bolt on power
What year is your truck? Manual or automatic? Miles?
Depending on the gearing, you might be able to get an entire rear axle assembly at the wrecking yard for a decent price. I got a 3.08 geared assembly, even had brakes on it, for $250. I suspect lower gears (higher number) will cost a bit more and surely limited slip will cost more.
What year is your truck? Manual or automatic? Miles?
Depending on the gearing, you might be able to get an entire rear axle assembly at the wrecking yard for a decent price. I got a 3.08 geared assembly, even had brakes on it, for $250. I suspect lower gears (higher number) will cost a bit more and surely limited slip will cost more.
17? Focus on school, take a typing class, get some job training and THEN you can throw money away.
You've got all the power you can handle as it is.
17? Focus on school, take a typing class, get some job training and THEN you can throw money away.
You've got all the power you can handle as it is.
I'm not even gonna touch the "all the power you can handle" bit
You could try just being helpful....
Just my 2 cents
Also with a 3 speed auto, you do have the torque multiplication function of the torque converter, which effectively gives you a lower gearing on take off, so in a sense, three speeds.
I would guess that the tranny is fairly simple being a 3 speed and hopefully that also means strong.
If your rear gear it to high (My 84 was manual with OD and had something like a 2.47 rear gear, what a dog), the axle exchange would be a good deal, so long as you don't do a lot of highway driving. You could buy the assembly from a wrecking yard and I would think sell the one you pull out of the truck to make up some of the cost.
Trending Topics
I'm not even gonna touch the "all the power you can handle" bit
You could try just being helpful....
Just my 2 cents
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I think he was looking for some cheap alternatives to what he couldn't afford.
Of course any way you slice it....an increase in horsepower means a decrease in cash.
I've noticed alot of improvements on this forum for the 300 I-6....but they all seem to be for the carbed version. Still looking though.

I do blieve I will pick up another this summer. possibly a little stepside with a v8.
Did they make a supercab stepside??
So other than upgraded coil and wires, you only installed headers and a cam.
No rockers?
What impovements did this give you?
considering im pulling 33" mudders with stock gears and a built slushbox it pull hard up to 100.
they did make a stepside in an extended cab configuration.
For the same money, or less, pull the EFI exhaust manafolds and cleanup out any casting flash and carbon buildup and your good. Replace the two stock cats with a single 2 into 1 universal cat. replace the stock muffler with a freer flowing one, and maybe upgrade from 2.25" to 2.5" pipes (they don't have to be stainless steel).
While your at it replace the O2 sensor(s) as well. When they carbon up they can sent incorrect signals to the computer.
Even though I've done it as well, the hotter coil isn't really needed in a mostly stock engine either. But, you should upgrade the TFI module at the same time for better spark control. The stock spec sparkplugs are just fine with either the Crane coil that Opti recommends or the Accel Super coil that I used, but you do need to open the gap to .050 to .055 to take advantage of the hotter spark.
If you choose to replace the cam replace the timing gears with metal ones at the same time. Cloyes is the only company, that I've found, that makes a set any more. This gear set ahs three different keyways for installation (5* retard/straitup/5* advance). If your not in a state with a require emission test install at straight up for best all around gains.
For the same money, or less, pull the EFI exhaust manafolds and cleanup out any casting flash and carbon buildup and your good. Replace the two stock cats with a single 2 into 1 universal cat. replace the stock muffler with a freer flowing one, and maybe upgrade from 2.25" to 2.5" pipes (they don't have to be stainless steel).
While your at it replace the O2 sensor(s) as well. When they carbon up they can sent incorrect signals to the computer.
Even though I've done it as well, the hotter coil isn't really needed in a mostly stock engine either. But, you should upgrade the TFI module at the same time for better spark control. The stock spec sparkplugs are just fine with either the Crane coil that Opti recommends or the Accel Super coil that I used, but you do need to open the gap to .050 to .055 to take advantage of the hotter spark.
If you choose to replace the cam replace the timing gears with metal ones at the same time. Cloyes is the only company, that I've found, that makes a set any more. This gear set ahs three different keyways for installation (5* retard/straitup/5* advance). If your not in a state with a require emission test install at straight up for best all around gains.








