Narrowing 9 inch

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Feb 11, 2008 | 10:28 PM

Witty73

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From: Minnesota

Narrowing 9 inch

ok guys, I have been giving this alot of thought. Has anybody ever narrowed their own rearend? I talked to a local machine shop, he told me no problem. Worst part is, he told me how he does it. Basically, cuts em, grinds the flanges rewelds them in a jig. I was thinking.....since I am going with mosier axles and I am pretty **** about measuring 400 times before committing that it would be possible to clamp it in my band saw or cold saw, clean up flanges, put it all together and clamp everything straight and true with a couple of tack welds, and spin wheels to see how true it is. Weld as necessary? Any thoughts, please keep the laughter to a dull roar.

Feb 11, 2008 | 11:20 PM

ChaseTruck754

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From: Costa Mesa, CA

the only thing you have to be worried about is warping due to the heat during welding. You can weld it and have the guy you talked to check the straightness for you.

Currie Enterprises out here straightens them for customers after they have widened, shortened or welded a truss on them.

Feb 11, 2008 | 11:40 PM

Witty73

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From: Minnesota

Yeah, I had thought about the heat issue, figured on working my way around in short welds and taking my time, figured on adding the gusset later. I dont know if he can actually mill anything if it ends up untrue.

Mar 26, 2008 | 12:04 PM

Witty73

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From: Minnesota

I dont know if this will be of any use to anybody, but I have recently performed the narrowing I made mention of in this thread, and have decided to share some pics for anybody for future reference.

I wanted to narrow the 9 inch to a 60.5 wheel track width to match the MII front end in my 74 f 100. After lots of research I decided against purchasing the jig from Chris Alston Chassis works and fabbed up my own. I glued scraps of 3/4 inch oak together out of my woodshop and cut them down with a 3.5 inch hole saw. Then I used my buddies turning lathe to turn then down to precisely the correct size to accomplish this process. Couple that with a 1.5 inch shaft I scavenged and you get a very easy and prescise jig. Took my time tacking the ends back on and working my way around to minimize warping. Here are the photo links.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...nmentpucks.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...priortocut.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...leaftercut.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...rwithpucks.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...xlelinedup.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...lelinedup2.jpg

I will include a picture of the finished product once I get the new axles installed.

Mar 26, 2008 | 12:18 PM

ChaseTruck754

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From: Costa Mesa, CA

let us know how it works out for you. Looks like it should be ok.

I would have gone with a .250 wall 2.5" dia. or so tube (tube is actually stronger and less likely to bend than a solid rod) through the middle and then used aluminum or copper instead of oak (they dissipate heat very well and won't catch fire), but you did well with what you had access to! Very nice "budget" jig.

Mar 26, 2008 | 12:26 PM

Witty73

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From: Minnesota

I agree with you no the aluminum, but this was very cheap and cost effective to do. I only have the case of beer my buddy and I drank making the pucks into it. LOL

Mar 26, 2008 | 12:37 PM

ChaseTruck754

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From: Costa Mesa, CA

exactly - like I said - great job on making due with what you got! Just have a buddy there while you're welding as it can be hard to see flames through a welding mask. Don't ask me how I know this...