Exhaust
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Exhaust
Hey everyone. I am new to this site and I have been on here for about 6 hours reading all the info on exhaust systems. Kemicalburns (hope I spelled that right), you have a lot of good information, but I have some other questions for you, sir.
I have the 351 in a 93 full size. Everything on it is stock right now and I am slowly going to fix it up. You are saying that tru duals do NOT add power? I have only average knowledge of engines and so forth, so thats why I need some clarification. What I was thinking of was changing the manifolds to headers, of course (i see a lot of recommendations for bassani). Then I was going to take each header to its own cat and then to its own muffler (flowmaster 40 series is talked about a lot). This is TRUE duals, right? This will not add power over the stock that I have now?
Then questions on the above: Do i need to put an oxygen sensor in each separate pipe?
Then I read that I will have trouble running these true duals, is that correct? due to the t case? So then if I do the single 3" thing, how does that work with headers? I put headers on, run them into one dual-inlet cat, into a single muffler, and out the stock location (everything being 3")?
I am sorry to have to post yet another question on exhaust. I did all the searching and I literally have been reading for about 6 hours. I do not know what all the X pipe and H pipe stuff is. I thought I was going to slap some headers on and run them straight (well not exactly straight) out the back and I would get big gains. I am open to everyones feed back. I just was directing to Kemicalburns, because I have read a lot of his posts and he seems to know way more than i could ever know. lol.
Thanks guys
New to FTE, Coop
P.S. next I am thinking suspension upgrade. Nothing to really off road with, but I want the lift while still giving ride quality. So I was thinking a 2.5"? Would I be able to put big wheels on that? I was gonna replace all springs and shocks and everything, leaf in back, coil in front, hopefully under $700?
I have the 351 in a 93 full size. Everything on it is stock right now and I am slowly going to fix it up. You are saying that tru duals do NOT add power? I have only average knowledge of engines and so forth, so thats why I need some clarification. What I was thinking of was changing the manifolds to headers, of course (i see a lot of recommendations for bassani). Then I was going to take each header to its own cat and then to its own muffler (flowmaster 40 series is talked about a lot). This is TRUE duals, right? This will not add power over the stock that I have now?
Then questions on the above: Do i need to put an oxygen sensor in each separate pipe?
Then I read that I will have trouble running these true duals, is that correct? due to the t case? So then if I do the single 3" thing, how does that work with headers? I put headers on, run them into one dual-inlet cat, into a single muffler, and out the stock location (everything being 3")?
I am sorry to have to post yet another question on exhaust. I did all the searching and I literally have been reading for about 6 hours. I do not know what all the X pipe and H pipe stuff is. I thought I was going to slap some headers on and run them straight (well not exactly straight) out the back and I would get big gains. I am open to everyones feed back. I just was directing to Kemicalburns, because I have read a lot of his posts and he seems to know way more than i could ever know. lol.
Thanks guys
New to FTE, Coop
P.S. next I am thinking suspension upgrade. Nothing to really off road with, but I want the lift while still giving ride quality. So I was thinking a 2.5"? Would I be able to put big wheels on that? I was gonna replace all springs and shocks and everything, leaf in back, coil in front, hopefully under $700?
Last edited by CoopsBronco; Jan 31, 2008 at 04:21 PM.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
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From: Bend,OR
Originally Posted by CoopsBronco
Hey everyone. I am new to this site and I have been on here for about 6 hours reading all the info on exhaust systems. Kemicalburns (hope I spelled that right), you have a lot of good information, but I have some other questions for you, sir.
I have the 351 in a 93 full size. Everything on it is stock right now and I am slowly going to fix it up. You are saying that tru duals do NOT add power? I have only average knowledge of engines and so forth, so thats why I need some clarification. What I was thinking of was changing the manifolds to headers, of course (i see a lot of recommendations for bassani). Then I was going to take each header to its own cat and then to its own muffler (flowmaster 40 series is talked about a lot). This is TRUE duals, right? This will not add power over the stock that I have now?
yes that is true duals. duals are great for HI hp applications and for duals to work at there best should run with the least amount of bends possible. since the Tcase is in the way routing duals can be difficult and expensive.
