Hello everybody, I'm new to the list so I apologize if I bring up things you've all talked about before. I have a 1979 F250 2WD with a 460. This is the second one I've owned since 1982 and intend to keep this one forever, let her park proudly next to my '56 Studebaker Golden Hawk!

The truck only has 124,000 miles on it and the engine feels and sounds strong. Except for a valve cover oil leak, bad carb and low oil pressure she's good. My problem is the low oil pressure. Last year the timing chain broke so I had it towed to my mechanic and had it replaced. Ever since then the oil pressure has been so low that I stopped driving it. It starts out high and fine, but once she warms up it barely registers. My mechanic figures parts of the timing gears fell into the pan and plug the oil pump. Instead of a complete rebuild on this motor I'd like to pull it, clean out the pan replace the oil pump, grind the crank and put in new bearings. Since the lifters are quite and it doesn't blow any smoke I don't think a complete rebuild is really needed. But, if I go to all this work tightening up the lower end, will the top end give? I've been told that this isn't a wise decision on an older high mileage motor. But what's considered high mileage? I've had 460's go well into the 200K range before I needed to do anything.

On a side note the body has seen better days so I'll be redoing that over the next year. The plan is to eventually get the truck like new, but I'd like to be able to drive it during the restoration process without sinking thousands into the motor at the out set of the project.

Thanks!

 

To do all that bottom end work (pull crank, new bearings, etc) It really is worth it to just spend the extra couple and freshen up everything else.. new cam is cheap, and worth it...
Pull your cam out and check the cam bearings. That's a major cause of oil pressure loss in the 385-series, because the cam gets all the oil pressure first, then sends it to the main bearings... so if the cam brgs are shot, then it's not worth it to rebuild the bottom end until you have them replaced.
So, once you get new cam brgs(assuming they bad) then you have your machinist match your brgs to your new cam (assuming you splurged a little and got it)
THEN you put the bottom end back together (crank, brgs, etc.)
If you feel up to it, I would suggest pulling your heads off, dropping pistons, and cleaning them up too, with new rings as well.
Nothing is worth doing unless done right.. just keep that in mind.. Course, It could just be that piece of junk in the pump screen, in which case you drop the pan, scrape it off, and run it..... Best of luck to ya.

J/.c

1965 Ford Galaxie 500 (okay, so not quite a truck)
ANOTHER 460/C6 @ 365hp/519 lb.ft.
14.36@100.4, 16-18 mpg AHHAAAHAAAHAAA!

 

when you say low oil pressure, are you looking at the idiot gauge on the dash that will probally show low, or do you have a mechanical oil pressure gauge mounted in the truck.

 

It's the stock dash gauge. But since there was a major change after the timing chain repair I figured something must be up. I don't believe it to be 100% accurate though. If it truly was as low as the gauge states, I would think I'd here the lifters or some other knocking from the pistons. That's not the case here.

I guess if I pull the motor and the screen is in fact plugged I could just clean it and put it back in. But since I'll have the motor out (just to pull the pan! Man!) I figured why not go a little further. And as I see, why not a little further and go with the cam, rings etc. I can see where this is going...

I had a similar dilema with a '71 Bronco with a 302. Figured I'd just put new bearings, rings etc. But after I got into it it really needed to be re-bored so I went with new pistons and on and on. Sure was a good motor when I got done though!

 

If you intend to keep it forever and you're pulling the engine anyway, why not do a complete rebuild while you have the engine out of the truck? Even if your mechanic does the work, it'll be less expensive now than him doing it down the line.

 

True, it would be cheaper now than later. Unfortunetly I have 2 kids under 2 that require regular infusions of cash, which I suppose even later they will too!! Anyway, right now it'd be tough to swing a complete rebuild with a rebore and new pistons. If all I need to do is clean it up and put in rings that'd be doable. Guess I'll just need to get it out and see what she looks like a go from there!

I wonder how my wife will appreciate a $2000 transimission rebuild on my Studebaker and a $2000 engine rebuild on my truck engine in one year? Gee, I wonder how that conversation will go, may need to make some choices....

 

I'm just going through the things your talking about.
I pulled the engine because I needed to see all the parts, and I'm not strong enough to pull the heads and Manifolds out of that hole.

I found a Couple of bad valves, and had new cam bearings installed, and the cylinders honed and the Heads and valve seats inspected, and bought an overhaul kit from NAPA, and a new Timing chain and gear for just over $300 bucks.
I got the Cam and lifters from Summit Racing for $105, and one other little item for $13 bucks. That was a straight up timing gear from a 68 lincoln 460 from AutoZone.

So that's all you have to spend if everything is OK. My Crank and Cylinders mic'd STD and I plasti-guaged the new bearings, all of them, (Whew) and all show about .001 to .002 which should be OK.
Fitting that big thing back in the Pickup was a Booger for a guy working by himself.
I think it's better to pull the engine. It's better for your peace of mind anyway, and it's easier to clean the block up, and lots of other good reasons. You must be so very very clean, and you cant do that on your back under the Truck.

You can take all the pieces at the same time, to the Automotive machinist and get all the information you need without unloading it from the bed of your pickup.
It's been fun, but I'll be gladder when I can Driv'er!

 

Seriously... Yea, Im back..
ON the topic of financial problems, I too have them.. I am a (just graduated) high school student, and I'm unemployed.. I put my engine together on a minimum of cashflow (like 200 bucks a week) while still making all my necessities work out (which, I understand, is not truly comparable to your 2 kids, but you get the point Im sure.)
I have a total of 1100 dollars invested in my engine, and it's a fairly hot rebuild.. I could have done a lot less and still ended up with a strong 460.
Block: 350 w/transmission
Machinework: 95 (install new cam brgs, deck heads) The cyl's hardly ever go bad, unless you suck something down there that shouldnt be down there and score the cyl.. No boring, just run a dingle-ball hone down it with your hand drill..The crank, if it mic's standard, wont need nothing but brgs.
Rebuild Kit: 479 PAW perf. kit.

I just essentially re-ringed, re-cammed, and re-bearinged my engine.. everything Plasigaged at less than .002", and not a problem so far.. Including all the nifty little gadgets and such, I have about 1100 into the engine.. Really, you could get away with less than 600, if your block is in decent shape.. New rings, brgs, of COURSE a cam... gaskets, put her back together and let her run...
Best of luck to you.. If you have any more questions, by all means, email me...
Dual_Uzis(No Email Addresses In Posts!)

J/.c

1965 Ford Galaxie 500 (okay, so not quite a truck)
ANOTHER 460/C6 @ 365hp/519 lb.ft.
14.36@100.4, 16-18 mpg AHHAAAHAAAHAAA!