not removed and cleaned out you will have reduced flow, especialy when cold.
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From: BC Canada
Originally Posted by jwirth
The cooler was not added until after the first tranny replacement. It did not overheat since.
Were they cleaned thoroughly after #2 went bad?
What was the diagnosis for the second failure?
If it clogs up and reduces flow, it may not overheat but could cause all kinds of headaches with valves and solonoids.
I have installed an inline filter for the transmission, it not only filters to 5 microns but is an additional cooler, installed first on the exit line it collects all kinds of debris before any of the other coolers.
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Oh yeah, the internal cooler. Hmmmm. Don't know. I have no idea if its ever been cleaned. I think I replaced it once before the first tranny failure. Leaked like a sieve. Wait, its all starting to come together now. One thing leads to another. I bet those ****ty mechanics never thought to clean it. That might explain the numerous issues.
Could a plugged internal cooler keep it from downshifting at lights also?
Could a plugged internal cooler keep it from downshifting at lights also?
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Former ******
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Downshifting at lights is probably an adjustment issue, though to be sure, what transmission are we talking about here? Do you have the V6 or the V8?
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Originally Posted by Bear River
Downshifting at lights is probably an adjustment issue, though to be sure, what transmission are we talking about here? Do you have the V6 or the V8?
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Pa
I just had Tranny #3 put into my sisters 95' 4.0l Expl. 160k.
The tranny shop installed the a shift kit and some kind of valve body mod he has been installing in all explorer trannies hes been rebuiding which is supposed to make them last longer.
The rebuilt tranny downshifts into first when slowing down, I'd say at between 5-10 mph. The Ford reman that was in before didn't do that. I figured it was something to do with the shift kit or other mod.
Make shure the tranny shop fixes everything right.
The tranny shop installed the a shift kit and some kind of valve body mod he has been installing in all explorer trannies hes been rebuiding which is supposed to make them last longer.
The rebuilt tranny downshifts into first when slowing down, I'd say at between 5-10 mph. The Ford reman that was in before didn't do that. I figured it was something to do with the shift kit or other mod.
Make shure the tranny shop fixes everything right.
Last edited by dkf; Feb 14, 2008 at 07:07 PM.
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Originally Posted by dkf
Make shure the tranny shop fixes everything right.
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With mine, they upgraded the bands and clutches, and also put in a heavy duty torque converter. The shifts on mine are firm, but mine is hard to force to downshift, and it holds into the higher gears too long when decelerating. With mine the problem is the adjustment on the kickdown cable. The adjustments keep slipping, so they are thinking of using a clamp to secure it in place one the setting has been dialed in.
Delayed engagement is usually a sign of low or old fluid. Check it when cold with the transmission in park on a level surface. If you check it when heated, it will expand and appear to be normal. But if you check it cold, you should be able to spot a low fluid condition more easily. It should make it to the bottom mark on the dipstick when cold.
Delayed engagement is usually a sign of low or old fluid. Check it when cold with the transmission in park on a level surface. If you check it when heated, it will expand and appear to be normal. But if you check it cold, you should be able to spot a low fluid condition more easily. It should make it to the bottom mark on the dipstick when cold.
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Originally Posted by Bear River
Delayed engagement is usually a sign of low or old fluid. Check it when cold with the transmission in park on a level surface. If you check it when heated, it will expand and appear to be normal. But if you check it cold, you should be able to spot a low fluid condition more easily. It should make it to the bottom mark on the dipstick when cold.