Then questions on the above: Do i need to put an oxygen sensor in each separate pipe? no if you have only 1 o2 sensor make sure its in at least 1 of the header collector locations in a bung. if no bung is present a shop can weld one in
Then I read that I will have trouble running these true duals, is that correct? due to the t case? So then if I do the single 3" thing, how does that work with headers? I put headers on, run them into one dual-inlet cat, into a single muffler, and out the stock location (everything being 3")? to make this super easy and still get decent performance i suggest running a good set of shorty headers like gibson,jba,edelbrock,bbk or bassani. you would then run a bassani y pipe which bolts up to those headers and has a spot for the o2 sensor similar to your stock y pipe now. you can get this y pipe with or without a cat. Most say to run long tube headers which will give better performance but can be a real pain to install properly and tend to kill starters easier as well
I am sorry to have to post yet another question on exhaust. I did all the searching and I literally have been reading for about 6 hours. I do not know what all the X pipe and H pipe stuff is. I thought I was going to slap some headers on and run them straight (well not exactly straight) out the back and I would get big gains. I am open to everyones feed back. I just was directing to Kemicalburns, because I have read a lot of his posts and he seems to know way more than i could ever know. lol. if you go with the single setup you wont need to worry about the whole x & h pipe setups those are only necessary on dual exhaust applications. I would also look into the hooker Areochamber muffler, you can get this in a single in and dual out so it appears you have duals and this muffler wont drone in the cab while driving down the road but sound better then the flowmaster in my opinnion.
Thanks guys
New to FTE, Coop
P.S. next I am thinking suspension upgrade. Nothing to really off road with, but I want the lift while still giving ride quality. So I was thinking a 2.5"? Would I be able to put big wheels on that? I was gonna replace all springs and shocks and everything, leaf in back, coil in front, hopefully under $700?
I have the 351 in a 93 full size. Everything on it is stock right now and I am slowly going to fix it up. You are saying that tru duals do NOT add power? I have only average knowledge of engines and so forth, so thats why I need some clarification. What I was thinking of was changing the manifolds to headers, of course (i see a lot of recommendations for bassani). Then I was going to take each header to its own cat and then to its own muffler (flowmaster 40 series is talked about a lot). This is TRUE duals, right? This will not add power over the stock that I have now?
yes that is true duals. duals are great for HI hp applications and for duals to work at there best should run with the least amount of bends possible. since the Tcase is in the way routing duals can be difficult and expensive.
Then questions on the above: Do i need to put an oxygen sensor in each separate pipe? no if you have only 1 o2 sensor make sure its in at least 1 of the header collector locations in a bung. if no bung is present a shop can weld one in
Then I read that I will have trouble running these true duals, is that correct? due to the t case? So then if I do the single 3" thing, how does that work with headers? I put headers on, run them into one dual-inlet cat, into a single muffler, and out the stock location (everything being 3")? to make this super easy and still get decent performance i suggest running a good set of shorty headers like gibson,jba,edelbrock,bbk or bassani. you would then run a bassani y pipe which bolts up to those headers and has a spot for the o2 sensor similar to your stock y pipe now. you can get this y pipe with or without a cat. Most say to run long tube headers which will give better performance but can be a real pain to install properly and tend to kill starters easier as well
I am sorry to have to post yet another question on exhaust. I did all the searching and I literally have been reading for about 6 hours. I do not know what all the X pipe and H pipe stuff is. I thought I was going to slap some headers on and run them straight (well not exactly straight) out the back and I would get big gains. I am open to everyones feed back. I just was directing to Kemicalburns, because I have read a lot of his posts and he seems to know way more than i could ever know. lol. if you go with the single setup you wont need to worry about the whole x & h pipe setups those are only necessary on dual exhaust applications. I would also look into the hooker Areochamber muffler, you can get this in a single in and dual out so it appears you have duals and this muffler wont drone in the cab while driving down the road but sound better then the flowmaster in my opinnion.
