no start but will start with soliniod jump
#1
no start but will start with soliniod jump
hey everyone i have a 94 F1 with the 302 and i have to jump the truck with a vise grips on the starting solinoid after i shut the truck off with the Ign key and try to start it it rolles over for a split second then stops everything wants to start it cuts the power to everything wjen i turn the key to start like any normal vehicle but dont turn over any ideas? sulinoid junk or bad contact maybe?
feel free to chime in THanks
feel free to chime in THanks
#3
Is he talking about the starter relay on the fender, or the solenoid on the starter. I couldn't tell by his description. My ol' 92 went 140K and 15 years. Solenoid was still quite good, as well as relay, but bearings/brushes in the starter were caving in. Found that out before I found a dead cable clamp on the battery and put a new starter on. But my symptom was a little different. Got a loud clunk when the relay and solenoid picked up, but starter didn't budge. Cable going direct to starter had blown inside the lead clamp. That doesn't quite sound like his problem, though.
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#6
Originally Posted by sledguy24
no the relay on the fender sorry
If you're trying to save some bucks and you want to test it, put +12v to the bottom post (at 6 oclock) and ground the backing plate. You should hear a click when you do this and another click when you remove the ground on the backing plate.
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Uhhh, nope. Relay on fender just picks up the solenoid. If he's jumpering at the solenoid, chances are he's a victim of the crispy critter connector with the slide-on spade connector on the solenoid. There should be a wire that's about a 10 gauge wire going to the solenoid from the relay. One going from the battery to the solenoid (large post) that's about a #4 AWG. Solenoid's still there, just operated differently. That eliminates the heavy arcing from the EEC without large diodes involved. The battery will filter off the spikes from the starter current. Fender mounted relay has a built in diode.
Ennyhoo, back on topic, ALL replacement starters come with a threaded stud for the solenoid connection, a short piece of wire with a ring-lug crimped on it, and a butt splice to replace the infamous spade connector. There is a Ford Service Advisory on this no-start problem, but I can't point to it right now. While mine had not quit working yet, all the plastic insulation was melted and bubbly on that connection when I replaced my starter. So, I KNOW it gets a lot hotter than it should. Redesigned connection solves the problem. If he can short the big post to the small spade on the solenoid and start the truck, nothing wrong with the solenoid. Just the connection from the relay to the solenoid, and most probably, at the slide-on spade connector. It may be the relay contacts, but that's a pretty big relay and not much current. A Thomas & Betts RB10-250F connector will probably work there, but you're just post-poning the inevitable. Get a new solenoid if you don't want to replace the whole starter. It should have the threaded stud and patch kit. You'll still have to pull the starter to get the solenoid off, though. While you have it out, at least check the brushes/bearings in it. You may opt for a whole new starter once you see the insides. I'd tear it down before I went to the parts house, and if I didn't like what I saw, reassemble, and just take it with me for a core.
Ennyhoo, back on topic, ALL replacement starters come with a threaded stud for the solenoid connection, a short piece of wire with a ring-lug crimped on it, and a butt splice to replace the infamous spade connector. There is a Ford Service Advisory on this no-start problem, but I can't point to it right now. While mine had not quit working yet, all the plastic insulation was melted and bubbly on that connection when I replaced my starter. So, I KNOW it gets a lot hotter than it should. Redesigned connection solves the problem. If he can short the big post to the small spade on the solenoid and start the truck, nothing wrong with the solenoid. Just the connection from the relay to the solenoid, and most probably, at the slide-on spade connector. It may be the relay contacts, but that's a pretty big relay and not much current. A Thomas & Betts RB10-250F connector will probably work there, but you're just post-poning the inevitable. Get a new solenoid if you don't want to replace the whole starter. It should have the threaded stud and patch kit. You'll still have to pull the starter to get the solenoid off, though. While you have it out, at least check the brushes/bearings in it. You may opt for a whole new starter once you see the insides. I'd tear it down before I went to the parts house, and if I didn't like what I saw, reassemble, and just take it with me for a core.
#11
Originally Posted by Old_Paint
Uhhh, nope. Relay on fender just picks up the solenoid. If he's jumpering at the solenoid, chances are he's a victim of the crispy critter connector with the slide-on spade connector on the solenoid. There should be a wire that's about a 10 gauge wire going to the solenoid from the relay. One going from the battery to the solenoid (large post) that's about a #4 AWG. Solenoid's still there, just operated differently. That eliminates the heavy arcing from the EEC without large diodes involved. The battery will filter off the spikes from the starter current. Fender mounted relay has a built in diode.
Ennyhoo, back on topic, ALL replacement starters come with a threaded stud for the solenoid connection, a short piece of wire with a ring-lug crimped on it, and a butt splice to replace the infamous spade connector. There is a Ford Service Advisory on this no-start problem, but I can't point to it right now. While mine had not quit working yet, all the plastic insulation was melted and bubbly on that connection when I replaced my starter. So, I KNOW it gets a lot hotter than it should. Redesigned connection solves the problem. If he can short the big post to the small spade on the solenoid and start the truck, nothing wrong with the solenoid. Just the connection from the relay to the solenoid, and most probably, at the slide-on spade connector. It may be the relay contacts, but that's a pretty big relay and not much current. A Thomas & Betts RB10-250F connector will probably work there, but you're just post-poning the inevitable. Get a new solenoid if you don't want to replace the whole starter. It should have the threaded stud and patch kit. You'll still have to pull the starter to get the solenoid off, though. While you have it out, at least check the brushes/bearings in it. You may opt for a whole new starter once you see the insides. I'd tear it down before I went to the parts house, and if I didn't like what I saw, reassemble, and just take it with me for a core.
Ennyhoo, back on topic, ALL replacement starters come with a threaded stud for the solenoid connection, a short piece of wire with a ring-lug crimped on it, and a butt splice to replace the infamous spade connector. There is a Ford Service Advisory on this no-start problem, but I can't point to it right now. While mine had not quit working yet, all the plastic insulation was melted and bubbly on that connection when I replaced my starter. So, I KNOW it gets a lot hotter than it should. Redesigned connection solves the problem. If he can short the big post to the small spade on the solenoid and start the truck, nothing wrong with the solenoid. Just the connection from the relay to the solenoid, and most probably, at the slide-on spade connector. It may be the relay contacts, but that's a pretty big relay and not much current. A Thomas & Betts RB10-250F connector will probably work there, but you're just post-poning the inevitable. Get a new solenoid if you don't want to replace the whole starter. It should have the threaded stud and patch kit. You'll still have to pull the starter to get the solenoid off, though. While you have it out, at least check the brushes/bearings in it. You may opt for a whole new starter once you see the insides. I'd tear it down before I went to the parts house, and if I didn't like what I saw, reassemble, and just take it with me for a core.
mr. Charles
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#12
If he is getting it to start by jumping the fender mounted relay which is what he has stated, then it's not the starter, solenoid, or the spade connector.
I would clean and check the connections on the fender mounted relay.
BTW, they did not eliminate the starter mounted solenoid in 1992. I have a 1994 and have both a fender mounted relay along with a starter mounted solenoid.
I would clean and check the connections on the fender mounted relay.
BTW, they did not eliminate the starter mounted solenoid in 1992. I have a 1994 and have both a fender mounted relay along with a starter mounted solenoid.
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