The solid axle would be better if you're concerned about the absolute most articulation and traction under articulated scenarios. With a solid axle, when one wheel goes up the other is forced downward and will often times be on the ground more when articulated.

The TTB on the other hand offers better suspension travel for high speed and when modified with better suspension components it becomes a great advantage to have independent front suspension.

It really depends on what kind of wheelin' you're doing.

 

I will have to diagree with JMCGP
solid axles are not nessarily better offroad, I don't see very many if at all anyone using solid axles in the Baja Races and circuit racing track racing in fact the only area you will acually see solid is extreme rock crawling and thats becuase the solid axle design works better than TTB and not because its stronger but becuase theres less moving parts, I really like my TTb on my f250 for ON and Offroad it performs flawlessly in both cases, and honestly dont think i'de like a solid axle again.

 

I wonder why......read Justin's last post (MustangGT).Soild axles are used mainly for serious offroading mudding and what have you...Like Justin said, it all depends on the type of terrain you plan on.....another reason people swap over to solids is because you can purchase more upgrades for them.

JR

 

I just think sometimes people spend money they don't need to to covert over to solid axles when The TTb axles are really just as strong unless your building a extreme machine, and your right I did repeat what was already said, my views.

 

You're also correct, in your offroad analysis, since traction has to do w/ the contact patch, as i started to get to, along with the normal (downward) force, providing you don't break free (skid), whether it be on dry or wet, hard or soft surface, and whether the axle in question is a driver or a roller.

i1dery, i forgot about baja! got snow and New England rocky mud on the brain. baja and 2wd off-road's not something i've explored much.

i love this stuff guys, ask 5 gearhdeads and get 8 points of view, i live for it. i've been on both the engineering (w/ ex-Ford corporate instruction) side and the mechanic side, civilian and military. had great mentors everywhere i've been. it's guys like us who never stop thinking, evaluating, testing, breaking and rebuilding that keep craftsman, mac, snap on, napa, rancho and the like in business. if only we were stockholders...

jp

 

-JR- sorry i wasnt clear i use the 4 inch lift holes on my ttb axle drop brackets so if i welded a bar between the bottom of the two bracket bracing them to eachother just below where the pivots mount it would turn it into a pivoting solid axle of sorts if i could figure out a bar or piece of steel that would fit in that spot. not touching the arms themselves.

i agree a solid axle is stronger all weight distributed to the leafs and/or traction bar is simpler and usually more durable so its usually choice for heavy off-road and easier to lift because less parts ie drop brackets

ttb gies you more comfort and better traction throurgh allowing more tire contact while truck moves and rolls and though not as durable i feel its very strong because like solid axle most stress is on the leafs

-----question though--im planning on goin to 37s soon is there something on the ttb i should worry about, i have enough faith in it that i am goin to 37s just lookin for if there is something i should keep my eyes on

 

By the warn hub kit listed in your sig I'm assuming you've converted to manuals....that's a good thing because autos are pretty much the weakest link in the TTB's.....next I'd say would be U-joints...the shafts themselves are pretty durable.....as well as the knuckles.....so I'd say auto hubs, u-joints,and worn splines on the hubs......just watch your pinion angles and you should be pretty close to alright...however, you ask the same question in the offroad forum and they're gonna suggest a SAS for anything running over 35's......

JR

 

yeah i heard that before about the solid axles but when i look at the set-up i figure what you said, your right about the hubs, ill keep a check on the u-joint grease and pinion angles. what do you think about the welding brackets together near the bottom as close to the pivot as possible without interfering with suspension, the idea is to distribute pressure to both leafs like a solid axle does instead of just on leaf and a bracket.

 

Well, considering some of the drop brackets.....I would but a spacer in between them...some I can't believe they hold the weight and take abuse for as long as they do......sounds like a good idea to me...if anyone is curious about how to do an SAS lemme know I've done em and they're failry easy.Luck

JR

 

the brackets are from skyjacker i was curious about that when they came, but they are thick steel with strong welds on em. i was thinking bout it before they came and i think that most stress is on they leafs and u-bolts

 

Most people switch to factory-ish solid axles for amatuer off roading because it's an inexpensive way of gaining suspension strength while simplifying the servicability of the front end. After all, a pair of leaf springs and a solid axle is easy to service and replace when you bend/break it

Whoever mentioned contact patch is going down the correct path with their thoughts - the name of the game in any form of racing (serious or not) is traction - and a solid axle does not provide the maximum contact patch when it's severely pitched left or right due to the articulation necessary for crossing rough terrain. You'll end up with both tires riding on the edge where the tread and the sidewall meet - and why many off-road tire manufacturers make sure there are meaty lugs there that partially go up the sidewall.

Independent front and rear suspensions on the other hand can be designed and constructed as to maximize the contact patch because you have seperated the two sides of the front (or rear) from one another, so as one wheel loses traction due to angles (caster and camber based on body/frame position in relationship to the terrain) the other side may have a good chance of biting.

The problem with IFS/IRS - design and construction - it requires a fair amount of knowledge in vehicle dynamics as well as materials to build one that works well and is strong enough to be pounded on day in and day out in a heavy pickup truck - but from a purist, engineering, design standpoint, it's the best off-roading type of suspension.

 

Quote:-----question though--im planning on goin to 37s soon is there something on the ttb i should worry about, i have enough faith in it that i am goin to 37s just lookin for if there is something i should keep my eyes on? / End quote

My brother has been running 37 inch boggers on his 95 (6 inch pro comp lift) with all the factory internals except for the hubs (manual conversion) for about three years now and has never had an issue with his ttb front end... The only thing he has groused about is the factory steering, he wants the x-over (superlift?) steering kit. I think you would be plenty fine running the 37's. He also does a fair amount of mudding, trailblazing and clear cut wandering... LOL

 

CapnKirk -

regarding 37" tires, here's my experience from 33's w/ an old D44 TTB: your TTB's stub axle (outer), since you're a '96, is soon to be wearing a neck in it out of tolerance for the press-on bearing, so any bigger tires you're gonna put on are gonna exagerate any "wiggle room" already in your drivetrain (assume your radius arm bushings and axle pivots are all OK, if the lift is recent). these Danas are now "obsolete" according to Ford, and most of the trucks in the boneyard, where you'd find a replacement are more beat than anything guys like us take care of, so not worth pulling parts. had mine ground down, built back up w/ welding rods and ground back down, for tight seal w/ press-on bearing. this will make it tight and true for a daily driver on pavement. if you're gonna get rid of it in a year, or just beat on it off road, then don't worry about it. cost me $200 at the machine shop up here (in MA, actually) for the grind/weld/grind, worth it to me.

JP

 

Long before SAS became common place (and before todays large aftermarket).
I thought about making a TTB solid too. I thought I was the only wondering it it was possible. I know alot of fab work would be needed, but I am sure it would work. It would not be worth it these days with so much new technology out there.
I guess I thought about this because I liked the way a solid Dana 44 handled on rough roads, and I thought that a solid TTB mod would work similarly.

I plan to convert my older 84 FSB to a solid axle in the near future.
My 99 Ranger will get a solid axle too right after that.

 

Khadma,

with the drivetrain combolisted for that 84 FSBin your sig....that's gonna be one pulling truck...and by 4spd I'm gonna go ahead and assume NP435...sweet package deal on that...take alot of pics.

JR