Thanks guys
New to FTE, Coop
P.S. next I am thinking suspension upgrade. Nothing to really off road with, but I want the lift while still giving ride quality. So I was thinking a 2.5"? Would I be able to put big wheels on that? I was gonna replace all springs and shocks and everything, leaf in back, coil in front, hopefully under $700?
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Originally Posted by Kemicalburns
you can run a 33" tire with a stock lift on that year bronco, you just have to shim out the front bumper a little or remove that bottom plastic piece that hangs below the bumper. i would go this route first if money is tight otherwise go with a 4" lift and get rear add a leaf vs blocks .
And with the 4" lift, would i have to have a driveshaft special made or anything? I have always heard that when you do the lift, you have other mods to do that people don't know right off the bat.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
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From: Bend,OR
correct on the exhaust part. also check around to a few shops and get quotes on getting you setup.
the 4" wont require driveline work, i have a 6" and they are fine. you would be amazed how much better the bronco will ride with the 4" on there. if you can afford a full rear leaf springs vs the AAL that would be the best solution. look into BDS they have the best warranty (no questions asked) policy. skyjacker,superlift are also good brands.
the 4" wont require driveline work, i have a 6" and they are fine. you would be amazed how much better the bronco will ride with the 4" on there. if you can afford a full rear leaf springs vs the AAL that would be the best solution. look into BDS they have the best warranty (no questions asked) policy. skyjacker,superlift are also good brands.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Oromocto NB
I agree with Kemicalburns! Duals are over rated for a bronco, besides duals should be of equal length and you can't do that on a bronco, nor would you see any gain unless your trying to get a fraction of a second out of a 600hp drag car. 3" exhaust is the way to go, plus you won't look like a dumb *** to all of us that know.
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Originally Posted by bossind
I agree with Kemicalburns! Duals are over rated for a bronco, besides duals should be of equal length and you can't do that on a bronco, nor would you see any gain unless your trying to get a fraction of a second out of a 600hp drag car. 3" exhaust is the way to go, plus you won't look like a dumb *** to all of us that know.
Kemical, yeah I was planning on replacing the rear leafs, but what is an AAL? I would rather do the add-a-leafs instead of the blocks, like you mentioned. That would add a little extra towing strength or load capacity, right?
On the shop....I really would like to try this job myself. I am pretty confident i can do the headers to the y to the cat. After that I was thinking of taking it to the shop to have them do the bends and put the muffler on. I did read on here that a guy was having issues getting an old manifold off; stripped a bolt and stuff? I am hoping I wouldn't run into any of that. I have torches and stuff if the bolts won't come out. Do you guys think its a job that an average mechanic could take care of. I am pretty decent with my hands, I just don't know about all this stuff that you guys know as far as numbers and issues and so forth.
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From: Oromocto NB
Originally Posted by CoopsBronco
LOLOLOLOL!!!!!!!!! Thanks Boss!!! I would really appreciate not lookin like a dumb ***. lol. Anyway, I appreciate the info and the second opinion. I had heard that they need to be the same length.
Kemical, yeah I was planning on replacing the rear leafs, but what is an AAL? I would rather do the add-a-leafs instead of the blocks, like you mentioned. That would add a little extra towing strength or load capacity, right?
On the shop....I really would like to try this job myself. I am pretty confident i can do the headers to the y to the cat. After that I was thinking of taking it to the shop to have them do the bends and put the muffler on. I did read on here that a guy was having issues getting an old manifold off; stripped a bolt and stuff? I am hoping I wouldn't run into any of that. I have torches and stuff if the bolts won't come out. Do you guys think its a job that an average mechanic could take care of. I am pretty decent with my hands, I just don't know about all this stuff that you guys know as far as numbers and issues and so forth.
