Hey I know I saw an article here somewhere on how to adjust the steering box. there is a bit of play in my steering wheel and i'm constantly adjusting on the highway... Could someone give instructions on how to fix? thanks!

-Robb

 

I have the same problem I think its the Nut on top that also looks like a bolt coming out of the steering box near the steering shaft

 

Yep. Loosen the locknut. Tighten the set screw down about 1/4 turn, or less if you feel resistance first. Retorque the locknut.

 

Thank you Scott! How's your truck running BTW? haven't heard from ya lately?

 

It's running ok....but but my injectors are a bit much for my 194000 mile HPOP. Other than falling on it's face above 2800 rpm it runs quite well.

I keep a watchful eye on the forums most days, just never seem to have much "play" time anymore.

 

If you go to much on the set screw you will get binding with the wheel turned near the stops. You will find good infor on ajustment in this link..

http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_i...az/index3.html

 

STOP!!! Do not mess with the worm preload.
You will damage the box. It can cause an accident---It can lockup the steering and/or have no self center ect.
The worm gear is adjusted by the amount of tork needed to turn the input shaft (steering wheel). I dont have the spec off hand. I would have to dig it up.

Bill

 

Im with Madvan on this one. I ruined a box by messing with that screw. I bet the problem lies elsewhere. There are only so many things that can cause this. How are you ball joints and tie rods? Also, try and pinpoint where the slack is. Before or after the pitman arm. On the column there is a lower shaft that connects the upper shaft to the steering gear. There is a joint on the lower shaft that can wear out and cause play the wheel. Have someone move the wheel back and forth slightly and check for play here. There part number for that shaft is F7TZ-3B676-AA

 

Yes.
If you adjust the box to the spec input tork and still have play, you have to add shims to adjust the gear lash. All this is best done on the bench.

Bill

 

The Chilton manual gives specs on tourqe for the box. Still looking for mine. If I can find it ill scan the specs and instructions.

 

Whoa guess I won't be messing with that screw! thanks Bill and ford forever for stopping me B4 i messed up steering box. Tie rods are brand new (had those done when truck was in for other problems) ball joints seem ok. I guess I'll just have to live with it for now... I don't have the money to be replacing a bunch of stuff right now

-Robb

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/full...p?tsb=96-25-21

I found 2 part numbers there....
<table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td class="NOBOTTOMBORDER" align="left">F7TZ-3B676-AA</td> <td class="NOBOTTOMBORDER" align="left">Lower Steering Column Shaft (1996 Vehicles)</td> </tr> <tr><td class="NOBORDER" align="left">F75Z-3B676-CA</td> <td class="NOBORDER" align="left">Lower Steering Column Shaft (1997 Vehicles)</td></tr></tbody></table>
Should I assume the 97 ones are for F-150's? and that the correct part number is the one that you gave? My truck is a 97
ALSO how difficult is the part to install? any specialty tools or just standard hand tools?

-Robb

 

ya same here glad I never touched it yet is the steering shaft known to wear out???? I also have new tie rods

 

"Reset the meshload only if the measured torque for total on-center load is less than 1.5 Nm (13 lb-in). If reset is required, loosen the adjuster lock nut and turn the sector shaft adjuster screw until the measured total on-center load torque is 2.0 Nm (18 lb-in). Hold the sector shaft screw in place and tighten the lock nut to 48-61 Nm (35-45 lb-ft)."


That is taken from an online manual. I'm going to have to adjust mine soon as well. Seems like I have an 1/8 to a 1/4 turn of play in mine and getting hard to compensate for on a windy day.

 

Where do we find the online manual.