How do you sharpen chisels?
I used them the other day to reverse the way a door swings and they were dull and knicked.
I have a pedestal grinder but wasn't able to get a perfect tip on the chisels.
Any suggestions?
I don't have a fancy compound tool rest and don't want to buy one just to sharpen a few chisels.
I used them the other day to reverse the way a door swings and they were dull and knicked.
I have a pedestal grinder but wasn't able to get a perfect tip on the chisels.
Any suggestions?
I don't have a fancy compound tool rest and don't want to buy one just to sharpen a few chisels.
A grinder is just the thing to get the nicks out of your chisels. Grip the chisel w/ your thumb on top and use your knuckle beneath to guide the chisel across the tool rest. Move your whole body side to side with your forearms held against your body.
Just don't get them hot enough to discolor and loose the temper. I find holding a small piece of wet sponge on the back of the blade w/ my thumb while grinding means always having moisture @ hand to cool the blade.
When I'm @ work I use Silicon Carbide sandpaper w/ water as a lubricant to hone the edge rather than carrying around stones and oil. It's only about .79c a sheet, 220,320 & 400 should cover it.
Working on a smooth flat surface like a formica counter flatten and polish the back first, then work on the bevel. Try not to rock the blade and to end up w/ an angle of 25-30 degrees. No need to hone anything but the very edge.
Hope this helps.
A grinder is just the thing to get the nicks out of your chisels. Grip the chisel w/ your thumb on top and use your knuckle beneath to guide the chisel across the tool rest. Move your whole body side to side with your forearms held against your body.
Just don't get them hot enough to discolor and loose the temper. I find holding a small piece of wet sponge on the back of the blade w/ my thumb while grinding means always having moisture @ hand to cool the blade.
When I'm @ work I use Silicon Carbide sandpaper w/ water as a lubricant to hone the edge rather than carrying around stones and oil. It's only about .79c a sheet, 220,320 & 400 should cover it.
Working on a smooth flat surface like a formica counter flatten and polish the back first, then work on the bevel. Try not to rock the blade and to end up w/ an angle of 25-30 degrees. No need to hone anything but the very edge.
Hope this helps.
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I use a belt sander (I have a handheld one that I just lock in a vice upside down) you can control the grit by changing sand paper. Once the big nicks are out, switch to flat sandpaper glued to glass (use 3m spray glue). You can reduce the grit until you get down to 600 or so for rough work, or if you really need it sharp go finer. Use the sandpaper on glass just like a honing stone.
Strop with leather for final bur and keep all fingers and toes away from the sharp end. (yes toes, how else you gonna hold the wood down?).
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I don't have a good tool rest on my pedestal grinder so it is hard to keep everything nice and straight.
I wish I had a disc sander or a belt sander.
But the grind/profile in the cutting face is hollow/lower that the leading edge of the chisel and the back end of the cutting edge. This grid profile lets only the front edge of the chisel do the cutting/work. The back edge is just there to help remove waste.
When using a stone to hone the chisel, use a figure 8 pattern to maximize stone life and provide longer honing strokes.
I use a belt sander too.
I am lazy these days, so I just go buy new ones!
I am lazy these days, so I just go buy new ones![/QUOTE]
I am cheap so I don't want to buy new ones. I didn't even buy these ones. My grandfather was a carpenter and gave them to me.












