I have a 1990 f150 ext. cab (6' box) 302 V8 that i want to make into a mudder. I got it stuck in a ditch about 1/2 a year agoand ever since i've wanted to fix it up into a mudder so it won't get stuck again. I want to put in a 6" suspention lift with Mickey tomson ATZ/MTZ 35" x 10" tires on 15" rims. but i have an open front and rear and is also my daily driver. What i'm wondering is:
1) What's the best lift kit to put in?
2) What should i do to the 3rd members? (lockers, spools, welding gears?)
3) how long could this take to put together?
4) Is there any upgrades I should do to the motor? (p.s. I plan on putting in a turbo in the summer set at 4 - 10psi of boost).

 

IF your going to run 35s, then you're going to need to regear to 4.10-4.56s both front and rear.

IF you don't want to get stuck in the ditch, then forget about A/Ts.....At least get a M/T or go full swamper.

IF you don't feel like spending $1,000+ on gears alone, then I'd suggest a 33" tire or so, but if you want the 35s and you'll regear, then go ahead.

Best lift.... The cheap lifts are just that, cheap. The only good thing about Tough country for instance is they have a adjustment on the TTB drop bracket which helps to align the front end after the lift.
I'd go with skyjacker or something similar(just not rough country or super lift, and I don't care for anything tough country has other than the adjustment bolt).
I'd put something in the rear no matter what.
A locker would be good if the truck is street driven often, but if not, then spool or weld.
The front....depending on how much you wheel, you might want to leave it open(b/c the D44 TTB isn't the strongest axle out there). A spool and welding up front would be a no, but a limited slip or auto locker (such as the aussie locker) would be something to thing about.

How long to put together......Depends on your wrenching skills/tools. You could install a lift in a week end, bring the truck to the shop and get them to install gears and lockers, and mount the wheels and tires in a day or two(depending on how buisy they are).

As for the motor, if you regear and put 35s you'd be ok, but headers, exhaust, stroker kit would strickly up to you if you felt the truck was to weak(and the 302 kind of is).

 

What transmission are you running?

 

Skyjackers are pretty top of the line and would give the clearance. The cheap ones might do the basic job, but for more long term, i'd go for quality...

http://www.autoanything.com/suspension-systems/61A2650A0A0.aspx

 

The transmition is a Z?? 5spd. manual.(Not the crappy mazda that they put in)

 

Well, the real question here is what is your budget? I could list off a build that would be bullet proof and real shiney for 5000, or one that will work for what you want for 1000 or less.

 

Did you swap that in? because the ZF was not offered behind the 302 in 1990

 

nvm it's the Mazda M50b r2 with what looks like a borg-warner 13-56 manual shift.
My bujet is a tight almost strangle hold. I borrowed a little money, from family, to buy it and i'm only a few hundred dollars off. I only have a part time job though.
I also need to know which brand and model of tires will get me the best traction in mud (33" or 35"). Also i'm buying new rims so should I get 15" x 8" or 15" x 10" for the best traction. And finaly will i need a 4" or larger lift cit to put on 33" - 35" tires.

 

You could fit the 33's with no lift. 35's with a small lift or some fender trimming. The best traction would be with a set of boggers, but they're pricey and wear very fast. You dont "need' new rims though, you could keep the stockers.