Kemical, yeah I was planning on replacing the rear leafs, but what is an AAL? I would rather do the add-a-leafs instead of the blocks, like you mentioned. That would add a little extra towing strength or load capacity, right?
On the shop....I really would like to try this job myself. I am pretty confident i can do the headers to the y to the cat. After that I was thinking of taking it to the shop to have them do the bends and put the muffler on. I did read on here that a guy was having issues getting an old manifold off; stripped a bolt and stuff? I am hoping I wouldn't run into any of that. I have torches and stuff if the bolts won't come out. Do you guys think its a job that an average mechanic could take care of. I am pretty decent with my hands, I just don't know about all this stuff that you guys know as far as numbers and issues and so forth.
http://www.4x4preservation.com/forum...read.php?t=201
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[QUOTE=bossind]This might help you other than on the headers.
http://www.4x4preservation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201[/QUOTE]
WOW! hell yeah that will help!! cool. i preciate it. that was not on this site right? i never saw any directions from anyone thru my searching
http://www.4x4preservation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201[/QUOTE]
WOW! hell yeah that will help!! cool. i preciate it. that was not on this site right? i never saw any directions from anyone thru my searching
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I found out what AALs are. lol. WOW, that was kinda commonsense. lol! it was on this article. Is this a pretty good article? Theres stuff in there about brake lines needing lengthened and control arms and stuff:
"Some things you should know straight up: If you're going for a larger lift (3" plus), then you will most likely need longer lower control arms and longer shocks. You will also need to lengthen the front and rear brake lines. If you lift 4" or more, then you will need longer upper control arms as well. Plus, you will want a longer trackbar, and you might need to add longer emergency brake lines. "
http://4wheeldrive.about.com/od/suspensionbodyliftkits/a/body_lift_kits.htm
"Some things you should know straight up: If you're going for a larger lift (3" plus), then you will most likely need longer lower control arms and longer shocks. You will also need to lengthen the front and rear brake lines. If you lift 4" or more, then you will need longer upper control arms as well. Plus, you will want a longer trackbar, and you might need to add longer emergency brake lines. "
http://4wheeldrive.about.com/od/suspensionbodyliftkits/a/body_lift_kits.htm
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Oromocto NB
[QUOTE=CoopsBronco]
Just my site I post all my bronco builds there, heres the root, lots of little how tos for ya.
http://www.4x4preservation.com/forum...splay.php?f=23
Originally Posted by bossind
This might help you other than on the headers.
http://www.4x4preservation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201[/QUOTE]
WOW! hell yeah that will help!! cool. i preciate it. that was not on this site right? i never saw any directions from anyone thru my searching
http://www.4x4preservation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201[/QUOTE]
WOW! hell yeah that will help!! cool. i preciate it. that was not on this site right? i never saw any directions from anyone thru my searching
http://www.4x4preservation.com/forum...splay.php?f=23
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[QUOTE=bossind][QUOTE=CoopsBronco]
Just my site I post all my bronco builds there, heres the root, lots of little how tos for ya.
http://www.4x4preservation.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=23[/QUOTE]
Good good. I appreciate that. I will check it out.
Just my site I post all my bronco builds there, heres the root, lots of little how tos for ya.
http://www.4x4preservation.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=23[/QUOTE]
Good good. I appreciate that. I will check it out.
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Calgary, Alberta
Hey Coop I am just finishing up headers on my truck it has 5.0L motor in it.Both my exhuast manifolds were cracked right in half.Getting them off was my biggest concern however it ended up being the easiest part of the job.Some studs that held on other things broke but not in heads just up to the next bolt.You'll understand when you start taking them off.The ones I bought were shorty headers for a Mustang and bolted to the heads no problem but the rest had to be built as nothing else lined up or fit back together.My rig is not a DD so Iam a cheap sob when it comes to fixing it.I had two pieces of pipe flared at the exhaust shop to match up to the collectors on the headers and then cut and welded as needed to run it into the stock y pipe using the stock piping.See I told you I was cheap didn't I.LOL.I am not suggesting this is a good route to go it just what I decided to do.I checked out Boss's link and that is way nicer and I'm sure performs much better.
