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Old Feb 7, 2001 | 06:01 AM
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From: Iggesund SWEDEN
how much do i have to do?

Hi, this is my first time on this board and i think it´s excellent!!
I´ve just brought a -70 mustang with a 460 in it.
I think the engine is a -74 stock.
I was wondering ho much power I can expect now, and vere i shall begin?
I think the exhaustport are modified and i have hedders.
intake,carburator,camshaft??
Excuse my bad english i´m from Sweden
Mask
 
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Old Feb 7, 2001 | 07:00 AM
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From: Crooked River Ranch, OR
how much do i have to do?

Mask, let's start out by asking what do you plan on doing with the car? Are you racing? Will you use it as a daily driver? What's you gas prices over there...in Europe I understand its $5.00-$6.00 a gallon so that might make a difference to you in how you modify the engine. While your at it...what kind of transmission and what rear end gear ratio if you know it? Deen
P.S. Don't worry about the "langauge"...if you like cars/trucks/engines...we ALL speak the same language!
 
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Old Feb 7, 2001 | 09:06 AM
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From: Iggesund SWEDEN
how much do i have to do?

Well its not cheap with gas but plan to use the car in the summer ,(weekend car)The gas price is not so important.
A 13 sec. race at the strip will satisfy me.

There is a C6 transmission and the rear end gear ratio is 3,50
I think but I'm not sure. 8"
 
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Old Feb 8, 2001 | 02:27 AM
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From: Iggesund SWEDEN
how much do i have to do?

Must add that I´m plan to buy a holly 750 dp and a
"FPP 2plane" or offy dualport or port-o-sonic intake manifold
good bad??
Mask
 
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Old Feb 8, 2001 | 07:15 AM
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From: Crooked River Ranch, OR
how much do i have to do?

Offy makes a good manifold, I would run the Port-O-sonic for the dragstrip. For a 13 second car you'd want a new cam with split duration of around 230-235 Intake and 240-245 Exhaust measured at .050". I'd also be changing the rear end to at least a 30 and get a pair of slicks. For a 13 second car you shouldn't have to modify the wheel wells for big slicks...run something small like
28-15 X 9" wide. I have to leave for now but can get into additional engine details tomorrow. Deen
 
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Old Feb 9, 2001 | 01:35 AM
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From: Iggesund SWEDEN
how much do i have to do?

hi do you mean that it´s better with a 3.0 than a 3.5 ratio?
Little confused about the slicks I´m not sure that we use the same system for measurement? I´ve got the metre system and so on
but the rims are 15" high and the width of the tires is about 10"
right now.
mask
 
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Old Feb 9, 2001 | 06:44 AM
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From: Crooked River Ranch, OR
how much do i have to do?

Mask, I'll spell out the gear ratio, it should be at least a three-ninety or four-eleven for the drag strip. If your tires are only twenty eight inches tall a three ninety should work. Is this car a dragstrip car to begin with? If so, what has it run before?
If you have the weight I can run this on a computer dyno program and figure out how much H.P. you will need to run low 13's or high 12's. As far as the engine is concerned if you have it apart I would at least change the rod bolts to high quality like "ARP", use a good bearing like "Cleavite 77", change the timing gears to a roller style and get rid of the cast pistons for hypereutectic like the "Silv-O-lite". This should ensure safe engine operation to 6,500 RPM. If you stick with the stock rod bolts and cast pistons don't go over 5,500 RPM. As far as the heads are concerned, you'll want to change the valve springs when you install your new cam and do some minor porting on the exhaust side. If you can afford it I would also change out the valves for one piece stainless steel...if you keep the factory valves I'd limit maximum RPM to 5,500.
One other important thing I forgot yesterday is you should be running a higher stall converter. Your converter selection will depend on your cam selection. I figure you should be running between twenty-four to three thousand (2,400-3,000) stall. The stock C-6 is fine for a 12 or 13 second car although I'd at least put a shift kit in it. If your mustang came with a big block from the factory it should have a 9" gear instead of a 8" as you mentioned before. Deen
 
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Old Feb 9, 2001 | 07:56 AM
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From: Iggesund SWEDEN
how much do i have to do?

hi again now I´m with you about the rare end ratio.
Actually there was a straight six from the beginning
and I´ve only own it fore about three weeks
and it´s snowing now so I haven´t been able to really try it out yet. The car is not a strip car, the only thing special is the engine.
If I get it right there was some bumps in the exhaust ports in the heads that the previous owner removed
maybe I was little enthusiastic when I say 13 sec with my economy.
The prices for performer parts are expensive to over here
how about nitros? no god combination with cast pistons?

stuff on my purchase list.
1.port-o-sonic intake
2.holley 750 DP
3.timing gears
4.crane cam with your spec.,
lifters,springs
5.better bolts
6.shift kit
7.hi comp forge pistons
8.converter with higher stall
9.9" rear 3.90 (would like to use the car also)
10.nitrous system

In that order or?

