90 f 150 problems
90 f 150 problems
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 550
Likes: 1
From: Hillsboro, OR
Too many.
Welcome to the forum. You will find a great knowledge bank here.
We will need more info. Did it run before? What happend when it quit? Does it turn over? Do you hear anything when you turn the key to run? Fuel pump? Relays? Have you tried to pull codes?
Basically, what I am saying is, give us some history. Keep it less then a book but explain to us what you would tell a mechanic if you were bringing it to him.
Welcome to the forum. You will find a great knowledge bank here.
We will need more info. Did it run before? What happend when it quit? Does it turn over? Do you hear anything when you turn the key to run? Fuel pump? Relays? Have you tried to pull codes?
Basically, what I am saying is, give us some history. Keep it less then a book but explain to us what you would tell a mechanic if you were bringing it to him.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 805
Likes: 3
No spark, no fuel, cold engine. Do i have all the conditions right?
Idea #1: Good indication of bad PIP, or broken fuse link feeding the coil circuit and ECM. Even with a dead ECM, he'd still get spark if the fuse link is good, though. No PIP, though, won't get either spark or fuel. ECM needs PIP to know when to fire the injectors. There are some tests for the PIP, but gonna need a meter. You could take the TFI to a parts house and have it tested, but that would only answer no spark. Even with a bad TFI, unless it's shorting out PIP, you'd still get fuel if the PIP was OK.
One quick check, though, is the fuel pump running for about a second or so when you first turn on the keyswitch? If so, the ECM is at least partially working, and you'll need to check some other things (like PIP) before you go replacing the ECM.
Since it won't start, the only codes you CAN pull are KOEO, and also since it won't start, that means cold engine, and you're gonna get a butt-load of codes that don't mean anything. Gotta get it cranked and warmed to operating temperature before any of the codes mean anything.
Idea #2: While cranking with the dizzy cap off, look to see if the rotor is turning. If not, busted timing chain or dizzy gear or dizzy shaft. Disconnect the coil while doing this, otherwise, you're liable to see some brilliant fire-works if it decides to show you it really does have spark, but it just ain't reaching the plugs. I've seen that spark jump a 1 inch gap if the ignition system is working good.
So, looks like you're gonna need to know how to test the PIP, or how to pull the dizzy and put a new PIP in, if it ain't just a bad cap, rotor, or coil wire coupled with a no fuel condition. If you're not up to totally rebuilding a distributor, you'd be better off just swapping it for a core on a new or reman. It ain't rocket science, but does take considerable patience and the right puller for the gear. On a '90 model, depending on mileage, chances are the dizzy bushings are shot, which might explain the bad pip as well. If the blades on the rotor hit the PIP, it's toast. That's a pretty tight gap, and PIP is a pretty sensitive device.
Idea #1: Good indication of bad PIP, or broken fuse link feeding the coil circuit and ECM. Even with a dead ECM, he'd still get spark if the fuse link is good, though. No PIP, though, won't get either spark or fuel. ECM needs PIP to know when to fire the injectors. There are some tests for the PIP, but gonna need a meter. You could take the TFI to a parts house and have it tested, but that would only answer no spark. Even with a bad TFI, unless it's shorting out PIP, you'd still get fuel if the PIP was OK.
One quick check, though, is the fuel pump running for about a second or so when you first turn on the keyswitch? If so, the ECM is at least partially working, and you'll need to check some other things (like PIP) before you go replacing the ECM.
Since it won't start, the only codes you CAN pull are KOEO, and also since it won't start, that means cold engine, and you're gonna get a butt-load of codes that don't mean anything. Gotta get it cranked and warmed to operating temperature before any of the codes mean anything.
Idea #2: While cranking with the dizzy cap off, look to see if the rotor is turning. If not, busted timing chain or dizzy gear or dizzy shaft. Disconnect the coil while doing this, otherwise, you're liable to see some brilliant fire-works if it decides to show you it really does have spark, but it just ain't reaching the plugs. I've seen that spark jump a 1 inch gap if the ignition system is working good.
So, looks like you're gonna need to know how to test the PIP, or how to pull the dizzy and put a new PIP in, if it ain't just a bad cap, rotor, or coil wire coupled with a no fuel condition. If you're not up to totally rebuilding a distributor, you'd be better off just swapping it for a core on a new or reman. It ain't rocket science, but does take considerable patience and the right puller for the gear. On a '90 model, depending on mileage, chances are the dizzy bushings are shot, which might explain the bad pip as well. If the blades on the rotor hit the PIP, it's toast. That's a pretty tight gap, and PIP is a pretty sensitive device.
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the truck just wouldent start one moring the fuel pump doesent come on when you turn the key on but if i pull the relay and jump wire to wire you can make the fuel pump come on, i change the distiber modgel and nothen there power to the coil but no spark
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