On the fly 4WD, not working. Vacuum/Workaround??
#31
02-05-2008, 09:10 AM
Sounds exactly like what is going on with mine right now. I suspect a vacuum leak combined with cold temp gunk is just to much for the system.
I just ordered parts from the Powerstrokeshop.com for this per these instructions:
http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/nblube.html
I just ordered parts from the Powerstrokeshop.com for this per these instructions:
http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/nblube.html
#32
03-13-2008, 08:49 AM
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#33
03-13-2008, 10:16 AM
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<TABLE cellPadding=5 width="80%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD align=left width="20%">
</TD><TD align=left colSpan=2>Parts that I used to perform the service
Anytime that the sealed bearing hubs are pulled from the knuckle joint, you will need to replace the yellow vacuum o-rings on the back side of the hub. The failure of these seals to create a tight vacuum within the hub is the most common reason for failure of the autolock hubs to engage 4x4 from the dash control. Vacuum leaks at this seal can also cause malfunctions of the heating system vents. You will need 2 of these o-rings. Ford part # F81Z-4A322-AA
</TD></TR><TR><TD align=left width="20%">
</TD><TD align=left colSpan=2>The autolock hub also has an o-ring on the flange where it seats into the sealed bearing hub cavity. This o-ring also provides part of the vacuum seal necessary for proper operation of the autolock hubs. The good news is that Ford enclosed two o-rings but only 1 clip in this package. The explanation on the packaging contents states: "Retaining clip for hub lock retention to wheel hub; O-Ring for testing hub lock; O-Ring for final installation of hub lock into wheel end"
If you feel you have at least 1 clip in very good condition, both o-rings are identical so you should only need 1 kit. Ford part # 4C3Z-1K106-AA
</TD></TR><TR><TD align=left width="20%">
</TD><TD align=left colSpan=2>If your undercarriage is showing excessive corrosion, you may need to replace the studs that fasten the sealed hub unit to the knuckle frame. Ford's list on these studs is less than $4 per stud. I was lucky and was able to clean the small amount of corrosion from my stud bolts and re-use them. Ford part # F81Z-1107-AA (pack of 4 studs)
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
)
</TD><TD align=left colSpan=2>Parts that I used to perform the serviceAnytime that the sealed bearing hubs are pulled from the knuckle joint, you will need to replace the yellow vacuum o-rings on the back side of the hub. The failure of these seals to create a tight vacuum within the hub is the most common reason for failure of the autolock hubs to engage 4x4 from the dash control. Vacuum leaks at this seal can also cause malfunctions of the heating system vents. You will need 2 of these o-rings. Ford part # F81Z-4A322-AA
</TD></TR><TR><TD align=left width="20%">
)
</TD><TD align=left colSpan=2>The autolock hub also has an o-ring on the flange where it seats into the sealed bearing hub cavity. This o-ring also provides part of the vacuum seal necessary for proper operation of the autolock hubs. The good news is that Ford enclosed two o-rings but only 1 clip in this package. The explanation on the packaging contents states: "Retaining clip for hub lock retention to wheel hub; O-Ring for testing hub lock; O-Ring for final installation of hub lock into wheel end"If you feel you have at least 1 clip in very good condition, both o-rings are identical so you should only need 1 kit. Ford part # 4C3Z-1K106-AA
</TD></TR><TR><TD align=left width="20%">
)
</TD><TD align=left colSpan=2>If your undercarriage is showing excessive corrosion, you may need to replace the studs that fasten the sealed hub unit to the knuckle frame. Ford's list on these studs is less than $4 per stud. I was lucky and was able to clean the small amount of corrosion from my stud bolts and re-use them. Ford part # F81Z-1107-AA (pack of 4 studs)</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
#34
03-13-2008, 10:24 AM
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#35
03-16-2008, 01:51 PM
2003 f250 manual hubs
let me say whatever markings or words (lock - free) have been weathered off the thin handle that turns the hub same goes for the hub case...just got this truck and from having other 150'S and broncos am 100% these are manuals...or at least look like them...now as far as these auto/manual hubs guys are talking about never seen them or heard of them...how would i tell the defferance between them (man or auto/man.)..did the 03 f250 come with both types...i dont have the shift stick but rather the twist dial on the dash for 4x4...(so mabey i do have this esof system) if i have this system why cant i turn them to the 12 oclock position (lock???) my trouble is i cant turn the hubs on eather side for some reason and beleave to be locked in the on position handle pointing to 2 oclock (auto)as 4x4 hi and low both engage and desingage from the dash...dont want to take these things apart so any ideas...dont think its a good idea to put some plyers on that hub handle and try to force them...any thoughts...thanks
#36
03-16-2008, 02:52 PM
You can look on the inside of the hub and see if you have an vacuum line running from the fire well to a barbed nipple in the hub. You can us a pair of plyers and sometimes it works. I had no choice when in deep sand, mine decided to stop working and I was about to get stuck. I did break the plastic turn **** and made my decision to easier to do this:
#37
12-04-2008, 03:38 PM
#38
12-04-2008, 03:45 PM
What do you mean by 'won't go into lock'? The 4X4 light indicates if the transfer case has engaged drive to the front axle. If your front wheels are not getting driven when the 4X4 light is on, it may be the locking hubs that are not locking.
#39
12-05-2008, 02:01 PM
Thanks for the reply FTN. I found the vacuum leak and repaired it (right front wheel ) thanks to this forum. Didn't try lo lock as I also found the axle universal bad. Changing that today. Is it safe to say that lo lock will not ingage unless the hubs lock in. I will try it later but when I tryed it the first time the light came on but it didn't give me the gear reduction?
#40
12-05-2008, 02:10 PM
No, your transfer case should lock regardless of what your hubs are doing. You will know when your TC shift to low, won't change gears for one thing.
#41
12-05-2008, 02:32 PM
Thanks for the reply FTN. I found the vacuum leak and repaired it (right front wheel ) thanks to this forum. Didn't try lo lock as I also found the axle universal bad. Changing that today. Is it safe to say that lo lock will not ingage unless the hubs lock in. I will try it later but when I tryed it the first time the light came on but it didn't give me the gear reduction?
#42
12-05-2008, 02:40 PM
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What do you mean won't change gears? My shifts through all gears in low lock. It is just greatly reduced to a lower range and shifts much quicker.
#43
12-05-2008, 04:38 PM
Thanks for the reply FTN. I found the vacuum leak and repaired it (right front wheel ) thanks to this forum. Didn't try lo lock as I also found the axle universal bad. Changing that today. Is it safe to say that lo lock will not ingage unless the hubs lock in. I will try it later but when I tryed it the first time the light came on but it didn't give me the gear reduction?
Ditto what Rick said about being in Neutral with your foot on the brake before switching to 4X4 Low. The transfer case will not shift in otherwise. You will hear a clunk when the transfer case shifts into the low range. There should be a light on your dash next to '4X4' that says 'Low Range' that lights up also.
#44
12-06-2008, 11:53 PM
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