460 engine information
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460 engine information
Hey guys... How do I know or how can I tell what year my engine was made and was it a car motor or truck motor? It has D3VE-A28 on the block above the starter. Also it has the numbers 3Y906941 on the block. I am having trouble with balance and I dont know if I need a neutral flywheel or not. Thanks....
Laughing Gas
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From: hohenwald, tn
my 77 f350 has a 78 460 car motor, i told by the emission decal on the valve cover. the intake has a d3 casting# and it had a 2 bbl on it( 4 bbl intake spacer and 2bbl carb). if nothing else check with the po. maybe?
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Please remember the 429/460 was DESIGNED for the Lincoln thus the V in the engineering number
In 1978,the 460 was redesigned for the Truck D8TE-
Andy,
This "3Y906941" means nothing.
You need the date casting numbers from the block and heads
The numbers for the block are on the side for the block just up from the starter,
and may look something like this: *4H9*
The numbers for the heads are located in the oil gallery and look something like this
*3K23*
Post those numbers for me.
Rusty,
The term you're looking for is square bore and spread bore.
The OLDER intakes were square bore 4 equal size holes
The newer intakes are spread bore and there are 2 large and 2 smaller holes.
The 460 is discussed at length in the 385 engine forum where most engine topics are.
In 1978,the 460 was redesigned for the Truck D8TE-
Andy,
This "3Y906941" means nothing.
You need the date casting numbers from the block and heads
The numbers for the block are on the side for the block just up from the starter,
and may look something like this: *4H9*
The numbers for the heads are located in the oil gallery and look something like this
*3K23*
Post those numbers for me.
Rusty,
The term you're looking for is square bore and spread bore.
The OLDER intakes were square bore 4 equal size holes
The newer intakes are spread bore and there are 2 large and 2 smaller holes.
The 460 is discussed at length in the 385 engine forum where most engine topics are.
Last edited by Mil1ion; Feb 9, 2008 at 12:58 PM.
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ok here are the numbers and letters. Above the starter on the block is DIVE-A2B
And on the heads are D3VE-A28
Update----I changed the ballancer this weekend. Still a small vibration. Pulled the motor and had the flywheel checked. It was neutral....same as the old ballencer, and new one. Put motor back in and still got the friggin vibration. Its not bad but its enough to know its not supposed to be there. So come on and tell me where to look next or what I need to do. Thanks alot...Andy
And on the heads are D3VE-A28
Update----I changed the ballancer this weekend. Still a small vibration. Pulled the motor and had the flywheel checked. It was neutral....same as the old ballencer, and new one. Put motor back in and still got the friggin vibration. Its not bad but its enough to know its not supposed to be there. So come on and tell me where to look next or what I need to do. Thanks alot...Andy
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Those are still JUST engineering numbers with change-ups
It still only means the part was designed for a 73 Lincoln
A2B means it had received a few minor changes.
See the 1K20 number here?
This is what you are looking for.
It could start with a 2,3,4,5,6,7,
It still only means the part was designed for a 73 Lincoln
A2B means it had received a few minor changes.
See the 1K20 number here?
This is what you are looking for.
It could start with a 2,3,4,5,6,7,
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I have looked and looked but cant find no such number, unless its behind the manifold. Took the starter off and all that was there was the DIVE number. I do know for a fact that it came out of a car..Lincoln...and it had stamped into the block on the back 3Y906941 I wrote these numbers down when building it. I looked all over it when I was building it and thats all I seen. I am sure you know what your saying and what ur telling me to look for. I dont dought that at all. I just dont see those.
Given this info, would it make any diffrence if it was used with an auto tranny to begine with and now going to a manual? It had two places to put the pilot bearing. Out flush with the crank...and on inside the crank. Two diffrent size pilots. Each fit there spots but I used the outer one...It was much larger. Again ... thanks for the help Andy B
Given this info, would it make any diffrence if it was used with an auto tranny to begine with and now going to a manual? It had two places to put the pilot bearing. Out flush with the crank...and on inside the crank. Two diffrent size pilots. Each fit there spots but I used the outer one...It was much larger. Again ... thanks for the help Andy B
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Pull a valve cover and look in the oil galley for the heads casting.
The symbols on the block are easy to see if the block is clean.
At each end of the symbols there is an * or Rivet look to it.
Here is how ford describes it
The symbols on the block are easy to see if the block is clean.
At each end of the symbols there is an * or Rivet look to it.
Here is how ford describes it
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From: Eldorado Ca. USA
The balancer is not what makes the difference on these motors, it is the spacer that sits behind it. 79 and later had a counterweight on it, early engines did not. The easiest way to tell whether or not a 460 started life in a car or truck would be to look at the tops of the rod bolts. High performance 460s and truck motors had football shaped heads, passenger cars had rectangular ones. Assuming 30 years and several rebuilds later, this is not always an honest representation of what actually happened from the factory.
The Dead On reliable way to tell if your engine is internally or externally balanced would be to find the casting number on the crank.
429 = 4U, 4UA or 4UAB
460 = 2Y, 2YA, 2YAB or 2YABC internal or 3Y or 3YA external.
I would double check your firing order, the truck will run with two wires backwards.
The Dead On reliable way to tell if your engine is internally or externally balanced would be to find the casting number on the crank.
429 = 4U, 4UA or 4UAB
460 = 2Y, 2YA, 2YAB or 2YABC internal or 3Y or 3YA external.
I would double check your firing order, the truck will run with two wires backwards.
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Ok.. I will check the fireing order again. Maybe thats it. You say the spacer??? I pulled it back off and looked at it again. It has no weights on it. Straight and smooth. But one thing I did notice is that it is not snug on the key-way. It will move back and forth on the key. I mean its not like it will move an inch or so, but maybe 10 to 20 thousands. Will that through it out? Now its tight when I put the balancer back on, just loose without the balancer.
Many thanks for all the help............Andy B.
Many thanks for all the help............Andy B.
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Ok... So where should I look now? I am going to give it an over-look this evening once again. Lets say the fireing is ok.. It has a new balancer.. Lets say the flywheel is good.. Do I look to the crank for the problem? Now bear in mind... This vib will not beat on the truck. Its just a small vib that should not be there. I have built several motors before and the only time I ran into this kind on thing was on a 454 chevy and it didnt take long to see that the flywheel would bolt on two diffrent ways. It would jar your teeth out. Again many thanks.....