4x4 HUB question
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Southern Tier New York
Originally Posted by afreemanmd
yeah, the vac affects the AC because the default blower position is defrost. So if the AC can't pull enough vacuum to redirect the air to the right vents, you're gonna have problems....
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Ohio
Originally Posted by 71-4R3SONS
Yes and no... It's kinda hard to discribe... I've tried to discribe in other posts so here it goes.
I'd reach behind the wheel when it is turned so I could access the u-joint with out getting all grunged up... I would then push on the u-joint in it's rotational direction forward & backwards... it would move, but only a "tick", hardly at all. But, the back and forth pressure would release it and eventually I could turn the front axle by rotating it at the u-joint.
Understand?
The vaccuum leak effected both heat and A/C... very minimal though... I could feel a lack of air through the vents.
I'd reach behind the wheel when it is turned so I could access the u-joint with out getting all grunged up... I would then push on the u-joint in it's rotational direction forward & backwards... it would move, but only a "tick", hardly at all. But, the back and forth pressure would release it and eventually I could turn the front axle by rotating it at the u-joint.
Understand?
The vaccuum leak effected both heat and A/C... very minimal though... I could feel a lack of air through the vents.
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Florida
Bob, Isaac and everyone else...
I know this has been educational for me...and Bob I didn't mean to make you think after that day it sounds like you had!!! LOL
I keep my rotary switch on the hubs in 'AUTO'...I try and engage my 4x4 a few times per year to keep things moving...
It also sounds like a permanently LOCKED hub would be harder to diagnose well mpgs may point you there.
BUT a hub that WON'T lock would be much easier to notice when you engaged 4 wheel and you KNEW you weren't getting drive to a wheel...
Do I have it right?
So what's the 'suggested' maintenance routine? Every 2 years to disassemble the hubs and clean/lube?...I may have missed that on guzzles site...sorry...
joe.
I know this has been educational for me...and Bob I didn't mean to make you think after that day it sounds like you had!!! LOL
I keep my rotary switch on the hubs in 'AUTO'...I try and engage my 4x4 a few times per year to keep things moving...
It also sounds like a permanently LOCKED hub would be harder to diagnose well mpgs may point you there.
BUT a hub that WON'T lock would be much easier to notice when you engaged 4 wheel and you KNEW you weren't getting drive to a wheel...
Do I have it right?
So what's the 'suggested' maintenance routine? Every 2 years to disassemble the hubs and clean/lube?...I may have missed that on guzzles site...sorry...
joe.
Last edited by X_Hemi_Guy; Feb 7, 2008 at 07:58 PM.
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yup. Not a big sports guy, so I have time lol 
Here's something else to ponder. The vacuum hubs operate something like a clicker pen. A vacuum signal is sent to lock the hubs and then another, slightly lesser, vacuum signal is sent to unlock them. Its not like the hubs are locked as long as there is vacuum. That kinda makes me thing that maybe the solenoid is shot if it continues to interfere with the AC when you are not actively switching the selector switch for 2x4 or 4x4.
Maybe if the solenoid is on the fritz, and doesn't close completely, and allows lets say 4 in/hg of vacuum to the hubs, it won't be enough to lock or unlock them (i think that takes like 11 and 7 in/hg respectively) but it might be enough to drain the vacuum from the AC valves if the hubs leak leak (ie are constantly venting vacuum), and by redoing the hubs, they hold the vacuum better, which allows the vacuum to keep high enough to run the AC. I have no idea if that makes sense, and its kinda a WAG, but its just something to think about :-)
FWIW, here's eurekaboy's writeup on new hubs:
http://www.eurekaboy.com/f250/hub.htm
Not to brag on Stan (eurekaboy) or anything, but he's got a lot of good writeups if anybody wants to poke around his site:
http://www.eurekaboy.com/f250/
Here's something else to ponder. The vacuum hubs operate something like a clicker pen. A vacuum signal is sent to lock the hubs and then another, slightly lesser, vacuum signal is sent to unlock them. Its not like the hubs are locked as long as there is vacuum. That kinda makes me thing that maybe the solenoid is shot if it continues to interfere with the AC when you are not actively switching the selector switch for 2x4 or 4x4.
