V 10 gearing
I have a 2000 4x4 V10 with stock 4.30 gears I think that the origional tires were 31's. I have since added a 6 inch lift and 315 x12.5x16 BFg AT's i tow a 13000 + lb tow hauler. Yes thats right 13K+. In some of the discussions before it was suggested to moce up to a 4.56 or 4.88 gearing,. This would then change me back to close to what the truck had been designed for.
Whats are you thoughts.
I get 13 MPG at about 70 ish not towing, TOwing on the falts I get 7. and 5 uphills. I live in So Cal and we have hills.
Thanks for your help
It is my STRONG opinion that a 2V V10 should be mated to a final drive of 4.30 when in direct drive (3rd gear on our 4R100's) for STOCK 31.6" tires.
Given that your tires are NOW 35"?...a rear end gearing of 4.88 would achieve a final drive in 3rd of 4.41. A bit deeper than the 4.30's...but given the LOAD you are tugging...deeper isn't a bad thing.
You can run your own numbers here : https://www.ford-trucks.com/calculat...re_sizes/a-td/
For a point of reference...I don't tug anywhere near what you do...so scale my input accordingly...
I roll down the road at 17,000#'s. I have stock 31.6" tires and 4.30's. This summer we pulled on I-64 in West Virginia thru the Appalachians...there are a few 5 mile long 7% grades...IF (big if) I could hit the hill at 3200RPMs I could pull the hill at 70mph...lose 3200RPMs and I'd have to down shift to 2nd and only pull the hill at 60 BUT at 4200-4500RPMs.
IF I had slightly DEEPER gearing...I'd have slightly higher RPMs at slower speeds and wouldn't have to run 70...
So in my experience...this V10 LOVES 3200RPMs...with the taller 'effective' gearing you currently have (3.88's)...you likely experience frequent downshifts on those hills given the weight you are rolling down the road at.
I'd have to say...swapping my 3.73's to my 4.30's was THE SINGLE BEST thing I've done on my Ex.
BTW...you will be able to SELL those 4.30's in a HEARTBEAT...that is the PREFERRED gear for those of us that tow with STOCK tires...
Hope this helps.
joe.
33's and 4.30's would produce an 'effective' final drive (in direct 1:1 drive) of 4.10...a good gear.
What is the 'intended' use of the truck after the gear swap?...if towing HEAVY (near 10K#'s)...If you are paying to swap already...I'd opt for 4.56's and that would result in an 'effective' final drive in direct drive of 4.34...BETTER solution IMO...
BUT if NOT towing...then the 33's and 4.30's would be a good combo...it's all in what your use of the beast will be...deeper gearing will 'slightly' hurt MPGs...but with how heavy most of our right foot is...I don't think you would really notice it...well I guess if someone was a salesman that ALWAYS drove constant straight highway trips...sure the deeper gears would hurt MPGs...but in 'mixed' driving...too many factors BESIDES gearing will alter tank to tank mpgs...
joe.
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33's and 4.30's would produce an 'effective' final drive (in direct 1:1 drive) of 4.10...a good gear.
What is the 'intended' use of the truck after the gear swap?...if towing HEAVY (near 10K#'s)...If you are paying to swap already...I'd opt for 4.56's and that would result in an 'effective' final drive in direct drive of 4.34...BETTER solution IMO...
BUT if NOT towing...then the 33's and 4.30's would be a good combo...it's all in what your use of the beast will be...deeper gearing will 'slightly' hurt MPGs...but with how heavy most of our right foot is...I don't think you would really notice it...well I guess if someone was a salesman that ALWAYS drove constant straight highway trips...sure the deeper gears would hurt MPGs...but in 'mixed' driving...too many factors BESIDES gearing will alter tank to tank mpgs...
joe.
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4.30's and 33's would have you slightly on the low side of the sweet spot most of the time...
If I were paying...I'd go 4.56...then if you ever decide to go 35's on the truck...you've already got some room on the gears...vs having to possibly upgrade AGAIN...
joe.
4.30's and 33's would have you slightly on the low side of the sweet spot most of the time...
If I were paying...I'd go 4.56...then if you ever decide to go 35's on the truck...you've already got some room on the gears...vs having to possibly upgrade AGAIN...
joe.
4.88's and 35" tires (what I proposed) in 3rd gear at 65 would 'likely' be 3100RPMs
I can't see HOW that would screw up MPGs...well it will be WORSE than what you have NOW...but what you have NOW isn't a good towing gear...IMO for the WEIGHT you are towing...sorry...
You are likely with your 4.30's and 35" tires in 3rd gear at 65 at 2600-2700...right?..so YEAH the 4.88's would be worse for MPGs...but you are tugging 13K#'s!!!...you need GEARING...IMO...
4.88's and 35" tires (what I proposed) in 3rd gear at 65 would 'likely' be 3100RPMs
I can't see HOW that would screw up MPGs...well it will be WORSE than what you have NOW...but what you have NOW isn't a good towing gear...IMO for the WEIGHT you are towing...sorry...
You are likely with your 4.30's and 35" tires in 3rd gear at 65 at 2600-2700...right?..so YEAH the 4.88's would be worse for MPGs...but you are tugging 13K#'s!!!...you need GEARING...IMO...
Did u tell him how much weight u were towin? If u did, Tell the guy at that shop to get his head out of his as*