I think the weight is about 2900-3000 pounds
MASK



 
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Old Feb 10, 2001 | 07:07 AM
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From: Pryor
how much do i have to do?

Mask,
You won't need the juice (nitrous) to turn 13's with a big block. A well built big block with the juice flowin' shoud turn 11's and be VERY streetable. I'd stay off of the bottle, if you just want to go high 12's or low 13's the cubic inches will do that by themselves.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2001 | 08:43 AM
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From: Crooked River Ranch, OR
how much do i have to do?

Mask, I think your weight will be more like 3,600 lb. with the 460 and a C-6. I had a fully stripped 67 Ranchero set up for drag use only and it weighed in at 3,200 lbs.
I calculate you'll need to make 360 H.P. to run low 13's. 400 H.P. with 3,600 lb. weight, 3,000 stall converter, 30 gears, and a 28" tall tire will let you run around 12.60's-12.70's. Your biggest gain will be the converter, it'll shave up to .5 seconds off your E.T.
I would not run nitrous...it's a pain to get the gas, and you will never have a consistent run although it's fine for street use. Iv'e used it and I didn't like it...I have seen a couple of hoods blown sky high when the solenoids stuck open...very impressive! Your lisit looks good and you can save some $$$ by buying at swap meets or buying via mail order. You can also save $100-150 buy buying the "Silv-O-Lite" pistons instead of the forged, they are good for 6,500 RPM and can be ordered for higher compression...you'll proabably want at least 10.5 or 11:1 Good luck, Deen
 
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Old Feb 10, 2001 | 08:45 AM
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From: Crooked River Ranch, OR
how much do i have to do?

Woops I did it again that 3.90 post should read three-ninety. Deen
 
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Old Feb 11, 2001 | 08:29 AM
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From: Crooked River Ranch, OR
how much do i have to do?

Mask, I've come up with two cam numbers to give you a base line. I used the "Dyno2000" software and their cam CD (shows 3,000 cams)to give you a starting point. To really dial this in we need to know your actual valve sizing and how much porting has been done to the heads but here goes: With 2.08" Intake and 1.73" exhaust valves, 11:1 compression, 750 CFM carb, single plane manifold....Cam #1 "Crower" hydraulic lifter #22206
397 H.P @5,000 RPM, peak torque: 439 @4,000 RPM
Advertized power range is 2,700-6,700 RPM

Cam #2 "Crane" solid lifter #341191
423 H.P @5,500 RPM, peak torque: 454 @4,500 RPM
Advertized power range is 3,000-6,500 RPM

Cam #2 you'd probably want to use a 3,500 stall converter but both cams and converters could be used for limited street driving. Anyway when you start building go directly to the cam manufactor and take their advise. One last thing...I know the 60's Mustangs(I'm not sure about the 1970-1973 Mustangs)came with light duty suspension and drive line components on the 6 cylinder cars ( example: 4 bolt wheels instead of 5 bolt)if you car is equipped that way it will NOT stand up to dragstrip abuse. You'll need to swap out to the heavier duty V-8 pieces from another Mustang. Have fun, Deen
 
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Old Feb 12, 2001 | 01:57 AM
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From: Iggesund SWEDEN
how much do i have to do?

Hi again, the car has new "5 bolt" brakedisk in front and drums in the back. Bigblock springs in front and track bars or what they call on the rear suspension. would like a
"sturdy lurch restrain" in front (this is a direct translate from swedich so Im not sure if you understand)
I´ve got a frend that has ownd an exactly same car combination
whit a higher stall converter ,4,56 ratio, holley 850 ,port-o-sonic,
10,5 comp,a hydralic crane cam witch i cant remember the spec on and
nitros. He ran a 10.9 sec race at 1/4 miles

Thanks for the answers i´ve got, I sad it before and I say it again
this board is GRATE!!

 
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Old Feb 12, 2001 | 07:08 AM
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From: Crooked River Ranch, OR
how much do i have to do?

Mask, I was trying to keep your car "streetable". 4:56 gears and a stall over 3,500 RPM would be pretty "nerve racking" on anything but extremely short trips, not to mention the heat-buildup in the converter/transmission. I'm in the midst of my own project turning a 1977 370 H.P. Corvette (13.05 ET)into a "Weiand" street blown 500 H.P. Street/Strip car. I estimate it to turn mid elevens this year on 8-9 lbs. of boost. Anyway let us know how your car turns out and most of all have fun! Deen
 
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Old Feb 12, 2001 | 09:03 AM
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From: Iggesund SWEDEN
how much do i have to do?

Yes, streetable is what I´m locking for. This is my first
"V8" ever so I would like to drive in it to.
Maybe take down a few Chevys at a cool streetrace in the dark
he he
MASK
 
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