Ford/Sterling rear diff.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 25
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From: Morgantown, Wv
Ford/Sterling rear diff.
Hi Guys, First post. new member. I just removed the Diff. cover from my 94 IDI to install a Richmond gear locker. Much to my surprise, I found about half of the ring gear bolts backed out 1/2 inch (heads rubbing the case) and the rest loose enough to turn with my fingers. Have had a little whine for a while, not enough to indicate any problems. Just thought some of you might have a similar problem and not be aware of it, as I was. Truck has about all the power adders, except water and propane. Water inj. probably next. I pull a gooseneck trailer once or twice a year,(100 to 300 mi.) that grosses 19,500#. If anyone wants more info, just ask.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
smoky john, welcome to the forum.
Can't say I've heard of this before, but have heard of the pinion nut working loose, and one case of a missing ring gear bolt. In any case, it sounds like you caught it just in time. Just make sure the ring gear hasn't worked around too much and will still mesh properly when torqued back down.
What water injection system are you using? I have plans to add water injection or hydrogen injection once I get my diesel back together.
Can't say I've heard of this before, but have heard of the pinion nut working loose, and one case of a missing ring gear bolt. In any case, it sounds like you caught it just in time. Just make sure the ring gear hasn't worked around too much and will still mesh properly when torqued back down.
What water injection system are you using? I have plans to add water injection or hydrogen injection once I get my diesel back together.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 25
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From: Morgantown, Wv
loose bolts and water inj.
David 85 and all: I don't have a water inj. system as yet. I plan on buying the simplest (cheapest) one I can find. I just need to reduce my egt from 1300 down to a solid 1250. More would be better, of course. It seeme most of the kits are linked to computer controlled engines, which is more expensive and does us no good at all. Right now it looks like $300--$400 is the range for me. I don't want multiple stages or anything fancy. The idea of injecting liquid into an IDI engine worries me a bit anyway, I hope "easy does it" works. If anyone else has any info, I would sure like to hear about it. Thanks, John
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 25
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From: Morgantown, Wv
Hi Dave: As soon as I see 1300 I back off the throttle to 1250. When I blew a turbo hose I saw 1400 for a few seconds--I was looking at all the black smoke for too long. I have an ATS exhaust housing and down pipe, then 3" straight to the rear wheel-nothing fancy. I normally see 14# boost on a hard pull, but on the last haul I only got 12#. I can't see anything wrong with the system, So if I can't get back the 2# I will go to water inj. Any Ideas??? No exhaust or intake leaks that I can find. Turbo going south? John Ps hope to meet you soon, I live at morgantown
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Come on down to the WV chapter.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum134/
We were trying to have a northern get together of the WV chapter of FTE.
Something like a meet and eat, probably in Fairmont.
I normally do a couple jobs a year in Morgantown or close to there.
You may need a little work on the intake side of the intake side of the turbo.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum134/
We were trying to have a northern get together of the WV chapter of FTE.
Something like a meet and eat, probably in Fairmont.
I normally do a couple jobs a year in Morgantown or close to there.
You may need a little work on the intake side of the intake side of the turbo.
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,594
Likes: 2
From: Southern Oregon USA
If they have backed off and not pulled the threads out, this is what I would do.
Remove the carrier, remove all the bolts and inspect (I would replace them, when you install the new locker), reinstall the bolts and torque to spec. Reinstall the carrier, torque the bearing caps. Run a pattern around several points on the ring gear. If it looks good and pretty uniform then the ring gear may be ok. If there is a drastic change in pattern, then the ring and pinion needs to be replaced. If there is clearance in the housing, you may be able to leave the carrier in and retorque. I can't remember.
I say to do this with the old carrier so that you will not be trying to chase the pattern with the new carrier, only to find that the ring gear is the problem.
Jason
Remove the carrier, remove all the bolts and inspect (I would replace them, when you install the new locker), reinstall the bolts and torque to spec. Reinstall the carrier, torque the bearing caps. Run a pattern around several points on the ring gear. If it looks good and pretty uniform then the ring gear may be ok. If there is a drastic change in pattern, then the ring and pinion needs to be replaced. If there is clearance in the housing, you may be able to leave the carrier in and retorque. I can't remember.
I say to do this with the old carrier so that you will not be trying to chase the pattern with the new carrier, only to find that the ring gear is the problem.
Jason
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 25
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From: Morgantown, Wv
meetring/introductions and bolts
Dave, I remember some discussion about a meeting, maybe in Fairmont, about the time I started reading the list. Anytime eating is involved,COUNT ME IN!!! If our schedules permit, I think meeting everyone would be great. I will agree to anything everone else can do.
Jason: words of wisdom. I will do all you said, plus I will install the bolts with red locktite. The cover has never been off this diff. or else I would think someone else messed up the torque.
John
Jason: words of wisdom. I will do all you said, plus I will install the bolts with red locktite. The cover has never been off this diff. or else I would think someone else messed up the torque.
John