Maybe if the solenoid is on the fritz, and doesn't close completely, and allows lets say 4 in/hg of vacuum to the hubs, it won't be enough to lock or unlock them (i think that takes like 11 and 7 in/hg respectively) but it might be enough to drain the vacuum from the AC valves if the hubs leak leak (ie are constantly venting vacuum), and by redoing the hubs, they hold the vacuum better, which allows the vacuum to keep high enough to run the AC. I have no idea if that makes sense, and its kinda a WAG, but its just something to think about :-)
FWIW, here's eurekaboy's writeup on new hubs:
http://www.eurekaboy.com/f250/hub.htm
Not to brag on Stan (eurekaboy) or anything, but he's got a lot of good writeups if anybody wants to poke around his site:
http://www.eurekaboy.com/f250/
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Joe,
That exactly what happened to me. I was in a field and sank in a bit. Nothing big, but it was enough to fill up my BFG AT/KO's and get me stuck. I had it in 4x4 low and the front wheels weren't even spinning. I locked the hubs and got out fine, but it was a hassle to not be able to trust the system...
As far as maintenance, I'm not sure. I would think that cycling the system every once in a while is a good thing. Just make sure if you do it on concrete you aren't putting undue stress on the system. If you do cycle it, take the opportunity to make sure that the hubs lock/unlock when they should. You should be able to spin the stub shafts at the CV joint in the knuckle if the hubs are unlocked and not be able to spin it if they are locked.
That exactly what happened to me. I was in a field and sank in a bit. Nothing big, but it was enough to fill up my BFG AT/KO's and get me stuck. I had it in 4x4 low and the front wheels weren't even spinning. I locked the hubs and got out fine, but it was a hassle to not be able to trust the system...
As far as maintenance, I'm not sure. I would think that cycling the system every once in a while is a good thing. Just make sure if you do it on concrete you aren't putting undue stress on the system. If you do cycle it, take the opportunity to make sure that the hubs lock/unlock when they should. You should be able to spin the stub shafts at the CV joint in the knuckle if the hubs are unlocked and not be able to spin it if they are locked.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 634
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From: Southern Tier New York
Originally Posted by X_Hemi_Guy
1) It also sounds like a permanently LOCKED hub would be harder to diagnose while mpgs may point you there.
2) BUT a hub that WON'T lock would be much easier to notice when you engaged 4 wheel and you KNEW you weren't getting drive to a wheel...
3) Do I have it right?
4) So what's the 'suggested' maintenance routine? Every 2 years to disassemble the hubs and clean/lube?
2) BUT a hub that WON'T lock would be much easier to notice when you engaged 4 wheel and you KNEW you weren't getting drive to a wheel...
3) Do I have it right?
4) So what's the 'suggested' maintenance routine? Every 2 years to disassemble the hubs and clean/lube?
2. Yep... getting stuck while plowing with my 99 was when I first realized my autolocks weren't autolocking.
3. I think so... my experience of a stuck hub gave me the "advantage" of knowing and feeling the stuck hub problem.
4. Don't get me wrong, I love to wrench as much or more than most, but my boys and family get more time these days... Guzzles site is a bit on the OCD end (yes, I too obsess, but not as much as I used to... three young sons changed my ways... and a non-OCD wife too!!!
Every couple years might do the trick. Like you, my truck lives in a garage!
Last edited by 71-4R3SONS; Feb 7, 2008 at 08:36 PM.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Southern Tier New York
Originally Posted by afreemanmd
Not to brag on Stan (eurekaboy) or anything, but he's got a lot of good writeups if anybody wants to poke around his site
Great technical info!!
Thanks!!
Last edited by 71-4R3SONS; Feb 7, 2008 at 08:42 PM.
Posting Guru
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If the hubs do not disengage automatically, is it the same thing as manually locking the hubs from the outside dial?
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 634
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From: Southern Tier New York
Originally Posted by aortizexcursion
If the hubs do not disengage automatically, is it the same thing as manually locking the hubs from the outside dial?
