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I have a 82' 460 shoved in a Bronco that just started having problems. I have an oil temp gauge and for the last year or so would show max about 200 degrees even while towing but now tops out over 270 while under normal highway driving. While the oil is showing hot the water temp never gets over 190. All this is while the ambient temp is less than 35 degrees. It has a remote oil filter located beside the radiator and last weekend I changed out the lines to it, new oil and filter and a complete new temp gauge and sending unit and it still overheats. Anyone take a guess as to what is creating all the heat? I sent a sample in to Blackstone for an analysis to see if any bearings are comming apart.
thanks
A friend of mine is going through the same thing. His 460 is in a motor home . WE thought it might be the c6 behind it but he cooled it down and still no change. He also has an aux cooler. He is now in the prossess of putting a mechanical fuel pump on it and plum it in to the oil pan and try to pump it to another cooler. The r/v has an elect fuel pump and it had a blank cover where he is putting the mechanical pump.Ought to be interesting. I will post the results as soon as I find out something
How the oil pressure? Have you seen a change since this problem arose? There could be quite a few possibilities: (A) Cracked or loose oil pump &/or connections(I've seen it happen) (B) Extensive blowby from combustion process. (C) Partialy blocked oil pump pickup screen. (D) Oil pressure that is too high.
I hope this helps.
I have not noticed any changes in the oil pressure over the last year but I am using the stock electic gauge in the dash. The only 3 add on gauges I am using are oil temp, water temp and transmission temp. With it being winter it's pretty rare when the trans gets up to 130. If the oil analysis comes back ok, I guess I'll try to drop the pan and see what things look like.
I'd like to know too what causes the problem. I have the same problem, except my engine is a 514 in a '83 f100. I also have a problem breaking piston rings, I've broken all 8 cylinders 3 times now. I used some cheap pistons, and that might be my problem. But the oil heating is a problem. I advanced my camshaft 8 degrees (from 4 retard to 4 advance) and that helped, but it still likes to cook oil for some reason. I've tried h.v. oil pumps, h.p., and stockers, with no change. only thing I can think of is maybe my crank and cam bearings are a little loose. I'm building a new engine, and have added a windage tray to see if this helps, and should have it in probably next week. I'll let ya know how it goes.
Oil analysis came back and everything was within tolerances except for a slightly high silicon content and that indicates a air filter problem. I guess the next step will be a oil cooler and see if that helps. Thanks for your replys.
Do they make "cheap" pistons for a 514 c.i. build-up, whose are they. I'd say the reason(s) you may be breaking piston rings could come down to two possibilities: (A) Rings gapped wrong(TOO TIGHT) causing rings to distort and fail(you should have .004 gap for each inch of bore diameter)! (B) Ring to piston side clearences(ring groove) too loose causing the ring(s) to flutter(new rings should have no more than .006 side clearence), instead of the rings sealing surface being perpendicular to cylinder wall during piston movement, they rock up & down depending on which way piston is moving. As for the hot oil you are experiencing, I'd say blowby from faulty rings could be your problem. I hope this helps in any way.