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I have a K&N in my 300. If you get one, get it from autoanything.com. They're well priced (about $15 less than auto stores) and I think free or very low shipping.
As for gains, I noticed about 1/2 - 1mpg increase and a little extra pick me up. It all adds up in the end, especially since you never have to replace it. After 5 regular air filters, you've already paid it off.
Also make sure you use the discount code in this post's signature..
5 regular filters but u need to re-oil it and the kit is around $10...how is that cost effective?
personally id rather buy a nanofiber or dry flow filter. its a dry style filter that filters better then the best paper, reusable and all u need to clean it is some soapy water and let it dry.
K&N filters suck. I have done dyno testing on my wife's car and we got 1hp over the stock filter with a K&N and an aftermarket foam. That's on a 350hp car, why would you need anything more on a 150 hp truck? On my truck the difference between a stock filter covered in nasty crud 1/8" thick and no filter or intake tubes (i.e. open throttle body) was less than 2 hp. Added airflow does equal more power, but adding a new filter doesn't add airflow, it adds airflow capacity. The airflow into the engine is a product of everything between the filter and intake valve. Without fixing the restrictions downstream of the filter the added capacity is no use.
K&N filters suck. I have done dyno testing on my wife's car and we got 1hp over the stock filter with a K&N and an aftermarket foam. That's on a 350hp car, why would you need anything more on a 150 hp truck? On my truck the difference between a stock filter covered in nasty crud 1/8" thick and no filter or intake tubes (i.e. open throttle body) was less than 2 hp. Added airflow does equal more power, but adding a new filter doesn't add airflow, it adds airflow capacity. The airflow into the engine is a product of everything between the filter and intake valve. Without fixing the restrictions downstream of the filter the added capacity is no use.
thank u, that is what i was trying to say. these engines only use so much cfm of air, period. unless there is significant mods (forced induction) there really isnt a need. also notice how most of the dyno reports for the regular filters and even the open element set ups are in the upper power band? who spends thier driving time spinning an engine to 5,000 rpm? maybe on a merge in traffic or on an on ramp.
a better way to look at this is how to make the air intake tempature lower. by insulating the box and ducting from the underhood heat u can increase (slightly) the power and gain mpg. keeping the air tract closed it also the best way to prevent outside contamination. quite a few times i have heard the aftermarket air filters dont seal into the stock boxes right and let dirt in. not to mention the filtering capacity of an oiled cotton gauze compared to a standard weave is significant less. sure the oiled guaze may work better "dirty" but its just that...dirty.
The testing that Vizard did some years ago showed substantial gains in air flow with a K&N...BUT that was on a dyno with a modified sbc. The best stock paper filter was a Motorcraft.
modified small block chevy, 2 more cylinders with 50 more ci and a lot more air flow and rpm. was is carburated? the intake set up is different then a fuel injected.
well i check my gas and i am now getting 15.5 mpg in town. Very low gain in gas mileage and i can't tell any gain in performance. personally not worth the price.
Most of the testing on parts like the K&N is done on high performance, high rpm engines and the results are usually not applicable to stock or mildly modified engines...that is why the "BUT" in my post. K&N also markets stub stacks claiming up to **** cfm gain in carb air flow. But they don't tell you that this gain probably came on something like a small or big block high performance stroker with a large carb spinning at 7000 rpm in a lab on a dyno...but they will certainly sell one to anyone who plunks down the money.
K&N has a great marketing program and it works with the general public.
Of course you will buy it if the claims are more HP AND MPG.
Marketing.
These filters are not the "best" for Ford MAF equipped trucks.
I avoid K&Ns on my EFI equipement, but I think these work great for carbed engines. I.E. big blocks, motorcyles, etc.
With more air flow on EFI trucks, doesn't the computer add more fuel to the engine and lower the MPG ratings?
Probably so but on a carbed engine there most likely wouldn't be enough difference to make a difference in A/F ratio unless spinning at rpms that a 300 I6 just usually doesn't see. A larger snorkel on a stock air cleaner housing might help some with air flow on a carbed engine.
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