how much do i have to do?
I´ve just brought a -70 mustang with a 460 in it.
I think the engine is a -74 stock.
I was wondering ho much power I can expect now, and vere i shall begin?
I think the exhaustport are modified and i have hedders.
intake,carburator,camshaft??
Excuse my bad english i´m from Sweden
Mask
P.S. Don't worry about the "langauge"...if you like cars/trucks/engines...we ALL speak the same language!
A 13 sec. race at the strip will satisfy me.
There is a C6 transmission and the rear end gear ratio is 3,50
I think but I'm not sure. 8"
0 and get a pair of slicks. For a 13 second car you shouldn't have to modify the wheel wells for big slicks...run something small like 28-15 X 9" wide. I have to leave for now but can get into additional engine details tomorrow. Deen
Little confused about the slicks I´m not sure that we use the same system for measurement? I´ve got the metre system and so on
but the rims are 15" high and the width of the tires is about 10"
right now.
mask
If you have the weight I can run this on a computer dyno program and figure out how much H.P. you will need to run low 13's or high 12's. As far as the engine is concerned if you have it apart I would at least change the rod bolts to high quality like "ARP", use a good bearing like "Cleavite 77", change the timing gears to a roller style and get rid of the cast pistons for hypereutectic like the "Silv-O-lite". This should ensure safe engine operation to 6,500 RPM. If you stick with the stock rod bolts and cast pistons don't go over 5,500 RPM. As far as the heads are concerned, you'll want to change the valve springs when you install your new cam and do some minor porting on the exhaust side. If you can afford it I would also change out the valves for one piece stainless steel...if you keep the factory valves I'd limit maximum RPM to 5,500.
One other important thing I forgot yesterday is you should be running a higher stall converter. Your converter selection will depend on your cam selection. I figure you should be running between twenty-four to three thousand (2,400-3,000) stall. The stock C-6 is fine for a 12 or 13 second car although I'd at least put a shift kit in it. If your mustang came with a big block from the factory it should have a 9" gear instead of a 8" as you mentioned before. Deen
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Actually there was a straight six from the beginning
and I´ve only own it fore about three weeks
and it´s snowing now so I haven´t been able to really try it out yet. The car is not a strip car, the only thing special is the engine.
If I get it right there was some bumps in the exhaust ports in the heads that the previous owner removed
maybe I was little enthusiastic when I say 13 sec with my economy.
The prices for performer parts are expensive to over here
how about nitros? no god combination with cast pistons?
stuff on my purchase list.
1.port-o-sonic intake
2.holley 750 DP
3.timing gears
4.crane cam with your spec.,
lifters,springs
5.better bolts
6.shift kit
7.hi comp forge pistons
8.converter with higher stall
9.9" rear 3.90 (would like to use the car also)
10.nitrous system
In that order or?
I think the weight is about 2900-3000 pounds
MASK
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
You won't need the juice (nitrous) to turn 13's with a big block. A well built big block with the juice flowin' shoud turn 11's and be VERY streetable. I'd stay off of the bottle, if you just want to go high 12's or low 13's the cubic inches will do that by themselves.
I calculate you'll need to make 360 H.P. to run low 13's. 400 H.P. with 3,600 lb. weight, 3,000 stall converter, 3
0 gears, and a 28" tall tire will let you run around 12.60's-12.70's. Your biggest gain will be the converter, it'll shave up to .5 seconds off your E.T.I would not run nitrous...it's a pain to get the gas, and you will never have a consistent run although it's fine for street use. Iv'e used it and I didn't like it...I have seen a couple of hoods blown sky high when the solenoids stuck open...very impressive! Your lisit looks good and you can save some $$$ by buying at swap meets or buying via mail order. You can also save $100-150 buy buying the "Silv-O-Lite" pistons instead of the forged, they are good for 6,500 RPM and can be ordered for higher compression...you'll proabably want at least 10.5 or 11:1 Good luck, Deen
397 H.P @5,000 RPM, peak torque: 439 @4,000 RPM
Advertized power range is 2,700-6,700 RPM
Cam #2 "Crane" solid lifter #341191
423 H.P @5,500 RPM, peak torque: 454 @4,500 RPM
Advertized power range is 3,000-6,500 RPM
Cam #2 you'd probably want to use a 3,500 stall converter but both cams and converters could be used for limited street driving. Anyway when you start building go directly to the cam manufactor and take their advise. One last thing...I know the 60's Mustangs(I'm not sure about the 1970-1973 Mustangs)came with light duty suspension and drive line components on the 6 cylinder cars ( example: 4 bolt wheels instead of 5 bolt)if you car is equipped that way it will NOT stand up to dragstrip abuse. You'll need to swap out to the heavier duty V-8 pieces from another Mustang. Have fun, Deen
"sturdy lurch restrain" in front (this is a direct translate from swedich so Im not sure if you understand)
I´ve got a frend that has ownd an exactly same car combination
whit a higher stall converter ,4,56 ratio, holley 850 ,port-o-sonic,
10,5 comp,a hydralic crane cam witch i cant remember the spec on and
nitros. He ran a 10.9 sec race at 1/4 miles
Thanks for the answers i´ve got, I sad it before and I say it again
this board is GRATE!!
"V8" ever so I would like to drive in it to.
Maybe take down a few Chevys at a cool streetrace in the dark
he he
MASK




