If I took my truck to the dealership to have the ball joints checked, what would they do to test them? How would you check them at home?

05 PSD CC 4X4

 

Not sure how the mechanics test them,other than causing suspension movement and looking for and measuring ball joint movement.

At home, jack up a front tire. Grab the top and bottom of the tire and do a push/pull on top and bottom of the tire, trying to get it to move. If it moves on that axis, chances are you need to replace your ball joints.

 

One way is to raise the front end from below the spring perch until the tire is around 4" off the ground. Then take a long pry bar and slip it under the tire from the outside and lift straight up on it. If there is any play in the ball joints, you will be able to see the wheel move. Having someone else work the bar (while you crawl in where you can see) helps. If one is bad, you might as well replace both since the other will go eventually and the labor is almost the same.

 

The truck has 60k on it and feels pretty good, but my mind begins to fool me due to the "problems" known to the BJ on these trucks.

 

This is the way we do it. It works!

 

I agree with the prybar ...... one can be fairly bad and you would not feel it just muscling the wheel around with your arms.

 

Thanks for the information, I'll give it a try and see what I get.

 

When I went to get my front end aligned they just grabbed the tire on the top and bottom and muscled it! The other guy pointed at the bad joint and then told me that could fix it for $400!!! I bought my own, did the loan a tool from Advanced and did my own upper and lowed in under 2 hours. I think the prybar is the way to go on the testing though.

 

As he said but ball joints but jack it to wear they are to what we call loaded

 

Under 2 hours??? You are the man!

I assume the tool you borrowed from Advanced was a Ball Joint Press. Were you able to *install* the new ball joints with this tool? The ball joint press I borrowed from AutoZone did not have the correct cups/spacers to install the the upper and/or lower joint (removing the old joints was not a problem with their tool). So, one time I jerry-rigged something, the other time I just brought the knuckle over to the local machine shop and let them press the new joints in.

Thanks.

 

Thanks. I grew up working on cars. I was repacking bearings in a 71 ford bronco with my dad at 10. Yes the tool had everything you needed (the press out cup as well as the press in cup). They make you pay for it up front and then when you bring it back you get a full refund. Mine was $162. If you are mechanically minded then this is not that big of a deal, but the mechanics want you to believe that you can't possibly do this your self. It really helps to have a second person to help you hold the tool as you press out the joint though. The machine shop is easier, but I was pressed for cash so I opted to try for it and try to beat the time in the Chiltons manual.

 

Maybe this will help? Not exactly for the ball joints though.