I also installed a 6" susp lift in my garage with fairly common hand tools and a couple of buddy's so you should be alright there. I did my lift way before I found this site with the included intructions which were vague and a haynes book.Upper and lower control arms are for the newer style IFS vehicles also called a-arms sometimes and I think other brands called radius arms this too.Anyway you don't got them.You have pivot points for your axle housing,radius arms to hold/control your axle,coils to suspend your axle, shocks to control your coils and a anti-sway bar to control body roll.A kit or system will provide all the parts you need to change all this so you can lift your bronc.
Brake lines are typcally not part of the kits/systems, my shop told me they were optional for a 4" and necessary for a 6" so I got them.I have a kit on my truck which again is the cheap and not as functional route.
Kit = drop radius arm brackets and blocks for rear, rest is similar
system= extended arms for more travel(axle movement) and lift springs for the rear. there is also aal which is kinda in between.
Of course there are prolly some more extreme options but these are the two most common ways to go from what I know.
Hope this helps.
I also installed a 6" susp lift in my garage with fairly common hand tools and a couple of buddy's so you should be alright there. I did my lift way before I found this site with the included intructions which were vague and a haynes book.Upper and lower control arms are for the newer style IFS vehicles also called a-arms sometimes and I think other brands called radius arms this too.Anyway you don't got them.You have pivot points for your axle housing,radius arms to hold/control your axle,coils to suspend your axle, shocks to control your coils and a anti-sway bar to control body roll.A kit or system will provide all the parts you need to change all this so you can lift your bronc.
Brake lines are typcally not part of the kits/systems, my shop told me they were optional for a 4" and necessary for a 6" so I got them.I have a kit on my truck which again is the cheap and not as functional route.
Kit = drop radius arm brackets and blocks for rear, rest is similar
system= extended arms for more travel(axle movement) and lift springs for the rear. there is also aal which is kinda in between.
Of course there are prolly some more extreme options but these are the two most common ways to go from what I know.
Hope this helps.
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Originally Posted by 89F1fiddy
Hey Coop I am just finishing up headers on my truck it has 5.0L motor in it.Both my exhuast manifolds were cracked right in half.Getting them off was my biggest concern however it ended up being the easiest part of the job.Some studs that held on other things broke but not in heads just up to the next bolt.You'll understand when you start taking them off.The ones I bought were shorty headers for a Mustang and bolted to the heads no problem but the rest had to be built as nothing else lined up or fit back together.My rig is not a DD so Iam a cheap sob when it comes to fixing it.I had two pieces of pipe flared at the exhaust shop to match up to the collectors on the headers and then cut and welded as needed to run it into the stock y pipe using the stock piping.See I told you I was cheap didn't I.LOL.I am not suggesting this is a good route to go it just what I decided to do.I checked out Boss's link and that is way nicer and I'm sure performs much better.
I also installed a 6" susp lift in my garage with fairly common hand tools and a couple of buddy's so you should be alright there. I did my lift way before I found this site with the included intructions which were vague and a haynes book.Upper and lower control arms are for the newer style IFS vehicles also called a-arms sometimes and I think other brands called radius arms this too.Anyway you don't got them.You have pivot points for your axle housing,radius arms to hold/control your axle,coils to suspend your axle, shocks to control your coils and a anti-sway bar to control body roll.A kit or system will provide all the parts you need to change all this so you can lift your bronc.
Brake lines are typcally not part of the kits/systems, my shop told me they were optional for a 4" and necessary for a 6" so I got them.I have a kit on my truck which again is the cheap and not as functional route.