(Rangers lost 4-1)
Last edited by 71-4R3SONS; Feb 7, 2008 at 08:49 PM.
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Hotshot
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From: Florida
Originally Posted by afreemanmd
Not to brag on Stan (eurekaboy) or anything, but he's got a lot of good writeups if anybody wants to poke around his site:
http://www.eurekaboy.com/f250/
I share his mirror replacement photos at least once per week!
joe.
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 909
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[QUOTE=X_Hemi_Guy]
Not to brag on Stan (eurekaboy) or anything, but he's got a lot of good writeups if anybody wants to poke around his site:
http://www.eurekaboy.com/f250/[/QUOTE]
I have used and SHARED Stan's writeups...good stuff for sure...so BRAG on him MORE!
I share his mirror replacement photos at least once per week!
joe.
I've been really impressed with his writeups. I actually had a question about the hubs I was ordering, and I popped him an email. To my surprise, he responded within 5 min, no joke lol, and even had the answer to my question
haha
Originally Posted by afreemanmd
Not to brag on Stan (eurekaboy) or anything, but he's got a lot of good writeups if anybody wants to poke around his site:
http://www.eurekaboy.com/f250/[/QUOTE]
I have used and SHARED Stan's writeups...good stuff for sure...so BRAG on him MORE!
I share his mirror replacement photos at least once per week!
joe.
I've been really impressed with his writeups. I actually had a question about the hubs I was ordering, and I popped him an email. To my surprise, he responded within 5 min, no joke lol, and even had the answer to my question
haha
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 634
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From: Southern Tier New York
Originally Posted by X_Hemi_Guy
Heck...I'm still relishing on the GIANTS!
Bob...how do you feel about Jarrett going Toyota?
Bob...how do you feel about Jarrett going Toyota?
Jarrett... to me, I'll always consider him a FOMOCO guy... Hey, it's a business and could you blame him when he left RYR last year? The COT has my interest waining in NASCAR's top series... I'd rather watch the trucks. Kinda like watching womens basketball... watching picks/screens and the Wooden way of B-ball... not a bunch of dunkin, trash talking crap.
Last edited by 71-4R3SONS; Feb 7, 2008 at 09:09 PM.
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Hers a thread from the Superduty forum from about a month ago with a guy asking to fix the hubs with the same problem your asking about.Post #8 seems like a very helpful post.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Florida
I MAY have JINXED myself...
This morning my development streets were pretty icy...so I engage 4 wheel...no problem...a few seconds and light comes on dash...I can tell all is locked up with the front wheels pulling.
I get to the main drag and disengage 4 wheel...I start to hear this low pitch whine...I'm thinking the radio...so I turn that off...but it is still there.
I'm going maybe 30mph so I re-engage 4 wheel but the indicator pops on IMMEDIATELY...
I dis-engage 4 wheel and continue to hear it. I come to a light and start to slow...the whine pitch is speed dependent...
I couldn't back up as there was traffic behind ... but I'm probably used to my old '92 Exploder I had where you had to back up to 'unlock' the auto hubs...
By the time I got to work (2.5 more miles)...the noise had completely stopped...
It is obviously 4 wheel related...
Any thoughts?...
joe.
This morning my development streets were pretty icy...so I engage 4 wheel...no problem...a few seconds and light comes on dash...I can tell all is locked up with the front wheels pulling.
I get to the main drag and disengage 4 wheel...I start to hear this low pitch whine...I'm thinking the radio...so I turn that off...but it is still there.
I'm going maybe 30mph so I re-engage 4 wheel but the indicator pops on IMMEDIATELY...
I dis-engage 4 wheel and continue to hear it. I come to a light and start to slow...the whine pitch is speed dependent...
I couldn't back up as there was traffic behind ... but I'm probably used to my old '92 Exploder I had where you had to back up to 'unlock' the auto hubs...
By the time I got to work (2.5 more miles)...the noise had completely stopped...
It is obviously 4 wheel related...
Any thoughts?...
joe.