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I need to bypass the neutral safety switch on my 93 Aero 2wd A4LD. There is one plug with 3 red wires and then another plug with like 6. I don't have a hanes or chiltons and really dont want to buy one. Thanks RB
Why do you need to bypass? The neutral start switch is the plug above the shift linkage next to the intermediate band (rear) adjusting screw and nut. The forward plug is for the 3-4 shift and converter clutch solenoids.
Why do you need to bypass? The neutral start switch is the plug above the shift linkage next to the intermediate band (rear) adjusting screw and nut. The forward plug is for the 3-4 shift and converter clutch solenoids.
I put a TK4 speed in and need to wire them together so I also need to find out what the wires on the tranny do. I think the TK4 was available in the 80's Aero.
I'm getting nowhere fast with this. I was missing the Neutral safety switch plug so i had nothing to wire that. I've put an APB out on the plug we will see if I can find it. So i just twisted them together and it now starts. That left me with a red wire a purple/orange and bk/pk wire. I twisted the purple and bk wire together and no lights, so i tried all three wires in every configuration with no luck. I got out a test light and had no power with key on. So I checked the fuse block and the fuse had no power on either side. So what gives? I got to thinking after I gave up that the headlights are not plugged in but I can't see why that would make a difference. Any thoughts? RB
Here, through the wonders of PMView & PhotoShop, is a concatenated set of wiring diagram fragments from the 1993 Ford Aerostar CD. Follow the red line from battery to bulbs.
Here, through the wonders of PMView & PhotoShop, is a concatenated set of wiring diagram fragments from the 1993 Ford Aerostar CD. Follow the red line from battery to bulbs.
(click on image for full-size)
Wow thanks for taking the time. However I can't read any of the words but it looks like it travels through a relay before going to the fuse block so i'll switch some relays around. Thanks RB
No, current does not flow through any relay on the way to the backup lamps.
If you have a modern browser, when you click on the thumbnail image above, the full-sized image will be resized to fit your browser, but there is still too much detail squished down to read. Then click on the image again and (if you are using a modern browser), it will zoom in.
I just realized that the image above shows the same fuse twice, so i just re-did the red line to try to indicate where Ford shows the same fuse twice.
Current flows through a black fusible link, through splice S268, the Ign. switch, then the fuse panel. If you have no voltage at the fuse, the most likely place to look would be that black fusible link (there are at least two black fusible links, so check them both: at the starter solenoid behind the battery), followed by the Ign. switch.
There is no relay involved, so swapping them around is a waste of time.
No, current does not flow through any relay on the way to the backup lamps.
If you have a modern browser, when you click on the thumbnail image above, the full-sized image will be resized to fit your browser, but there is still too much detail squished down to read. Then click on the image again and (if you are using a modern browser), it will zoom in.
I just realized that the image above shows the same fuse twice, so i just re-did the red line to try to indicate where Ford shows the same fuse twice.
Current flows through a black fusible link, through splice S268, the Ign. switch, then the fuse panel. If you have no voltage at the fuse, the most likely place to look would be that black fusible link (there are at least two black fusible links, so check them both: at the starter solenoid behind the battery), followed by the Ign. switch.
There is no relay involved, so swapping them around is a waste of time.
Thanks. I'm going to pick it up and bring it home tomorrow or Monday and then I'll be able to work on it again. I'ts over to a friends getting a new bumper built right now. RB
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