Exhaust
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Good good! Thanks Fiddy and Kemical. Man, I am excited as hell!!!! I ran into an unexpected deal with the brakes so that is going to set me back a bit on the exhaust and lift. Had to get a new rotor, caliper, and pads for the passenger. Already got a caliper for the driver, but might as well do the rotor also, since the passenger's done. that way i know its all good down there. Plus, my 4 wheel auto lockouts are f-ed up on the passenger side. so I gotta get that changed too. but yeah, i am writing all this down so i can get it done by spring. I appreciate all the info. you guys are top notch.
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Originally Posted by Kemicalburns
dont put auto hubs back on. change them both for warn premium hubs. the auto hubs are prone to failure.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
no i was talking about your 4wheel drive auto locks. you said you needed to replace one of them because they werent working right?? thats why i suggested the warn premium locking hubs.
your doing fine on the rotor caliper deal.
your doing fine on the rotor caliper deal.
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 49
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From: Calgary, Alberta
I'll second that on the Warn premium hubs, that's what I have and they work and look great.You will find the word hub is used quite liberally when dicussing 4x4's.Part of the rotor is also part of the hub, that is where your wheel bearings are.The parts on the end of your front axles that make your 4x4 engage(lock) are also referred to as hubs.I have the auto hubs on my bronc and manual hubs on my offroad truck.I'll put manual hubs on once the auto's crap out.Manual hubs are known to be much more reliable and able to withstand more abuse than the auto hubs.The only and I emphasize only down side of manauls is you have to get out of truck and turn the dial to engage 4x4.Some people just leave them locked and keep the t-case in 2hi till they need 4x4 like in the winter time.
Don't worry you will figure out all the terminology once you start breaking and replacing parts as you are now with your front brake job, it's all part of the game.
Don't worry you will figure out all the terminology once you start breaking and replacing parts as you are now with your front brake job, it's all part of the game.
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WHEW!! ok...scared me a little bit. Yeah I called today and can get a PAIR of manual lockouts for 159, which isnt bad, i guess, compared to that would be the price of one auto lockout from the dealer. Forgot to ask if they were Warn though, but I'll check. I ended up not getting the auto lockout all the way in when i did the rotor and hub and it started f-in up on me yesterday. I think it was partially engaging and the thing doesnt even work on that side anyway! I thought I didnt get the bearings in all the way and was scared as HELL!! lol. Yeah you r right, fiddy, i should be a pro like y'all when i get done breaking and fixing all this stuff. lol. Then i will be the one givin advice! lololol.
I am gonna go ahead and change the rotor and hub on the other side too, i think. This way I know everything is good on the brakes and stuff. I got ball joints to put on and getting tie rod ends to put on when i do the suspension, so i will know all that stuff is good to. Pretty soon it'll be a 2008 Bronco instead of a 93. what do u think. lol
I am gonna go ahead and change the rotor and hub on the other side too, i think. This way I know everything is good on the brakes and stuff. I got ball joints to put on and getting tie rod ends to put on when i do the suspension, so i will know all that stuff is good to. Pretty soon it'll be a 2008 Bronco instead of a 93. what do u think. lol
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Calgary, Alberta
I am gonna go ahead and change the rotor and hub on the other side too, i think. This way I know everything is good on the brakes and stuff. I got ball joints to put on and getting tie rod ends to put on when i do the suspension, so i will know all that stuff is good to. Pretty soon it'll be a 2008 Bronco instead of a 93. what do u think. lol[/QUOTE]
I am not sure what a good price is for the manual hubs, I bought mine used but new in box for $100.00.It is a great idea to replace those front end parts when you do your lift.You need a wheel alignment after you do the lift anyway.Be sure to find a good alignment shop as you will get to know them quite well down the road.The only time my truck has visited the shop is for a wheel alignment.
I am not sure what a good price is for the manual hubs, I bought mine used but new in box for $100.00.It is a great idea to replace those front end parts when you do your lift.You need a wheel alignment after you do the lift anyway.Be sure to find a good alignment shop as you will get to know them quite well down the road.The only time my truck has visited the shop is for a wheel alignment.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
check out summitracing , 4wheelcustoms.com places like that for Warn Premiums they shouldnt be more then $100
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Originally Posted by Kemicalburns
check out summitracing , 4wheelcustoms.com places like that for Warn Premiums they shouldnt be more then $100
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
you may or may not need the conversion kit. depends on what type of auto hub you have. you might try a search on here for auto to manual hub swap. Yes you will need to climb out of the rig to lock in the hubs, hit the button to get tcase into 4wd. you can leave the front hubs locked during the winter if you like and it wont hurt anything. just try to avoid having the bronco in 4wd while on dry pavment.
most with the push button tcase had auto hubs. but you will find that most the guys on here and a few other sites swap the hubs first then when the electric tcase motor goes they swap to a manual Tcase
most with the push button tcase had auto hubs. but you will find that most the guys on here and a few other sites swap the hubs first then when the electric tcase motor goes they swap to a manual Tcase
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Originally Posted by Kemicalburns
you may or may not need the conversion kit. depends on what type of auto hub you have. you might try a search on here for auto to manual hub swap. Yes you will need to climb out of the rig to lock in the hubs, hit the button to get tcase into 4wd. you can leave the front hubs locked during the winter if you like and it wont hurt anything. just try to avoid having the bronco in 4wd while on dry pavment.
most with the push button tcase had auto hubs. but you will find that most the guys on here and a few other sites swap the hubs first then when the electric tcase motor goes they swap to a manual Tcase
most with the push button tcase had auto hubs. but you will find that most the guys on here and a few other sites swap the hubs first then when the electric tcase motor goes they swap to a manual Tcase
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Longwood, Fl
rmv old conv
One other thing for consideration that I did on my 93 Bronco when I put on my 3" conv. In the link there is a pix of the pipe after the converter was cut off (looking forward). Notice how that "S" shaped piece of pipe is clocked at 11 o'clock toward the tranny right at the cooler lines. I took the header pipes off and made a cut at the front of it (where it joined the pre-heater) and re-clocked it to about 1 o'clock, closer to the frame and welded it on in that position. Then when I added my 3" converter (one hot SOB) to the pipe there. Gives me more room at the tranny to one day (yea right) put a temp sensor in the line that exits to the cooler. That will be the true temp of the oil, not in the pan. I had to settle for 3" compression bend, still bigger than the OEM.
What do you think of Mustang shorties and cats, with the crossover behind the tranny pan and before the Xfer case into a dual inlet muffler with a 3" single outlet. Mustang shorties now come in cracker-jack boxes
What do you think of Mustang shorties and cats, with the crossover behind the tranny pan and before the Xfer case into a dual inlet muffler with a 3" single outlet. Mustang shorties now come in cracker-jack boxes
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Longwood, Fl
Mustang headers
Aw Sh----ucks 
There goes another idea---but then the drivers side bends arent pretty either. Just happen to have a set of used SVO unequal shorties. Maybe the 7-11 will take them in on trade for a beverage of some sort.
I have a set of "P" heads laying around---have thoughts about them, dont know what else to do with them.
There goes another idea---but then the drivers side bends arent pretty either. Just happen to have a set of used SVO unequal shorties. Maybe the 7-11 will take them in on trade for a beverage of some sort.
I have a set of "P" heads laying around---have thoughts about them, dont know what else to do with them.
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