zf removal
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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zf removal
I just bought a Luk flywheel converison kit for my 89 f250 4X4, stupid flywheel went bad and the clutch started to slip. I decided to start taking her apart last night. Figured I could just slide the tranny back to get to what I needed, but the tranny will not seperate from the back drivers side of the engine. I took out six bolts, they were the only bolts that I could see. So I figured if I took of the transfer case it would give me a little more working room, but I still couldnt see where the tranny was hangingup at. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this problem. Everything is disconnected and and the tranny mount is removed from the frame. I just don't understand why the tranny will not just slide off the back of the engine.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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I put a bottle jack (with block of wood to protect the pan) toward the rear of engine. Left the trans bolted to cross frame. Unbolted the cross frame to side frame and greased where it contacts side frame. Blew a hole in transmission jack saddle for drain plug to fit in. Adjusted both jacks for weight balance and slid transmission back.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I would say you have the input shaft in a bind.
Either the motor has tilted to the front or back or the transmission is tipped one way or the other or possibly it is shifted to one side a bit to far.
As for the starter, the bolts are only in the spacer and do not go into the bell housing on a T 19.
I see no reason for it to be different on a ZF.
Everything has to be in line just right before it will slide out or back in.
Either the motor has tilted to the front or back or the transmission is tipped one way or the other or possibly it is shifted to one side a bit to far.
As for the starter, the bolts are only in the spacer and do not go into the bell housing on a T 19.
I see no reason for it to be different on a ZF.
Everything has to be in line just right before it will slide out or back in.
Junior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 64
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From: ohio
Just remeoved and reinstalled a zf5 4x4 last week.What worked for me was lifting the trans with a jack slightly.At the "right" height the trans slid out relatively easy.If it was too high or low it wouldn't budge.Same with installation.Another thing that really helped with reinstallation was guide studs.I bought 2 - 5" bolts that were threaded about 1.5" cut the heads off and tapered the cut end.These were threaded into the motor and guided the trans/belhousing straight into the clutch/flywheel/motor it took some fine tuning movement to seat into the pilot bearing but the studs really helped.Just make sure they are long enough to be removed once the trans is seated.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Same Problem
I am having a similar problem with my zf 5 speed 4X4. I have tired to tilt the jack up down and every angle I could think would help but it will not budge. ALl the bolts are removed from the bellhousing and all lines are disconnected. The starter is out and the shifter input has lots of clearance. Any more advice would be appreciated.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2008
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Same Problem
Thanks for the reply. Yes I'm 100% sure all the bolts are out, I got the 2 at the top. Everyone I have asked has said its a matter of having the angle correct. I have pulled one of these before though and it just slid right out. I'm stumped.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Is it seperating any at all?
Look and see if there are any gaps, top, bottom, left or right that would indicate a bind on the input shaft.
When all the angles are right, they slide right out or in.
When the angles are wrong, it just will not move at all.
Been there, know your frustration.
My bet is the engine has the input shaft in a bind.
Look and see if there are any gaps, top, bottom, left or right that would indicate a bind on the input shaft.
When all the angles are right, they slide right out or in.
When the angles are wrong, it just will not move at all.
Been there, know your frustration.
My bet is the engine has the input shaft in a bind.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,594
Likes: 2
From: Southern Oregon USA
I think someone mentioned earlier to use a jack and block under the oil pan.
You want to get the engine as stationary as possible. It makes for a real PITA when you're trying to move the transmission and the engine is moving with it.
Unless you really have it bound up in the clutch or hung in the TO bearing, a prybar in the right spot should get it apart. Normally the fight comes when you are going back together.
Jason
You want to get the engine as stationary as possible. It makes for a real PITA when you're trying to move the transmission and the engine is moving with it.
Unless you really have it bound up in the clutch or hung in the TO bearing, a prybar in the right spot should get it apart. Normally the fight comes when you are going back together.
Jason
New User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 8
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Same Problem
Finally I got the transmission out. The problem seemed to be a small area at the top of the bellhousing that had rusted right at the dowel pin ( I think its called a dowel pin). The rest of the bellhousing was totally clean just that one spot that was rusted shut. Thanks to everyone that replied with advice.