Kit = drop radius arm brackets and blocks for rear, rest is similar
system= extended arms for more travel(axle movement) and lift springs for the rear. there is also aal which is kinda in between.
Of course there are prolly some more extreme options but these are the two most common ways to go from what I know.
Hope this helps.
I also installed a 6" susp lift in my garage with fairly common hand tools and a couple of buddy's so you should be alright there. I did my lift way before I found this site with the included intructions which were vague and a haynes book.Upper and lower control arms are for the newer style IFS vehicles also called a-arms sometimes and I think other brands called radius arms this too.Anyway you don't got them.You have pivot points for your axle housing,radius arms to hold/control your axle,coils to suspend your axle, shocks to control your coils and a anti-sway bar to control body roll.A kit or system will provide all the parts you need to change all this so you can lift your bronc.
Brake lines are typcally not part of the kits/systems, my shop told me they were optional for a 4" and necessary for a 6" so I got them.I have a kit on my truck which again is the cheap and not as functional route.
Kit = drop radius arm brackets and blocks for rear, rest is similar
system= extended arms for more travel(axle movement) and lift springs for the rear. there is also aal which is kinda in between.
Of course there are prolly some more extreme options but these are the two most common ways to go from what I know.
Hope this helps.
I know all this info will help me out like you wouldnt believe. I have a better understanding on the lif now, and I was thinking i should be able to do a 4" without too much fabrication. I put new brake lines on the bronco anyway, so it should be a problem extending them a lil bit. Its the ones going to the calibers, right?
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 49
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From: Calgary, Alberta
Yes I am pretty sure my issues were do to the fact they were for a mustang, I was expecting these issues going into the project but I got a smokin deal on the headers and knew I could make it work.If you buy stuff specifically for your bronc you should have less issues to deal with. I just got my Peterson's mag and they have a decent article in there about building this stuff yourself, you should check it out.Depending on where you live seems to be an important factor when getting some of the old rusty bolts off.If you live close to salt water or a place that uses lots of salt in the winter then you could have more problems getting your old manifolds off.Good luck I hope they come out easy for ya.
As for brake lines, yes it is the soft rubber lines that get replaced. There is also a single one at the rear that bolts onto your diff and goes to two hard lines. The replacements are stainless steel braided lines that are pretty nice.
As for brake lines, yes it is the soft rubber lines that get replaced. There is also a single one at the rear that bolts onto your diff and goes to two hard lines. The replacements are stainless steel braided lines that are pretty nice.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
just understand that headers are the one item you dont wont to go cheap on. the summit brands are one of those that are best left at the store.
Depending on your year coop you may or may not need extended brake lines. my 94 with 6" lift didnt require extended lines. i just had to relocate the bracket down a bit is all. if you get a lift either 4" or 6" i would go with extended radius arms instead of the drop brackets commonly found on the rough county lift kits. the extended arms will alow for better travel, less stress on the frame and help the alignment shop get it aligned properly.
on the header bolts soak them daily for a few days with liquid wrench. also get 1" long allen head header bolts and some good quality gaskets.
Hey boss whats the part number for that maramount 3" tailpipe, this would work out great for coop in his exhaust build. this part coop is cheap at like autozone or napa $35 i think and its a 3" exhaust tail pipe that would run from the muffler out the stock location.
Depending on your year coop you may or may not need extended brake lines. my 94 with 6" lift didnt require extended lines. i just had to relocate the bracket down a bit is all. if you get a lift either 4" or 6" i would go with extended radius arms instead of the drop brackets commonly found on the rough county lift kits. the extended arms will alow for better travel, less stress on the frame and help the alignment shop get it aligned properly.
on the header bolts soak them daily for a few days with liquid wrench. also get 1" long allen head header bolts and some good quality gaskets.
Hey boss whats the part number for that maramount 3" tailpipe, this would work out great for coop in his exhaust build. this part coop is cheap at like autozone or napa $35 i think and its a 3" exhaust tail pipe that would run from the muffler out the stock location.