[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 19-Oct-01 AT 00:29 AM (EST)[/font][p]What is better in a 4x4 driven daily with power accesories 429 or 460? Is it possible to buildup this engine for under 4000? including new ignition system, head job, chrome valve covers, headers, intake,water pump, pistons, rods, size of carb, bearings and whatever else needs to be done to block and crank. I am new to engine stuff and would like to learn what all needs to be done to an engine. What kind of stuff am I capable of doing? The most difficult thing I have done is a clutch kit. I would like mostly edelbrock stuff unless other stuff is recomended. I want to be able to use unleaded 92 octane or less fuel.

 

Here's what I would do if I were you....

Block: 429 or 460...doesn't matter unless you can find (and afford) a cj/scj 4-bolt block. Have it bored/honed (standard machine work done) with align bore at a reputible machine shop. New cam Bearings (obviously)

Crank: Standard 460 crank - have it turn and checked at a machine shop. New bearings (obviously)

Rods: New bolts - have the rods resized/checked at the machine shop. New bearings (obviously)

Pistons: Flat tops - depending on what you want to pay - cast are cheap & forged are strong/expensive. You can compromise and get Hypereutectic (I did) and get more strength with a little more cost. New rings (obviously)

Have the ENTIRE rotating assembly balanced!!!!! Many people over look this, but not only will it yield more power, but it will also extend the life of your motor!!!

Cam: I've heard good things about the Extreme 4x4 cams. Brand wise, I would stay away from Edelbrock cams. I've seen a couple of my friends put Edelbrock cams in their motors and the wore out VERY fast. Also, get a double (or true) roller timing set. A high volume oil pump is also suggested.

Heads: I like the DOVE-C heads, but any earlier heads will yield more compression and can be converted to adjustable valvetrain easily.

Intake: I'd go with an Edelbrock Performer 460. I've had good luck with mine, and I know a couple other people that have also.

Carb: Holley all the way!!!!! Holley carbs are the only way to go!

Other than that, other parts should be essentially the same as far as dependability.

TBirdGuy

"Stuck with a m*par, Settle for a ch*vy, Happy with a Ford!!!!"

 

Please tell us how balancing the rotating assembly yields more power. I agree it will increase component life but more power? I don't think so...

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 19-Oct-01 AT 07:38 PM (EST)[/font][p]Quite simple actually,

If you balance the rotating assembly, you will help remove most of the vibrations caused unequaled weights on the crank. Vibration is energy loss, remove the vibration and you lose less energy which can then be better directed to powering the vehicle. I didn't say that the increase was 10 - 20 horse or anything, probably only like 5 (if your lucky). It's only logic.

TBirdGuy

"Stuck with a m*par, Settle for a ch*vy, Happy with a Ford!!!!"

 

Yes it is quite simple...quite simply wrong. Balancing has nothing to do with horsepower gain. I'm not saying that balancing your engine isn't a good thing but don't expect any more horses from it. It's a good way to make your engine last longer but it won't make it any faster.

 

Yeah well, believe what you want. Don't matter to me, the absolute logic behind that is simple....you don't want to look at the basics of it, oh well.

TBirdGuy

"Stuck with a m*par, Settle for a ch*vy, Happy with a Ford!!!!"

 

It's not belief, it's fact. Go tell any engine builder that you want to have your engine balanced because it makes more horsepower and he'll either laugh in your face or say "Yes sir, you bet...it's your money" and then go laugh behind your back. The amount of horsepower lost in engine vibration is not even measurable on a dyno.

The higher RPMs you turn the more critical balancing becomes. Racing engines that make 700 horsepower up in the 6K-9K range need to be balanced extremely carefully. Do they make that power because they're balanced?...NO, will they tear themselves apart if they're not balanced correctly?...YES.

 

I'd go with the 460 just because you get a little more torque with the extra cubic inches, important in a 5000lb or more 4x4.

You didn't state if you're starting with a 429/460 and/or what it would be going into or buying everything from scratch. If from scratch and you're fairly new to wrenching, I suggest you take a look at PAW's Catalog (no affiliation), where very nice 460 performance longblocks with primo parts are available for $2000. I've priced out having a local machine shop do the work and my buying parts and there isn't much difference other than not having to haul parts back and forth to the machine shop. The catalog is a great wishbook for any gearhead.

Then buy a junk 429/460 for the stock bolt-ons, $100-300 or, if you already have one, use that. Edlebrock Manifold and carb - $500, water pump $90, ignition $300, headers $200 and a few hundred for miscellaneous necessities such as belts, fuel lines, linkage, wiring and such should get you there for around $4000.

 

I will probably be going with the 460. I will be putting it into a 79 f150 4x4. Where can I get a paw catalog? What parts are included with a long block? What is a good compression ratio for pump gas? I can get a460 for free but it isnt together its all sitting on a cart in the back of a shop it has a broken piston. The guy who has it says it probbaly wont have to be bored because it ran so good. Is that possible to not have to bore it? If it has to be bored, then you have to get bigger rings, right? Will Lmc factory motor mounts work ok or are LandL better?

 

When you have an engine balanced what do they do? Do I have to have the pistons,and crank already put together or do they just balance the crank when they turn it.

 

PAW catalog is available for order through their website. Or grab about any auto mag and they usually have ads in there. Get a ford mag, and it will have the ford stuff listed. PAW=Performance Automotive Warehouse. do a search for that and you should find their site.

When you get your engine balanced, you need to take the machine shop guy your whole rotating assembly. Crank, rods, pistons, rings, rod bolts. Then they basically just weigh everything and take out metal on rods and crank counterweights to balance the weight out.


chris
79 F-150 Ranger Lariat, 2wd, RC, LB, 460 (intake, headers, cam), C-6(shift kit).

79 mustang (work in progress...its just slow progress)
98 Chevy 4x4 (work truck)
95 Lexus SC300 (wife's baby)

 

You need the flywheel/flexplate, crankshaft, rods (with bolts & nuts), pistons & pins and harmonic balancer. Rings aren't necessary.