I was going to post this in the 4x4 section, but decided here was better. I know how to do the swap on gassers, but not on my oil burner!!!

My truck currently has an E4od and sterling 3.55L axle. What axle could I get to fit underneith the front without switching to leafs.

Also what is required to change my E4od over to 4x4? I'm not worried about shift linkage, as I want to put in a push button transfer case. I know in my ranger all thats involved is the module behind the seat for the transfer case, I assume this is the same for the full size.

And I know I'm gonna hear about reliability issues...
That ranger has over 181,000mi on it now. Original tranny(a4ld) transfercase, and auto locking hubs. I use the 4x4 often in it, and it's never failed me. The tranny shifts and locks up like it's new. No problems with the hubs either. But I also attribute that to me keeping up with proper maintenance. Flushing the tranny and adjusting the clutches. Keeping the auto hubs clean and dry graphite lubed. Operating the transfercase at least once a month. EDIT: just like with the 92, and the M5od original. Works great. All my trucks work great, pull hard and get put away wet. That 92 currently weighs 6500lbs with the tools in it. It sometimes pulls a tandem with a furnace that weighs in excess of 5000lbs. It doesn't complain, and nothing breaks.

So that aside. What am I looking for to get this done. The truck is strictly a work truck. But living in the northeast, you can't live without 4x4. I almost got stuck last night pulling a 7,000 trailer... backing down a strait driveway... with a very slight grade... down...

 

You need a 4x4 diesel trans first.......

Springs will be leafs.....

Transfer case will be a BW1356

 

Knowing how hard it is to find a diesel tranny, what is involved with swaping out the main output shaft to go to a tranny.

The only reason I wanted to go coils, is I didn't want to fiddle with installing shackles/hangers.

I guess I should be a little more specific. I know whats involved with swaping a gasser f-150 from one to the other, but not HD series. I guess the only way to avoid not putting leafs under is to go with a 44HD TTB axle?. Was there any newer axles out that used coils instead of leafs.

And if I couldn't find a e4od with transfer case, I guess I could go divorced. As far as the abuse this truck will take, it's almost none. I don't do any hard core 4x4ing. I just hate getting stuck in mud or snow. I'm also not afraid to fab anything up. My wife said I was born with a mig in one hand, and a wrench in the other.

 

To replace the rear output shaft of the tranny, you are going to have to tear down the transmission completely. The outoput shaft is the last thing to come out, and since everything disassembles from the front, everything has to come out. You can get a donor trans to scavange for parts, I know the diesel and 460 E4ODs have identical hard parts, or you can try ohio city salvage, they usually auction off E4OD parts on Ebay. I ordered from them a few times, and they are honest to deal with. Prices are dirt cheap too.

I have thought about the D44 TTB swap, but am not sure whats involved, or if anyone has ever even attempted it. Most want the stronger D60 under the front, since its bullet proof, and easier on the tires, especially with the heavy diesel weighing it down. Its possible that its a bolt on job, but I doubt the springs will be the correct height. My understanding is the the only difference between the D44 used in the bronco/F150s and the light F250s is the suspension, and the the hubs. if the traction beams are the same than you may be able to adapt raduis arms on a D44 out of an F250, or do a hub conversion on the setup from an F150.

Installing shackles is not a big deal though, if you were born a weilder it should be easy (metal fabber here too ). You can make your own, get some from a wrecker, or even get them new from ford. The only cutting involved is to notch out the frame at the lower edge for the front shackle (drilling also required), and add some reinfocing at the same location (this part can also be scavanged from a donor or made from scratch)). If you look under the front end of a 4wd from the late 80s that has the solid axle or even TTB, you'll see there isn't much to it.

 

Thats one thing I haven't been able to do, is look at a comparable 4x4 and see what's all involved. I was just figuring that the springs and shock mounts are there.

I also like the ride of front springs, and I thought newer trucks all had them. Ideally I think I'm leaning on trying to swap my ranger for a rolling chassis with all the parts needed to do the swap. Even if I had to rebuild the E4od, just to put the 4x4 shaft in, that's not a big deal. Would be a good time to upgrade to the (I think) '97 spec' anyways.

I still think I may also look into getting either a D44 out of a 150 and swaping out the hubs, or a D50 and welding on some spring perches and shock mounts.

Loaded or empty this truck rides like a caddy now. The best riding p/u I've ever had. I would like to keep that, and add 4x4 just for those winter/work-site traction issues.

 

The Dana 44HD and the Dana 50 both used leaf springs in the 250 and 350 lines.

The F 150 was the only 4x4 Ford truck that used coil springs on the front axle.

Just looking the only real difference I see between the F150 alxe and the F250 axle is the 250 has 8 lugs and 16" wheels and leaf springs where the F150 has 5 lugs and 15" wheels and coil springs.

I never looked at swapping hubs to convert one to the other, you may have to swap everything from the steering knuckle out to do that.

I can say that I am very happy with my Dana 44 HD to Dana 60 swap, less broken parts and an extra 10,000 miles out of a set of mud tires.

 

Is your D60 leaf?

That probibally will end up being the route I take. I think I am going to see about getting an axle, and custom building it with hd springs, track bars, and such.

I know the coil idea is strong enough. From the f-250hd to my f550 all use coils up front. I just need to make sure I can control the torsion and latteral force, while leaving enough flex as not to break anything.

 

Yes it is.
Ford just started using coils on the 4x4 trucks bigger than a 150, in either 05 or 06.
Before that they were all leaf springs.

 

will the front of the frame handle the leafs???

i saw a truck forsale converted and the frame was messed up where the leafsprings were bolted up at the front, was that just a hack job and weakend the frame?

 

The actual one piece rail is the same from the 2wd to the 4wd, or at least very close (diesel uses slightly thicker steel). But the 4wd is supposed to have portions of boxed reinforcing on the front end to better spread the load, not to mention that the 4wds are designed for a little more abuse.

 

I believe that the 2wd front crossmember will interfere with the front axle, so you will have to do some redesigning and fabrication to make it work.

I think that no matter what you do, you definetely want to go with a monobeam axle and leaf springs over anything TTB. It will be easier to do and will hold a load better than coils. The new Ford 4wds went to coils for comfort, not durability or strength. If you model your suspension from a 85-97 F350 4wd, you will be happy with the results. They handle great.

As for the transmission, transfer case. You might have better luck finding a married unit from a wrecking yard. Then you could have them disassembled and checked or rebuilt. Or have your current trans internals installed. You may find it difficult to come up with the output shaft and adaptor to fit your transmission.

Jason

 

On the 86 model, the fame is boxed a little more toward the front of the frame on the 4x4 than it is on a two wheel drive.
As I remember it was only about 6" difference, but I also think it would have to be added since that extra box wrapped around the front spring shackle.
The bolt went through the frame, the shackle and the extra boxed area.

Just looking, I think the cross member will work after you remove all of the 2 wheel drive front suspension parts, they look the same.

Sure would be a ton of rivits to cut off to swap the twin I beam stuff out and the leaf spring stuff back in though.

 

I prefer a oxy torch to get the rivets out. With a steady hand you can heat the rivet just enough to blow the head off, without damaging the parent material.