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Any LOGICAL reason why anyone would weld a TTB together to improvise a "solid" front axle?
"Offroad and 4x4" forum already laughed at me, as expected. Curious now as to where this idea started. Cruel urban legend started by a disgruntled Ford employee? Rogue backyard mechanic? Did I have another drunken out-of-body experience? Snipe hunt?
you have to cut the axle from the frame or no suspension movement....reason 1
the amount of weight you would add to the front axle (large plating and alot of welding) then all the stress would be right at the point of all the plating and welding would make it not worth the trouble. just much much cheeper and stronger to put in solid axle.
only ever heard about this, never seen it. plus, it's usually at the bar, like, "oh, i know a guy who knows a guy who's friend heard about a guy who did it on like a bronco or somethin', you should try it." my response has also always been, "WHY?!?!?" just wondering if there is some un-sung advantage, besides a survival situation like having to do a hillbilly repair in a combat zone w/ plenty of welding rods but no auto parts...knowwhatI'msayin'? (even though i've never seen a Ford TTB in a military pickup/suv, just solid axle, gas and diesel GMs and Mopars)
Last edited by jmcgp; Feb 6, 2008 at 04:19 PM.
Reason: typo
I have seen this done, along with welding D50 TTB knuckles onto a rear 60 to build a fornt 60...
It'll work, and cure alignment issues, but, unless you get a custom inner pass side shaft, you still have a 3rd u-joint to deal with.
There is nothing wrong with a TTB front end.....they are what they are...while solid axles are built for more durable and rough abuse the TTB gets the job done and handle up to 35's pretty well......welding it up like that would be a sign of major stupidity.JMO
Traction is determined largely by the contact patch, how much rubber is on the road. Given 2 trucks, same loads, on dry pavement, turning fast into a corner, one with a solid axle and one with the TTB, the VERY short answer is that the TTB will "give" you better traction. However, this "short" answer is just one of many possible scenarios. Things get more complicated when you factor in sway/torsion bars, off-road surfaces, vehicle heights (center of gravity), spring coefficients, shocks, loads biased front/rear and/or side/side, loads shifting/rolling around, landmines, gremlins, the IRS, osmosis, telekenesis.... Without boring you, it is better to have a solid axle for off-road and heavy-duty use, where DRY traction is not the greatest concern. But for high-speed, paved road, light-duty use, DRY traction usually IS the greatest concern, and the TTB is the better choice.
i thought about this same thing alot just never looked closely at it. if you weld the brackets together at the bottom of the bracket (i can because lift bracket) it would distribute more stress than before seems like a great idea to me
Kirk......if you were to weld your axle housing to your drop brackets...then how would you have suspension?The axle would not be able to pivot the way it should.....